STLBLUES

C6 z51 lowered on WCC bolts.
Installed new set up
265-35-18 9.5x18
305-30-19 11x19

Stock tires and wheels removed. Rears look even. Fronts were worn bad to the inside. Never aligned after lowering. 10,000 miles or wear.

Just installed the new set up today. I plan on weekend driving the car and I only do a few parking lot tracks and some drag racing each year. Looking for a spec to tell the shop to use. I want to keep the car lowered. I found one rear side higher than the other so I plan on getting the fender openings the same height before I take it in for alignment. Any suggestions? Thanks Steve

Solofast

1. Do not measure your ride height at the fender openings. Measure ride height at the jacking points. Most folks on this board believe in cornerweighting the car and I do too, but if you aren't that serious you will get acceptable performance if you measure correctly on a FLAT surface.

2. If you aren't interested in maximum performance on the track, you can go with the stock settings, or about 1/2 a degree of negative camber, 1/8 inch of toe in in the front, and zero negative camber and 1/8 of toe in in the back.

When you lowered it you changed both the camber and the toe, and you would expect tire life to be crappy if you didn't realign it.

63Corvette

What are your requirements??????????????? looks or performance? On track your car will push with that tire combination, and on the street the inside of the tires will wear with that alignment.

davidfarmer

You should just have your shop put an OEM alignment in. Their machine will have the OEM specs.

I would have them lean towards the more negative end of the camber scale for performance, but makes sure the keep the toe dialed in to minimize wear ( around 0.1deg out in the front, 0.2deg in for the rear)

STLBLUES

Asking here because I do not have a shop I prefer for front end work. I am going in uneducated and I wanted to be able to give them something to work with. Just looking for stock z51 response. More concerned with even tire wear. It has to stay lowered, if I have to give up something because I lowered it I understand.
Thanks.

2000BSME

I would spend the time and effort to do a DavidFarmer alignment. Look on his profile, go to his site, and figure it all out. You can do it in about the time that it would take you to go and have it done, you wont spend any money if you have a few pieces of stock angle or square aluminum around that you can cut to size, and a few tools like a level, a fine small measuring device, etc.

I did it, and I am so glad I did. I feel much more competent now, and I don't have to go all over the state trying to find someone who can get my vette on a lift.

Try it.

AU N EGL

Lowered will give up handling. ie too low. Car really should be no lower then 1" from stock front ride height, and then the 1/2" to 3?8" rake for the back

for tire wear and handling

front
camber: -0.7 to -0.5
caster: max but equal
toe: 0.1* OUT

rear
camber: -0.5*
toe 0.2* IN

for handling but still streetable

front
camber: -1.0* to -1.5*
caster: max but equal
toe: 0.1* OUT

rear
Camber: -1.0*
toe 0.2* IN

AU N EGL

Something else about lowered cars, not sure if it was mentined, is that under hard cornering, the edge of the outside front corner fender WILL rub on the tire.

this could cut the tire down and build up rubber if not rub the fender lip off.