Rotors & Pads bedding Q's
#1
Racer
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Rotors & Pads bedding Q's
Hello all,
I have a 08 C6 Z51 Corvette equipped with PFADT Coilovers, stock rotors, brake pads & 26K miles. Only have 3 days of seat time.
Brake pads need replacing & I am replacing them this week with new ones.
After lots of searching & research, went ahead & bought some XP10's & XP8's to run on the track & Carbotech Bobcats to run on the street, but will be using the same rotors for both track & street.
Just got my rotors turned & I am in the process of installing the bobcats, have a track day coming up on 26 & 27th, thinking about switching to XP10's & XP8's on either 18th/ 19th & give them a week of slight bed in time.
What would be the best bed in & switch process(between street & track pads), I typically go to a track day atleast once in a month.
BTW mine is a daily driver, 40 miles a day with atleast 5 -10 miles of stop & go traffic.
I have a 08 C6 Z51 Corvette equipped with PFADT Coilovers, stock rotors, brake pads & 26K miles. Only have 3 days of seat time.
Brake pads need replacing & I am replacing them this week with new ones.
After lots of searching & research, went ahead & bought some XP10's & XP8's to run on the track & Carbotech Bobcats to run on the street, but will be using the same rotors for both track & street.
Just got my rotors turned & I am in the process of installing the bobcats, have a track day coming up on 26 & 27th, thinking about switching to XP10's & XP8's on either 18th/ 19th & give them a week of slight bed in time.
What would be the best bed in & switch process(between street & track pads), I typically go to a track day atleast once in a month.
BTW mine is a daily driver, 40 miles a day with atleast 5 -10 miles of stop & go traffic.
#2
Drifting
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First, NEVER have rotors used at the track turned!!! You do not need to buy the actual OEM rotors. Just get solid rotors from NAPA or Rock Auto.
You can get one set to run with the track pads and have stock to run on the street.
Remember, your brakes slow your tires down buy its your tires that actually stop the car. They should work in harmony. XP 10's with stock runflat tires is overkill. Use the Bobcats for both. I did for several events.
Bob
You can get one set to run with the track pads and have stock to run on the street.
Remember, your brakes slow your tires down buy its your tires that actually stop the car. They should work in harmony. XP 10's with stock runflat tires is overkill. Use the Bobcats for both. I did for several events.
Bob
#3
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Thanks for the info..
I did miss out giving some crucial info..
I am running Nitto Invo's stock C6 sizes on the street, but on the track I am running some shaved Toyo R888 in the following sizes 275/35/zr18 and 305/35/zr18.
Why is it that track rotors shouldnt be turned? Sorry I am a newbie just trying to find out info. Does this mean that I cant use the rotors that I got turned for the track anymore?
Thank again..appreciate your valuable feedback..
I did miss out giving some crucial info..
I am running Nitto Invo's stock C6 sizes on the street, but on the track I am running some shaved Toyo R888 in the following sizes 275/35/zr18 and 305/35/zr18.
Why is it that track rotors shouldnt be turned? Sorry I am a newbie just trying to find out info. Does this mean that I cant use the rotors that I got turned for the track anymore?
Thank again..appreciate your valuable feedback..
#4
when the rotors are turned you are removing the material from them. less material - smaller buffer to absorb the heat before it starts disintegrating your pads and boiling your fluid. not to mention the rotors themselves.
this, by the way (in my opinion) is the main reason to run track/race pads - they will resist heat much better while retaining the torque. actual "bite"/"torque", in my opinion, is less important - you can always push pedal harder to reach your tires' limits under braking.
running a pad rated at 900 degrees when your rotors may be heating up to over a 1000 is not a good idea, no matter how new or experienced you are. you may have done ok in your events but it's not a good reason to give bad advice.
if you must run a pad that manufacturer specifically warns against using on the track, at least get some temperature paint for your rotors and make sure you are not overheating it.
this, by the way (in my opinion) is the main reason to run track/race pads - they will resist heat much better while retaining the torque. actual "bite"/"torque", in my opinion, is less important - you can always push pedal harder to reach your tires' limits under braking.
