turbotuner20v

Last time I took my C6 to the track (MAM) I didn't have anyone to help me bleed my brakes, so I went out on stock fluid w/ carbotech pads. I boiled over the stock fluid bad on the first session.

I've since flushed the system and put in ATE Super Blue.

How much difference will this fluid swap make?

I just got some cooling ducts from Quantum and may try to get them installed tonight, but I'm leaving at 6:30 AM tomorrow and won't be able to start working till late tonight, so I'm thinking about skipping the duct install.

How much do the generic Quantum ducts help? Will I be ok not running them and just using the Super Blue this time?

sothpaw2

Much depends on how hard you brake, which pad (XP8 or 12?) which depends on the track and run group. There was a C5Z at summit which is hard on brakes that was ok on ATE w/o ducts running XP12. But this was a beginning group--he started to use pad fast and boiled the fluid in intermediate. Make sure the pads have a lot left. Take it easy if there's a long staight leading to a low corner. In a lower run group with traffic you won't be able to go so fast onthe straight so this comes naturally.

turbotuner20v

I've got newer 10's in front and 8's in the rear on blank Napa rotors and stock supercar tires. I'll be running pretty hard in a mixed 'open lapping' group. Usually I'm in advanced though. I'll probably be hitting 140mph on the front straight running up to that sharp 90* and I'm looking to turn a 1:45 if I get space w/o traffic.

How much do the ducts help.. might be worth burning the midnight oil to get them on...

SIK02SS

You won't boil the Superblue, and the Quantum ducts will prolong the life of your rotors which just so happens to work in conjunction for you reason of switching to ATE, as it will keep the fluid cooler as well. For just an HPDE'r, good fluid is about all you need, but the spindle ducts are a definite bonus!

davidfarmer

how do you know you boiled the fluid? Regardless, just getting fresh fluid of any kind should help. Pretty bad you had to go home after less than one session.......

I think a Motive bleeder or some speed bleeders might be worth the investment.....will pay for itself quickly! I use a Nitrogen bottle and pressure cap, as I don't have any friends either

turbotuner20v

It leaked up and out of the resevoir and when I bled it in the paddock w/ some SCCA guys who were there for the weekend they said it was 110% toast... they were amazed my car only had 3,000 miles on it and that probably just happend in that one session. I got back out for the last session of the day on some borrowed fluid after bleeding all 4 corners and took a few more laps till I started feeling the fade again and let off so I could make it home ok w/o bleeding.

dvandentop

ate superblue will work good in your car for MAM i have used it with and without brake ducts and never had any brake issues after that.

my friend was on stock fluid and aftermarket pads and hoosiers and needless to say he went mowing the lawn at the end of the 2nd straight due to no brakes.

longdaddy

if boiled fluid few laps into the session on the street tires, something funny was going on. maybe you already had some air in the system?

Zenak

motul 600 is fine for 1/2 the price.

you cant use the basic ducts, you need the race duct kit. the basic kit just angles ait at the rotor you need the full ducting setup that diverts air form the front of the car at high speed directly to the hub and the rotor veins.

and what on earth were you thinking with RACE pads on stock fluid!??! You are lucky you didnt die.

2000BSME

speedbleeders are your friend my man. No help is needed. They run less than $20 per set of four.

Last C5

David is right, get the Motive. Once you get the Motive you'll have lots of friends. They'll want you to bleed their cars too.

sothpaw2

Too late to be of help but for the record...I am not a big fan of the ducts. My last set of front rotors got me through 2 days at Summit--they didn't crack threw but looked so close to the edge that I pulled them off. I just went through at tie rod end. How much worse would it really be w/o ducts?

Just put some good fluid in it (I don't like ATE--upgrade to Motul or even SRF for a tough track on brakes). I bring all the gear with me so I have the option of doing a full flush at the track.

Timz06

Brake fluid absorbs water over time which makes it boil at its 'wet boiling point' which is normally much lower than the dry. If you want to flush your fluid every event, just use cheap fluid and it will be fine (you will be working with the dry boiling point.) If you don't want to change fluid alot get something with a high wet boiling point. The real expensive fluids have wet boiling points that are closer to the dry boiling point.

Super blue 536/388 deg valvoline syntec (10$ per quart at autozone) 500/311- if you put new syntec in you are good for around 500 deg!

turbotuner20v

The ATE fluid seemed to work ok, but I cracked a pretty new NAPA front rotor It'd only seen the 2 sessions from last event before today.

regarding the setup I have waiting to go on, it's this:

z06 ducts w/ high temp hose


then the universal kit:

longdaddy

don't expect night and day difference as far as NAPA rotor longevity goes. maybe an extra session or two, if that.

rustyguns

SRF RULES THE WORLD!