sothpaw2

Hi,

I had a lot of fun last weekend at a DE w/Schattenbaum PCA up at Summit. I really recommend them.

Question though: As in title, how long are these Nitto R-II supposed to last? This weekend was the 9th and 10th day (so 5th event if all were 2 day). The fronts seemed to plow the whole event and were running the 38 psi hot (front) 34 psi (rear) recommended temps--sometimes a little less. I'm guessing the fronts are cycled out--but how about the rears? I didn't seem to have any issues there--other then wear.

...A reason I'm not sure about the plowing is that afterward my alignment was way off. I know it wasn't like that when I started. But I'm not sure how much the off alignment may have contributed, if it was off and I didn't see it in the wheel on day #1 (I noticed the wheel by day #2 but nothing could be done about it). I could have hit the T10 apex curbing on the left...I was using all the track!

Thanks,

Andy

batchman

I'm an autocross guy, and my R-2 experience is on a Mustang so take this for what it's worth.

I've run a few of them right down to nothing, they don't seem to "heat cycle out" like a Hoosier or Kumho. I used them for intermediate rain or cold conditions - they seemed to deal with that better than the slicks.

I believe your push is not the tire - check the alignment.

GL,
- Jeff

JiminVirginia

I agree. The R-II isn't a soft enough compound to heat cycle. Same with the Toyo R888, Nitto NT01, and tires like it.

Cheers,

Jim

L98Terror

Never

Zenak

Ask JimZ06 he runs these often on stock sized Z06 Rims and loves them. So does AlwaysInBoost on the forum.

They are great tires for the $$$. And don't compare Autocross use to road course use. Not even apples and oranges. Its more like Apples and liverworst in how similar they are for usage and abuse.

joemoia

My experience with R2's is that the fronts went away after 4-5 trackdays (15-20 sessions). I just replaced all 4 with a new set.

sothpaw2

The alignment was found to be totally off after the event and you could feel it in the steering wheel, but I know it wasn't that way when I went out. The push was there the whole time though.

So that's why my question--I'll fix the alignment but I'm not sure what came first, chicken or egg.

When you say you ran them to nothing--cord? My 1 rear has just barely noticable tread pattern from center out to the outer tread block on 1 side. The outer tread blocks are good. The other tire is better with tread pattern clear all across.

How close is that more worn section to cord? I'd like to run them 2 more days then toss--what do you think?

Thanks,

Andy

longdaddy

any tire will lose traction with heat cycles. autocrossing will not put any real heat into the tires.

sothpaw2

These get very hot for sure. You should see all the stuff they pick up off the track.

Can anyone educate me about the tread blocks vs carcass of the tire? If you have worn out the tread block, is the stuff below that but before the cords still the same durometer rubber as what was on the tread block?? I thought there was a "carcass" somewhere that had dramatically less traction.

JimbeauZ06

I counted 24+ sessions/cycles on my last set and they still weren't corded, but their grip "window" was really narrow so I moved to my new set. I keep doing the math in my head and I know R6s are faster but the economics just don't make sense to me yet. Probably b/c I've never partaken of the R6, right?

sothpaw2

Mine probably had a bit more than that when I started my event. Maybe that's why the pushed? My alignment was bad by the end but I'm thinking I hit the exit gators for T10 too many times since the tires pushed so bad and I wouldn't back off on entry speed.

What pressures did you run? I had read 38/34psi F/R HOT on here and I did that the 2nd day, first day maybe it was 36/32 hot. The tires, especially fronts, showed were consistent w/over inflation.

Once the tread is gone, how close is the cord? My fronts have no discernable tread in the middle--they look smooth. 1 area on a rear tire has the "ghost" lines of water channels left--so I not much left of the tread block but still something.

Andy

Zenak

once the tread is completely gone and they look like slicks, dont expect to make it through a 2 day weekend. :-) 1 full day of pushing them hard. tops.

JimbeauZ06

I usually ballpark starting temps based on outdoor temps, using 28lbs for a 65-75 degree day and 30lbs if it's cooler. In Daytona last year (95 degrees) I started at 24 front 26 rear and bled off as the day got hotter. I adjust looking to keep hot temps in the 38lb range front. I wouldn't want rears below 34lbs hot. Someone else may have a more scientific recommendation, mine is based mainly on feel. I also learned last weekend at Pocono that there's a high degree of variability, 2 to 3lbs, even between quality pressure gauges, so all of these numbers are subjective anyway.

I've never run a set to the cords. I ususally stop about where you are now due to loss of grip rather than wear.

beerkat

I just got back from three days at Roebling my front left looks like a slick but i still have good tread on the right. I still like the tire even if I only have three track weekends on them.

JimbeauZ06

I did the same thing to my LF at Pocono. Should have swapped sides.
I'll flip 'em for the next event t obalance the wear. Say "hi" to Spidey and the gang next time you're at RRR.

beerkat

I wont see spidey and crew untill I see them at CMP.