Remember, your brakes slow your tires down buy its your tires that actually stop the car. They should work in harmony. XP 10's with stock runflat tires is overkill. Use the Bobcats for both. I did for several events.
if you must run a pad that manufacturer specifically warns against using on the track, at least get some temperature paint for your rotors and make sure you are not overheating it.
#5
Burning Brakes
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I tried running Bobcats on my Callaway Grand Sport SC606 at a single HPDE day at Summit Point WV. Used up 80% of the front pads over a total of eight 20 minute runs.
A few key points:
This was my first HPDE event so no way I was pushing the car anywhere near the limits.
The pads were bedded at the factory (great option by the way as it save track time)
....
So IMHO listen to what Carbotech says ... DO NOT RUN BOBCAT PADS AT THE TRACK !!
I now have a set of rotors and pads for the track and the OEM set for the street. Change before I drive to the track and then again when I get home.
A few key points:
This was my first HPDE event so no way I was pushing the car anywhere near the limits.
The pads were bedded at the factory (great option by the way as it save track time)
....
So IMHO listen to what Carbotech says ... DO NOT RUN BOBCAT PADS AT THE TRACK !!
I now have a set of rotors and pads for the track and the OEM set for the street. Change before I drive to the track and then again when I get home.
#6
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#7
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Great info guys keep it coming..
Wonderful article "rfn026", just finished reading page 1, will continue..
I think based on the adivise above its not good to run the turned stock rotors anymore, if so, what are my best alternatives, should I get some Stock Z51 rotors? or are there other cheap much better alternatives..
BTW I also have some spare Z51 fronts bought of a forum member who was using them only for track, can I use them for the track & just get some new Z51 rear's?
Wondering what works the best, BTW I am on a budget, for this month reached the max allocated budget , but dont want to cheap out on the most crucial parts on the car, so will get something pretty soon for the upcoming trackday..so let me know guys..
Thanks a bunch again for the very detailed advises..
Wonderful article "rfn026", just finished reading page 1, will continue..
I think based on the adivise above its not good to run the turned stock rotors anymore, if so, what are my best alternatives, should I get some Stock Z51 rotors? or are there other cheap much better alternatives..
BTW I also have some spare Z51 fronts bought of a forum member who was using them only for track, can I use them for the track & just get some new Z51 rear's?
Wondering what works the best, BTW I am on a budget, for this month reached the max allocated budget , but dont want to cheap out on the most crucial parts on the car, so will get something pretty soon for the upcoming trackday..so let me know guys..
Thanks a bunch again for the very detailed advises..
#9
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Track Setup
Just a rookie here.
Competition Mode only ... saved my butt a couple of times already but allows a little more driver control (learning).
DBA4000 rotors and XP10/8 pads. Have two extra sets of rear pads so I can put on a fresh set for long weekends (have a 3 day event coming up). Put on the used set for a single day event of four 20 min sessions.
At Summit Point you do use up a fair amount of the brakes as there are 3 hard braking segments from 145+, 110+, 90+.
Competition Mode only ... saved my butt a couple of times already but allows a little more driver control (learning).
DBA4000 rotors and XP10/8 pads. Have two extra sets of rear pads so I can put on a fresh set for long weekends (have a 3 day event coming up). Put on the used set for a single day event of four 20 min sessions.
At Summit Point you do use up a fair amount of the brakes as there are 3 hard braking segments from 145+, 110+, 90+.
#10
Competition mode is something you should probably ween yourself off of. It is VERY intrusive once you start getting your way around the track good, and it positively destroys the rear brake pads.
#11
Just a rookie here.
Competition Mode only ... saved my butt a couple of times already but allows a little more driver control (learning).
DBA4000 rotors and XP10/8 pads. Have two extra sets of rear pads so I can put on a fresh set for long weekends (have a 3 day event coming up). Put on the used set for a single day event of four 20 min sessions.
At Summit Point you do use up a fair amount of the brakes as there are 3 hard braking segments from 145+, 110+, 90+.
Competition Mode only ... saved my butt a couple of times already but allows a little more driver control (learning).
