67Ranger

Today I'm doing the maintenance/checking everything out on my car after a weekend at the track, and I just wanted to make sure I checked everything I needed to. The only thing I have to do is bleed the brake fluid, also check other fluid levels, check ball joints/tie rod ends, check belts, check brake pad thickness, check tires, check wheel bearings, and thats about all I can think of at the moment. What else do you guys check after a weekend, or a few weekends on the track?

BTW the car is an 01 Z06

Thanks,
Joe

CHJ In Virginia

Your list is pretty comprehensive. I always add the following items 1) Thoroughly examine wheels for cracks - I have had a speedline crack a spoke 2) Completely check all suspension parts - A arm bolts, bushings, sway bar attachments and bushings in addition to your items 3) Visual check on diff and tranny for leaks 4) Engine oil status - is it time to change oil and filter. Proper maintenance keeps you on the track and greatly minimizes failures.

Bill Dearborn

I don't bother bleeding the brakes. If they were working fine when I drove the car on the trailer or drove it home they don't need bleeding. I change from track brake pads to street pads and inspect the rotors, brake lines, control arms, tie rods, brake ducts and anything else that could have been damaged. I check the oil level but do not change it. I use the OLM and usually change the oil once per year (its worked for 13+ years). When I get ready to go to the track the next time I swap brake pads, replace rotors if I think the ones on the car will crack before a day is over and then bleed the brakes and repeat all of the other checks.

On the C6Z I have to remember to grease the rear tie rod ends. The owner's manual says they should be greased after each track day. Hard to remember to do since my previous cars didn't require that. Just need to get into the habit.

Bill

67Ranger

The brakes we pretty soft by the time I got it home, so thats why they are getting bled, and the front rotors have some heat cracks in them, is that normal, and I assume they probably need to be replaced? And I totally agree about the oil, mine is still pretty clean, and since I have an 01, it uses enough to pretty much change itself after about 4-5 track days

Bill Dearborn

Are the pads tapered? Bleeding will not solve a long pedal due to tapered pads. Been there done that on my 97. We bled the brakes 3 times per day and never improved things the first time I had it at the track in 97. Replaced the brake pads and the pedal came right back up.

Bill

67Ranger

they were about tapered about .020 from front to back of the pad. I swapped them around to try and help it for the next day. Is there any way to get them to not taper on the next set?

CHJ In Virginia

Two questions - pad taper. When I was running stock calipers, I used to swap pads every day - side to side in the caliper to keep wear more even. It's a PITA but worth it in pad life and pedal feel. After a while the calipers will spread enough so that the only fix is replacement or swap to a BBK with quality calipers. Second question is stress cracks in rotors. My rule of thumb is rather conservative. If I can run a finger nail across the crack and it catches, it's time to replace. Some folks will run till they crack through, but I would rather change them a little more often and not lose a session - track time is expensive, rotors not so much. Just be sure you get adequate cool down at the end of a session, even if it is just 2 laps around the pits.

Jason

I check every bolt on the suspension I can put a wrench on. Spring mounts, a-arms, ball joints, swaybar links, shocks, bearings, etc. I guarentee you'll find one you can turn.

67Ranger

I appreciate the advice... I found 1 bolt I could turn, and on the next set of pads I will rotate them more. No cracks that grab a finger nail, so I'll keep the rotors... I agree with you though, I'd rather spend the extra little bit on a new set of rotors than worry about it. Dont have a big budget, but brakes arent the place to skimp.

Bill Dearborn

The pads will taper with brand new calipers. The calipers move around on the pins which is different than caliper spread which occurs over time. You can do some things to help reduce the speed at which they taper. When you apply the brakes don't just jump on them. First gently apply pressure to the pedal and give the pads a chance to engage with the rotor. Then push hard. The pads will still taper but you can get a few more sessions before the pedal goes so low you have trouble heel and toe down shifting. I got that advice from Ken Brown of GM Racing more than 10 years ago and it works.

Move the driver's side pads to the passenger side of the car and vice versa after each track day and you should get more life out of the pads and better brake feel.

Bill

RX-Ben

This is pretty obvious - maybe you already do it - but tighten your lugs before driving home. I find that mine like to occasionally loosen.

longdaddy

i have been fine for 4+ years of this hobby, then one day had to pull over on the way home 10 miles from the track with bad vibration. rear lug nuts on one wheel were so loose, the wheel would visibly shift when pushed with a hand. 2 hours earlier - 100ft/lbs on all 5

Zenak

Did you check the section sticky???

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...e-learned.html

67Ranger

yeah, Ive read through the majority of the stickey, or at least the parts about mods I'm considering. Awesome information, but I'm sure Ive mised some of it... and my lugs like to loosten a little bit too after a day or two on the track, I worry about the studs breaking off, but they always go back to torque just fine.

RX-Ben

Here is another one - check to make sure you didn't lose any wheel weights. And as a preventative measure, put duct tape over the weights as just the double-sided adhesive typically used is not enough (IME).

ErnieN85

the lug nuts usually go bad before the studs so take a few extras along

longdaddy

i did see someone someone lose a wheel on the track, he was swearing he tightened them, I did not believe him then, do believe him now, having come pretty close to it myself.

Zenak

dont use the chrome style lugs. get the Z06 style steel ones with the screw on cap style. the chrome ones tend to heat split or go soft and strip. saw a s2000 have this occur at the track this weekend. needed a hammergun (not impact) to get it lose with a special socket one guy had for that specific reason.