Corey_68

I'm looking at a set of CCW classics and what is the difference between the street and race version with the street version being more expensive?

Thanks

AU N EGL

Street version



Track version



Street version is NOT drilled for lightness, has center caps. cadnium bolts

track version drilled for lightness, no center caps and has steel inserts for stud holes, grade 8 bolts

My street version have steel inserts in the stud holes.

IIRC track versions drilling for lightness is an option now as well as shot pean and anodizing

Corey_68

So theoretically the race version can be used for the street provided you want to run a dustcover?? Can they be used for various bolt patterns?

Thanks

AU N EGL

Race version will not accept the center cap. The center cap is almost 1 pound by itself

The stud holes and holes drilled for lightness between the stud holes are not interchangeable.

Only the stud holes have the steel sleeve.

AU N EGL

rear close up

Corey_68

Thanks, I take it they are designed to not allow the center cap. Could a good machine shop fab up a pair or is it just not possible? Just hate to buy to set of rims.

Corey_68

I see some have managed to run a center cap looks are subjective of course.

bobmoore2

When I look closely at that photo, it looks like the chrome center cap is attached to the hub of the car, not to the wheel.

Your '68 has a cap on the hub to keep the grease clean and inside the hub bearing, right? Can't you put a chrome cap on in place of the black painted one - same shape, different color?

AU N EGL

Just ask John. He might be able to drill out a street set so you can still use the center cap.

thehammer69

I Ordered a set of Race Classics this week. John told me the price difference between the two is basically from the ARP fasteners that the street version use because they cost more.

Also, street versions are now getting a slightly thicker Aluminum barrel. This is a recent change. This will increase weight on those wheels.

froggy47

I have seen the track version break on a GT3. Check with ccw about their warranty.

SIK02SS

Which ones are you looking at Corey? These for the Stingray?

AU N EGL

That is with any race wheel. One needs to check for cracks all the time.

That is also why I like the black. Clean them off and look for small cracks.

Any race wheel does have a finite life time.

Next set most likley will be the C2K as these will fit over a BBK set up.
http://www.ccwheel.com/files/wheelpr...lay.php?id=C2K

davidfarmer

I disagree with that remark.....

Corey_68

Yeah it be for the '68, looking at getting more involved in road racing/events at Texas Motor speedway. The ralleys while look good are my really only drawback as well as modern rubber. Figured I can can kill two birds with one stone.

gkmccready

C2K looks a lot like the C140s I have and while they're a solid track wheel, they're mostly made for the street. If I had it to do again I'd go with a C14 or C10 because they are lighter wheels; you can see how much less material they have...

SIK02SS

Keep us updated how it's going

OKsweetrides

Difference is the fasteners.

I agree with AU N EGL... if you use aluminum or any other fatigue limited metal, it will fail given enough cycles (thermal and load). Some designs last longer than others though.

davidfarmer

Oh I agree that aluminum will fatigue eventually, but I've only seen one company make wheels that crack after 6 events...........

Would you expect OEM aluminum wheels to crack in a season?

eogel

If you can or do use a spacer, CCW can machine a spacer with a center cap as an integral part to fit whatever the opening is. Even a thin spacer would provide the opportunity to have a center cap, if that is what you want.