DBA4000 rotors and XP10/8 pads. Have two extra sets of rear pads so I can put on a fresh set for long weekends (have a 3 day event coming up). Put on the used set for a single day event of four 20 min sessions.
At Summit Point you do use up a fair amount of the brakes as there are 3 hard braking segments from 145+, 110+, 90+.
#12
Supporting Vendor
Here's a video / article I did on Bed-in a while back: http://www.essexparts.com/learning-center/Bed-in
I'm working on a followup video right now, which addresses this exact topic...how to switch between street and race friction. Click the link below to read the text portion. I'll be adding the video soon...I hope.
http://www.essexparts.com/learning-c.../swapping_pads
If you find this info helpful, please leave a comment on our site. Thanks!
I'm working on a followup video right now, which addresses this exact topic...how to switch between street and race friction. Click the link below to read the text portion. I'll be adding the video soon...I hope.
http://www.essexparts.com/learning-c.../swapping_pads
If you find this info helpful, please leave a comment on our site. Thanks!
#13
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Instructor suggested me to run with all controls off , I wanted to anyway, as the controls kept me safe all the time & the track no matter where I was turning or how hard I was on the brakes & I wasn't really concentrating on the weight shifts etc..Slowly went from all controls ON to Competition mode & this event we are planning to run with all OFF. Lets see how that goes
Back to rotors, what should I get for track only rotors, should I go with stock Z51, AC Delco(nice price), NAPA(Damn cheap, wondering about temps), Baer(expensive compared to others), DB4000's(expensive compared to others)...
Back to rotors, what should I get for track only rotors, should I go with stock Z51, AC Delco(nice price), NAPA(Damn cheap, wondering about temps), Baer(expensive compared to others), DB4000's(expensive compared to others)...
#14
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Here's a video / article I did on Bed-in a while back: http://www.essexparts.com/learning-center/Bed-in
I'm working on a followup video right now, which addresses this exact topic...how to switch between street and race friction. Click the link below to read the text portion. I'll be adding the video soon...I hope.
http://www.essexparts.com/learning-c.../swapping_pads
If you find this info helpful, please leave a comment on our site. Thanks!
I'm working on a followup video right now, which addresses this exact topic...how to switch between street and race friction. Click the link below to read the text portion. I'll be adding the video soon...I hope.
http://www.essexparts.com/learning-c.../swapping_pads
If you find this info helpful, please leave a comment on our site. Thanks!
#16
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
when the rotors are turned you are removing the material from them. less material - smaller buffer to absorb the heat before it starts disintegrating your pads and boiling your fluid. not to mention the rotors themselves.
this, by the way (in my opinion) is the main reason to run track/race pads - they will resist heat much better while retaining the torque. actual "bite"/"torque", in my opinion, is less important - you can always push pedal harder to reach your tires' limits under braking.
running a pad rated at 900 degrees when your rotors may be heating up to over a 1000 is not a good idea, no matter how new or experienced you are. you may have done ok in your events but it's not a good reason to give bad advice.
if you must run a pad that manufacturer specifically warns against using on the track, at least get some temperature paint for your rotors and make sure you are not overheating it.
this, by the way (in my opinion) is the main reason to run track/race pads - they will resist heat much better while retaining the torque. actual "bite"/"torque", in my opinion, is less important - you can always push pedal harder to reach your tires' limits under braking.
running a pad rated at 900 degrees when your rotors may be heating up to over a 1000 is not a good idea, no matter how new or experienced you are. you may have done ok in your events but it's not a good reason to give bad advice.
if you must run a pad that manufacturer specifically warns against using on the track, at least get some temperature paint for your rotors and make sure you are not overheating it.
#17
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Thanks Adam, looks like I will be getting the DBA 4000's( a bit pricey but heard, they are great quality rotors, both street & track Carbotech pads are compatible with the rotors, so swapping wont be necessary)
#19
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I've cracked a bunch of rotors over the years. I seem to be having good luck with the NAPA rotors. I'm using the Wilwood A pads. I know D.J. Racing uses stock C6 rotors and they've had good luck with them.
Richard Newton
Speed TV
Richard Newton
Speed TV
Thanks for all the advise everyone..