Part#??????????
#2
Safety Car
Ten seconds on wilwood.com:
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...model=Corvette
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...emno=140-10638
But you should just call a dealer and ask to be sure...
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...model=Corvette
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...emno=140-10638
But you should just call a dealer and ask to be sure...
#3
Yes, I found the same info on the website. Here is the problem. The Rotors measure 13 inches and I use 18 inch wheels. The website shows 14 inch Rotors for 18 inch wheels. And calling Wilwood was no help. They told me to look at the Rotor and the Part number is somewhere on it. But I dont have the car in my possession right now and I am trying to order spare parts for the track.
#4
Safety Car
Did you look at the second URL I posted? It shows the 13in rotors for the SL4 rear kit:
Rotors: Info / Part Number:
Left Hand - Part No: 160-7598
Right Hand - Part No: 160-7597
Type: GT 48 Curved Vane
Style: GT Slotted
Surface Finish: Plain
Material: Iron
Outside Diameter (In.): 12.88
Width (In.): 1
Vane Count: 48 CV
Design Type: GT
Bedded: No
Dynamically Balanced: Yes
Left Hand - Part No: 160-7598
Right Hand - Part No: 160-7597
Type: GT 48 Curved Vane
Style: GT Slotted
Surface Finish: Plain
Material: Iron
Outside Diameter (In.): 12.88
Width (In.): 1
Vane Count: 48 CV
Design Type: GT
Bedded: No
Dynamically Balanced: Yes
#5
Not to mention the title should include at least some additional information regarding the thread being about brakes, or Wilwood brakes, or something like that. People aren't gonna click on a thread that just asks for a part number and provides no additional information. Pretty sure you lucked out with gkmccready's posts and the information he provided.
#6
Thanks GK. I have been looking at the same information all week. I was hoping to find an alternative Rotor to use, but it seems like I am limited to the Wilwoods only.
Not to mention the title should include at least some additional information regarding the thread being about brakes, or Wilwood brakes, or something like that. People aren't gonna click on a thread that just asks for a part number and provides no additional information. Pretty sure you lucked out with gkmccready's posts and the information he provided.
This is CF , people click on threads with just a > in the title. So I was pretty sure I would get responses.
#7
Safety Car
Anyway. I don't know if anybody makes rings that will fit the Wilwood hats other than Wilwood. But I do know that HRP will build you custom hats if you know the dimensions and then you could use Coleman rings. Or you could look in to the LGM brackets and then potentially run stock offset rotors from any number of vendors.
Or you just stick with the Wilwood "system" as a whole...
#9
not in ac&rr. Have you looked at the front page? there are topics that haven't had a post in two days on page 1 alone. In this section, you're lucky if you get more than one response in a thread.
#10
Drifting
If you need 12.88 in rotors at 1.25 in with aluminum hats I have some new heat treated and slotted Coleman's. These were custom made for a project that I am not going to get to with some SL6R and SL4R Wilwoods.
PM me and I can get you additional details if interested.
If you need additional info on Wilwoods just call Todd at TCE in Phoenix. He is very helpful and a wealth of knowledge.
PM me and I can get you additional details if interested.
If you need additional info on Wilwoods just call Todd at TCE in Phoenix. He is very helpful and a wealth of knowledge.
#11
Former Vendor
Yes and no. You can have them made to your needs by Coleman Racing (supplier to many <of us> in the brake business) but you'll need to give the exact info, not "it's a Wilwood blah, blah, blah". They want OD, eye, flange, bolt circle etc.
Doing that 'might' save you a few bucks but the reality is that most of the castings used for that will not be any better or heavier than the GT Wiwood rotor. Mass is good. What you can achieve however is 'pushing' the OD to whatever size you want; say 13.278" for example and shimming the caliper on stud. Or you can do them at 1.283" thick or whatever so long as the pads fit. YOU SPEC IT, there's no "standard" size.
In the end for simplicity your best to just replace with the part number in use now or convert to 14s with barrel spacer on stud if you want to keep the 18" wheel.
-hope that helps
#12
I can keep the 18 inch wheel with the current setup which I believe is a 13 inch rotor.(12.88) according to WW specs. If I went with 14 inch, then the bracket would have to be brought out at least an inch. Too much work.
I dont "race" the car. But its mainly an HPDE car.
Thanks for the advice.
I dont "race" the car. But its mainly an HPDE car.
Thanks for the advice.
#13
Former Vendor
I can keep the 18 inch wheel with the current setup which I believe is a 13 inch rotor.(12.88) according to WW specs. If I went with 14 inch, then the bracket would have to be brought out at least an inch. Too much work.
I dont "race" the car. But its mainly an HPDE car.
Thanks for the advice.
I dont "race" the car. But its mainly an HPDE car.
Thanks for the advice.
I stand corrected. Been thinking front rotor apps. Pulled up the base part number above in post number 4
This is based upon the 1.00 casting for a rear kit and there are more limited options for this part.
Your choices with the Wilwood factory choices are far more limited. You'd have to move to the custom parts to bump the OD and perhaps some width as well.
Last edited by Todd TCE; 06-24-2010 at 12:41 AM. Reason: REAR kit update
#14
This issue is mainly because I like to have Spare Parts at the track with me. I was hoping to find a nice cheaper alternative to using Wilwood Rotors at the track. But it appears for the REARS, there is no such alternative unless its custom made.
The front Calipers which are SL6R, allow me to use Stock Sized Rotors.
