Quartermaster Clutch Install
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Quartermaster Clutch Install
Finally (sigh) getting around to installing my 5.5" dia, clutch switch
Thanks so far to Danny Popp and Mike E. for helping me with some questions.
For you guys running an LS automatic flexplate as your starter ring, are you beefing up any of the welds on the ring gear or are these things suited to run as is, at ~7k rpm in a road race application?
Thanks so far to Danny Popp and Mike E. for helping me with some questions.
For you guys running an LS automatic flexplate as your starter ring, are you beefing up any of the welds on the ring gear or are these things suited to run as is, at ~7k rpm in a road race application?
#3
Racer
Member Since: Apr 2005
Location: New Carlisle Ohio
Posts: 395
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I used an aftermarket billet piece, sorry I cant help with that one, but I know James and Danny are spinning the snot out of their's.
Did the control arm find you. Thanks again.
Did the control arm find you. Thanks again.
#5
Safety Car
Finally (sigh) getting around to installing my 5.5" dia, clutch switch
Thanks so far to Danny Popp and Mike E. for helping me with some questions.
For you guys running an LS automatic flexplate as your starter ring, are you beefing up any of the welds on the ring gear or are these things suited to run as is, at ~7k rpm in a road race application?
Thanks so far to Danny Popp and Mike E. for helping me with some questions.
For you guys running an LS automatic flexplate as your starter ring, are you beefing up any of the welds on the ring gear or are these things suited to run as is, at ~7k rpm in a road race application?
#6
Race Director
I was urged by GM Racing engineers to spot-tig the OEM flexplate, since it is only friction welded together. However, the last one I got from Rock Auto was fully welded, so I'll go with them from now on.
photos here http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/quartermaster-C5.pdf this is the older one that I had to have welded. GM told me the teeth could fly off above 7000rpm
I have 5.5" 3-disc clutches for years, and never had any trouble modulating them in WC standing starts, and usually even drove it into my trailer. Not ideal, but never caused any problems.
photos here http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/quartermaster-C5.pdf this is the older one that I had to have welded. GM told me the teeth could fly off above 7000rpm
I have 5.5" 3-disc clutches for years, and never had any trouble modulating them in WC standing starts, and usually even drove it into my trailer. Not ideal, but never caused any problems.
#7
Former Vendor
We had one come flying apart. It wasn't pretty at all, out the bellhousing, out the drysump tank, out both sides of the chassis, and finally out the body work.
The newer flexplates have more weld on them.
Randy
The newer flexplates have more weld on them.
Randy
#8
Le Mans Master
#10
Race Director
My guy TIG welds if symmetrically, and balance was never an issue for me. Flexplate, unlike a flywheel, has very little mass.
Going to this setup and an aluminum damper saved around 40lbs of reciprocating mass!
Going to this setup and an aluminum damper saved around 40lbs of reciprocating mass!
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
I'm slower than an underwater fart
2 kids, 3rd on the way, working full time, starting a business, and every time I turn around it's another NASA weekend.
Jason the point of this is to help keep you behind me, not beside me
2 kids, 3rd on the way, working full time, starting a business, and every time I turn around it's another NASA weekend.
Jason the point of this is to help keep you behind me, not beside me
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
I only had 2" bolts in the kit for the cover, I needed 2 1/4" so I had to go source those locally.
Hope to test it tonight
btw what's the bore size of the C5 clutch master cylinder?
#15
Le Mans Master
#16
Race Director
the OEM master works fine, although you want to make sure you only press the pedal just far enough to disengage the clutch. If you overfill the throw-out bearing, it can esplode! However, I've run them in several cars and not had to adjust the pedal stops at all.
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
Unless I was reading all the charts wrong, I think I am in within their specs.
#18
Team Owner
#19
Racer
Thread Starter
I've got a .100 clearance and a .150 release spec for the 5.5". So basically I need .250 of bearing travel for full release.
the quartermaster chart assumes 1" of stroke travel for the MC, and I think is something in the .350 range.
can the plate tolerate an additional .100" of travel? may have to see how it works and see if I need a pedal stop
my bleeder extension is leaking. sigh. I think I have given up on vendors and will be making my own lines from now on.
the quartermaster chart assumes 1" of stroke travel for the MC, and I think is something in the .350 range.
can the plate tolerate an additional .100" of travel? may have to see how it works and see if I need a pedal stop
my bleeder extension is leaking. sigh. I think I have given up on vendors and will be making my own lines from now on.
#20
Race Director
I never put an extra stop in, but I'm pretty easy on the clutch pedal. If you really like to hammer the clutch (like a student I recently had), you should push it until is disengages, then see if there is much play left. With all you have left to do, I'd just get it together for now.
As I've posted somewhere, I just had an OEM-to-AN adapter made locally, and used the standard lines that came with the bearing.
As I've posted somewhere, I just had an OEM-to-AN adapter made locally, and used the standard lines that came with the bearing.