C5 Front brakes on rear question
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
C5 Front brakes on rear question
I have the LG/Wilwoods on the front and would like to possibly move my old C5 fronts to the rear. I have the Rippe big master cylinder so I could adjust bias. I know some guys have done this, but is it a big deal to do? Parking brake is no issue for me as it doesn't work now. Just wanted to know if a special bracket was need to mount them or is it just bolt them up and go. Anything else I need to know?
Thanks
Tim
Thanks
Tim
#2
Burning Brakes
Allmost bolt up..Use the bracket for the fronts. I cut away the backing plate for parking brake for better cooling. I think the rotor will fit without cutting it away but it wont breathe. Other than that its a bolt on..
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
#6
Former Vendor
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
So Randy are you saying the DRM master cylinder won't give enough adjustment, or is this something in addition to your master I would need.
Tim
Tim
#9
Former Vendor
Let me know if you have a valve or not.
Randy
#10
Drifting
Note that these bias adjusters don't do what you think they do. I.e: they are not a replacement for a dual master setup like David used. They'll push the exact same amount of fluid as as system without the adjuster, until the adjustment point is reached, then it will attenuate the pressure to the rear.
What that means is with the initial pedal push, your rears are going to get the same bite as without the adjuster, until the pressure builds up (meaning your foot applies more pressure).
Size your calipers correctly, you'll be better off.
What that means is with the initial pedal push, your rears are going to get the same bite as without the adjuster, until the pressure builds up (meaning your foot applies more pressure).
Size your calipers correctly, you'll be better off.
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
Randy, I do have the adjustment **** on my unit.
I am doing DE mostly but have been braking deeper lately, so I thought this might be a good step up. Hey I don't want to upset the whole car but I am just looking for help and opinons from the fellow Corvette racers and HPDE guys. I doubt I will ever go W2W so if this is going to mess the whole set up maybe I will just stick with the OEM rears. I just seem to crack a lot of rear rotors more than the fronts.
Thanks for all the info so far.
Tim
I am doing DE mostly but have been braking deeper lately, so I thought this might be a good step up. Hey I don't want to upset the whole car but I am just looking for help and opinons from the fellow Corvette racers and HPDE guys. I doubt I will ever go W2W so if this is going to mess the whole set up maybe I will just stick with the OEM rears. I just seem to crack a lot of rear rotors more than the fronts.
Thanks for all the info so far.
Tim
#12
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: If you don't weigh in you don't wrestle Road America
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Tim,
You will just have to work on the bias until the braking is just about even, I thought that Randy had some kind of rule of thumb. Something like 3 full turns in is a good place to start with the valve. Actually I would think that Autocrossing would be a good way to sort it out, pull the ABS fuse and see if the braking is even. If the back locks up fist and spins you, no big deal, turn in the **** some more. Keep going until the car feels even. Then put the fuse back in and try it out, if you want Tim, I'll volunteer to help test drive with you.
You will just have to work on the bias until the braking is just about even, I thought that Randy had some kind of rule of thumb. Something like 3 full turns in is a good place to start with the valve. Actually I would think that Autocrossing would be a good way to sort it out, pull the ABS fuse and see if the braking is even. If the back locks up fist and spins you, no big deal, turn in the **** some more. Keep going until the car feels even. Then put the fuse back in and try it out, if you want Tim, I'll volunteer to help test drive with you.
#13
Former Vendor
Tim,
You will just have to work on the bias until the braking is just about even, I thought that Randy had some kind of rule of thumb. Something like 3 full turns in is a good place to start with the valve. Actually I would think that Autocrossing would be a good way to sort it out, pull the ABS fuse and see if the braking is even. If the back locks up fist and spins you, no big deal, turn in the **** some more. Keep going until the car feels even. Then put the fuse back in and try it out, if you want Tim, I'll volunteer to help test drive with you.
You will just have to work on the bias until the braking is just about even, I thought that Randy had some kind of rule of thumb. Something like 3 full turns in is a good place to start with the valve. Actually I would think that Autocrossing would be a good way to sort it out, pull the ABS fuse and see if the braking is even. If the back locks up fist and spins you, no big deal, turn in the **** some more. Keep going until the car feels even. Then put the fuse back in and try it out, if you want Tim, I'll volunteer to help test drive with you.
Randy
#14
Former Vendor
Randy, I do have the adjustment **** on my unit.
I am doing DE mostly but have been braking deeper lately, so I thought this might be a good step up. Hey I don't want to upset the whole car but I am just looking for help and opinons from the fellow Corvette racers and HPDE guys. I doubt I will ever go W2W so if this is going to mess the whole set up maybe I will just stick with the OEM rears. I just seem to crack a lot of rear rotors more than the fronts.
Thanks for all the info so far.
Tim
I am doing DE mostly but have been braking deeper lately, so I thought this might be a good step up. Hey I don't want to upset the whole car but I am just looking for help and opinons from the fellow Corvette racers and HPDE guys. I doubt I will ever go W2W so if this is going to mess the whole set up maybe I will just stick with the OEM rears. I just seem to crack a lot of rear rotors more than the fronts.
Thanks for all the info so far.
Tim
I have about 50 people running front brakes on the rear of their cars. 49 of them haven't hit the wall, so I would say it's been working fine. You will be in the 3-4 turns out range because of the 13 inch setup up front. Most people will run a 14 inch up front and the stock front on the rear (13 inch)
Let me know if you have any questions.
Randy
#15
Former Vendor
Note that these bias adjusters don't do what you think they do. I.e: they are not a replacement for a dual master setup like David used. They'll push the exact same amount of fluid as as system without the adjuster, until the adjustment point is reached, then it will attenuate the pressure to the rear.
What that means is with the initial pedal push, your rears are going to get the same bite as without the adjuster, until the pressure builds up (meaning your foot applies more pressure).
Size your calipers correctly, you'll be better off.
What that means is with the initial pedal push, your rears are going to get the same bite as without the adjuster, until the pressure builds up (meaning your foot applies more pressure).
Size your calipers correctly, you'll be better off.
We have sold our master setup to people with the "sized" calipers and they have had great luck with them. Not just one kit, all of them in the market.
Randy
#16
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info Randy. I think I will test the car out and keep Joel out of it for now
Joel, I am glad to see you will do anything for a friend
Tim
Joel, I am glad to see you will do anything for a friend
Tim
#20
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: If you don't weigh in you don't wrestle Road America
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Actually with the bias screwed all the way in that would make for one hell of a burnout machine.
(Joel looking through the smoke "Hey Tim does that seem like to much forward bias????)
(Joel looking through the smoke "Hey Tim does that seem like to much forward bias????)