#15
Safety Car
Okay, Todd, I have to ask SL6R and SL4R... can they really use >13in diameter rotors? My SL6R clearer says 13in max diameter, but I'd love to run a 14in rotor for the added mass and putting the clamping further out... I thought it was a special SL6 that added clearance for the 14in and that caliper required using the 7416 pads?
#16
Former Vendor
Okay, Todd, I have to ask SL6R and SL4R... can they really use >13in diameter rotors? My SL6R clearer says 13in max diameter, but I'd love to run a 14in rotor for the added mass and putting the clamping further out... I thought it was a special SL6 that added clearance for the 14in and that caliper required using the 7416 pads?
The 8000 series BSL6r and BSL4r with 16mm pads all fit 14" (and up to 14.6" actually, don't ask) rotors as the bridge is designed for this.
The BSL6r of 6000 and 7000 series with 20mm pads do not. They top out at about 13.3" or the pads begin to overhang the rotor. This includes the Wide Five (narrow outer body) model used on a number of common kits you may know of.
http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/Cali...no=120-6386-RS
Another thought on the above rotor: call Troy at Coleman and convert it to the 21838 casting which will run 1.00 without problems to 13.1" diameter. *No to the above as the caliper moves only on the radius not the diameter. A full half inch may run out of stud but this idea here should not be a problem. I'd have to say that the 1/8" radius is not really going to be a huge change and despite the cost savings probably not worth the effort- I think you said that too! lol
That casting will also allow you to run 1.10" width as will the caliper. But you'll have to have the rotor cut to accept the width change and keep the center line. Counter sink .100 to a dia of 9.25 should do that trick for you. (late, tired, but I think that's right!)
Last edited by Todd TCE; 06-24-2010 at 01:04 AM.
#17
Okay, Todd, I have to ask SL6R and SL4R... can they really use >13in diameter rotors? My SL6R clearer says 13in max diameter, but I'd love to run a 14in rotor for the added mass and putting the clamping further out... I thought it was a special SL6 that added clearance for the 14in and that caliper required using the 7416 pads?
#18
Drifting
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: Dayton, OH
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Okay, Todd, I have to ask SL6R and SL4R... can they really use >13in diameter rotors? My SL6R clearer says 13in max diameter, but I'd love to run a 14in rotor for the added mass and putting the clamping further out... I thought it was a special SL6 that added clearance for the 14in and that caliper required using the 7416 pads?
I use the LG brackets front and rear. It's great because I can just swap rotors front to back and I have to carry less spares
I can run 12.88"(C5 OEM size), 13" and 13.4" (C6-Z51) size rotors with no problem. I haven't tried 14" since I don't have any and don't know any one who runs them. Really not worth the weight penalty, the extra rotating mass and not worth the increased gyroscopic effect.
I did the calculations in braking torque between a 12.88" rotor and a 14" rotor and it was so little it wasn't worth it in my opinion. Assuming same pads, pressures etc.
With a good rotor ring you don't need the added mass of a 14" ring.
The new 12.88" rings that AP/Essex/Gary have are the best you can get and will perform as good as any 14" ring available at a greatly reduced cost and weight! (and better than many)
#19
Former Vendor
I agree with most of that. The use of oe rotors for "disposable" purposes has been successful for many years. The two piece is certainly nice and has a few benefits but cost is not one of them.
You're right that the added torque of the 14s won't be huge (trust me they won't fit anyhow) but what is missing on that statement is that max torque will always be the point of tire lock up. With that in mind the use of the larger rotor requires less clamping force to achieve the same net result. This puts less demand on the rotor and greatly increases its swept area also. Those combine to "lower the duty cycle" so to speak and add to the longevity of the part. *Stopping distance won't change you just change the math as to how it's achieved.
**And that custom rotor is countersunk .050" do a diameter of 9.25 btw. That will net you .050" on both sides of current centerline. Assuming you can spare .050 on the back side for clearance. If not then stick with the .100 and be certain you can shift the caliper outward on the mount to follow it.
You're right that the added torque of the 14s won't be huge (trust me they won't fit anyhow) but what is missing on that statement is that max torque will always be the point of tire lock up. With that in mind the use of the larger rotor requires less clamping force to achieve the same net result. This puts less demand on the rotor and greatly increases its swept area also. Those combine to "lower the duty cycle" so to speak and add to the longevity of the part. *Stopping distance won't change you just change the math as to how it's achieved.
**And that custom rotor is countersunk .050" do a diameter of 9.25 btw. That will net you .050" on both sides of current centerline. Assuming you can spare .050 on the back side for clearance. If not then stick with the .100 and be certain you can shift the caliper outward on the mount to follow it.
#20
Drifting
Member Since: Dec 2005
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....... but what is missing on that statement is that max torque will always be the point of tire lock up.
With that in mind the use of the larger rotor requires less clamping force to achieve the same net result. This puts less demand on the rotor and greatly increases its swept area also. Those combine to "lower the duty cycle" so to speak and add to the longevity of the part. *Stopping distance won't change you just change the math as to how it's achieved.
With that in mind the use of the larger rotor requires less clamping force to achieve the same net result. This puts less demand on the rotor and greatly increases its swept area also. Those combine to "lower the duty cycle" so to speak and add to the longevity of the part. *Stopping distance won't change you just change the math as to how it's achieved.
point 2....... but under most conditions (except for the more extreme i.e. 3 - 6 hour Enduro's) I don't think it will make a significant difference. And in my specific case I didn't need it. My C5 weighs less than 2800#'s
I still think the difference of the longevity of the part vs. the cost and weight penalty for a really good 14" rotor isn't justified in any type of sprint races....just my opinion...and you know what they say about that