Everett Ogilvie

OK, I got my new caster/camber gauge (the bubble/vial type) and it came with the magnetic adaptor. How the heck does one attach a magnetic gauge to an aluminum wheel..... it says to attach it to the spindle, but the adaptor will not fit through the wheel center hole to contact the spindle.

dvandentop

interested to know also

NMsharkracer

Everett,
I just had a thought after our talk Saturday. If you take off the front wheels and support your suspension at or near the lower ball joint on jack stands, the spindles would be at their loaded position and you could do the +/- 20* rotation without slip plates. Someone want to tell me if I'm in error?

Poor-sha

I went through the same thing. I ended up buying the tripod mount that you hold against the wheel and use that instead (I assume it's a Longacre?).

Everett Ogilvie

Will my gauge work with the tripod mount, or would I need a whole new gauge?

Jack - I also wondered about removing the wheels/tires and letting the rotors sit on wood blocks so the suspension is compressed to the normal ride height. I suppose that might work for the camber, but for checking caster you need to turn the wheels back and forth.

Surely someone has figured out a way to make the magnetic adaptors work?

Rob31

I have a steel gear that I use as a spacer for camber . Caster , I take a rubber strap (bungee) attach each end to a spoke in the wheel.
I want to get a set of car dollies,so I can just bounce the car instead of rolling back and forth to settle the alignent change...anyone try this?
Those Snap-On turntable plates are pricey

trackboss

If the wheels allow it, stick it to the rotor. Otherwise its not really useful. Get yourself a 2x2 length of square tubing long enough to get to either the rim edges or the tire sidewalls. Place the guage against that for your readings. I've got just about every attachment gizmo commonly sold and found that to be the best.

Poor-sha

If it's the Longacre digital one then you can buy just the tripod. The guage just has a threaded hole in it that should work with either.

I thought about a spacer - ideally something machined to the right size with the bolt coming out of it perfectly centered to screw the guage on. If someone comes out with something I'll buy one.

Everett Ogilvie

Speaking of adaptors, all the sellers of these gauges list a GM adaptor, stating it is 3/4-20. I don't think our spindles are 3/4-20......, so I wonder what this GM adaptor is?

davidfarmer

this is why I came up with my method.....

It is very very hard to settle the suspension, especially the front, fully with the wheels off. There is lateral 'stiction' in the front spring/control arm junction, and it takes a lot of jiggling to get it fully settled.

A camber gauge/angle gauge that you simply hold against the wheel is quicker and easier for me personally

John Shiels

http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...d=1301&catid=5 I have something like this and I believe it was Longacre but I don't remember it exactly like this. I have not seen it in a while.

Poor-sha

Yup - that's what I use.

NMsharkracer

Everett, If you support on the ball joint then your spindle will turn freely. You'll need to maintain the approximate ride height.

JDIllon

I use a 24" digital level from Sears and it works great and is dead accurate, and it has a laser in it also. Reads in 10ths of a degree and costs about $70.00 JD

dvandentop

got the same one except shorter version

Everett Ogilvie

Thanks for all the replies!

Like trackboss suggested, one of my sets of wheels allows me to push the adaptor/gauge through the open spokes and stick it to the rotor, and it appears that will give a good solid mount and accurate readings. My track wheels won't let the gauge fit through, but I guess it does not matter what wheels are on the car when I measure.

P.S look out, cause next time I go to Track Attack I will have -8 degrees front and -3 degrees rear!

fatbillybob

I have thought about making a plate to bolt to the hub then ride on ball bearings to remove stichion. Then you could reach all the adjustment points and do suspensions really fast. I even thought about welding something to old brake rotors just to save me the fab time.

thehammer69

That 24" Digital Laser level at Sears is on sale this week for $40. Bought one Sunday to do my alignment.

trackboss

Many high end race teams build really trick hub stands that bolt in place of the wheel and make everything super easy including the actual adjustments.
Here are two that are really nice for off the shelf pieces. There are some things I wish they would make better, but for the most part they shold be a huge time saver.
http://mittlerbros.com/accu-lign.php
http://www.hubstands.com/

Gordy M

I filed off about 1/32" at each of the three magnet and about 1/3" high. These would then fit inside the Z06 wheels. On the standard C5 wheels, they never did hit.