View Poll Results: Which LS1 / LS6 Oil pump is the best for Road Racing Application?
Melling
12
35.29%
Katech LS6 (ported)
17
50.00%
Meziere
0
0%
Other (please write which)
5
14.71%
Voters: 34. You may not vote on this poll
SURVEY:Which Oil Pump for LS1/LS6 - Road Racing
08-02-2010, 08:57 AM
#1
Terminal Vette Addict
Thread Starter
SURVEY:Which Oil Pump for LS1/LS6 - Road Racing
Please answer the survey question on whick oil pump for Road Racing:
Melling, Katech LS6 (ported), Meziere, Other
Why? Results and issues you had?
What else did you do with this mod besides an oil cooler?
If other is you choice, please list which and why.
Melling, Katech LS6 (ported), Meziere, Other
Why? Results and issues you had?
What else did you do with this mod besides an oil cooler?
If other is you choice, please list which and why.
08-02-2010, 09:19 AM
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: NJ
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St. Jude Donor '05-'08
Been very happy with the melling. Oil pressure is always good. No issues over the years.
As far as cooling I have a dewitts radiator with EOC and my oil temps always stay within reason.
As far as cooling I have a dewitts radiator with EOC and my oil temps always stay within reason.
Last edited by Wicked Weasel; 08-02-2010 at 09:21 AM.
08-02-2010, 09:29 AM
#3
Terminal Vette Addict
Thread Starter
I lost oil pressure and went limp diving into the boot at the Glenn this weekend, its time for a new pump. Also lost brakes at turn 8, had to dump into the gravel pits. Took 30lbs of stones out of the body panels Bob! We saved them for a special tribute. No bill for the gravel, was surprised. The Glenn charges for everything. One guy left a mile long oil trail... ouch. Oil temps between Jenny & I hot lapping it doulbe duty (4 runs am/ 4 pm total) were about 297F oil 
Im on 10w30 RP now. It went thin about 295F I think. Until I put in the coolers, Im afraid to go thicker. Is that a bad idea, should I go thicker now? What weight & brand?
Im on 10w30 RP now. It went thin about 295F I think. Until I put in the coolers, Im afraid to go thicker. Is that a bad idea, should I go thicker now? What weight & brand?
08-02-2010, 09:57 AM
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: NJ
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St. Jude Donor '05-'08
I lost oil pressure and went limp diving into the boot at the Glenn this weekend, its time for a new pump. Also lost brakes at turn 8, had to dump into the gravel pits. Took 30lbs of stones out of the body panels Bob! We saved them for a special tribute. No bill for the gravel, was surprised. The Glenn charges for everything. One guy left a mile long oil trail... ouch. Oil temps between Jenny & I hot lapping it doulbe duty (4 runs am/ 4 pm total) were about 297F oil
Im on 10w30 RP now. It went thin about 295F I think. Until I put in the coolers, Im afraid to go thicker. Is that a bad idea, should I go thicker now? What weight & brand?
Im on 10w30 RP now. It went thin about 295F I think. Until I put in the coolers, Im afraid to go thicker. Is that a bad idea, should I go thicker now? What weight & brand?
And yes WGI does charge for everything. Figure oil dri is $5 - $10 per bag (wgi probably charges handling fee too lol ) so it can add up quick.
08-02-2010, 12:20 PM
#7
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
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Here is a thread from one of our track friends:
New motor build, but look what caused the Old one to go ?
New motor build, but look what caused the Old one to go ?
08-02-2010, 02:38 PM
#9
Terminal Vette Addict
Thread Starter
08-02-2010, 02:46 PM
#10
Terminal Vette Addict
Thread Starter
Which Melling are you all using the 10295 or 10296?
10295 is stock flow until above a certain PSI then flow increased.
10296 is the high flow all the time, I was thinking this one.
10295 is stock flow until above a certain PSI then flow increased.
10296 is the high flow all the time, I was thinking this one.
Last edited by Zenak; 08-02-2010 at 03:16 PM.
08-02-2010, 05:14 PM
#12
Safety Car
What brake fluid was that? I haven't had a failure changing it less than a week before the event but the pedal does get longer. Very surprised to hear this.
08-02-2010, 06:11 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: If you don't weigh in you don't wrestle Road America
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Getting a ported/higher volume pump may not be the best idea for a couple of reasons. #1 look at the size of the hole that is going into the block, that is still staying the same size so are you really gaining more flow into the engine? #2 If you do up the volume you may just suck the pan dry quicker and cause a bigger problem.
You can shim the stock pump to up the pressure if that is what you are worried about.
I agree with the others that you should get a cooler on that thing and some M1 15w50.
08-02-2010, 06:56 PM
#14
Team Owner
08-02-2010, 06:58 PM
#15
Team Owner
08-02-2010, 07:11 PM
#16
Drifting
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: Dayton, OH
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I lost oil pressure and went limp diving into the boot at the Glenn this weekend, its time for a new pump. Also lost brakes at turn 8, had to dump into the gravel pits. Took 30lbs of stones out of the body panels Bob! We saved them for a special tribute. No bill for the gravel, was surprised. The Glenn charges for everything. One guy left a mile long oil trail... ouch. Oil temps between Jenny & I hot lapping it doulbe duty (4 runs am/ 4 pm total) were about 297F oil
Im on 10w30 RP now. It went thin about 295F I think. Until I put in the coolers, Im afraid to go thicker. Is that a bad idea, should I go thicker now? What weight & brand?
Im on 10w30 RP now. It went thin about 295F I think. Until I put in the coolers, Im afraid to go thicker. Is that a bad idea, should I go thicker now? What weight & brand?
Don't ask how I know.....but I have 2 bills from WG.As far as going to a heavier oil.....don't do it. You will more than likely burn a bearing in short order. I had a long discusion about oil with Bill Maxwell the Engineering Advisor for ExxonMobil last year at one of the Corvette Corrals during an ALMS race. He said that Mobil 1 synthetic is stable to about 400 degrees F. 300F should be no problem. He said the ALMS Corvettes were running 20w back then and that they were working on 0w to reduce friction and improve gas mileage. He said factory motor tolerances are designed to work with 30w and if you use a thicker oil you will starve the bearings. The molecules in 40w or 50w are bigger and won't give you the protection barrier you need with the tight tolerances. He said once you get in the high mileage range you can mix 1 qt. of 40w with 5 qts. 30w and you will be covered for the extra wear. This is what I do and I have over 113k on a motor that sees 6500rpm on a regular basis with oil temps around 280 - 300 and no oil coolers.
If your engine has been completely rebuilt and rebored and has different bearings then use the weight oil your engine builder recommends.
08-02-2010, 10:01 PM
#18
Racer
Ive used quite a few moroso pumps that worked great, I cant remember if they are just a reboxed melling or not though. You can also pull the cover off and port the pump (just make the entrance and exit a nice radius) to help the flow.
08-03-2010, 04:18 AM
#19
I am yet to see someone explain a science of 15w50 working better than OEM recommnded for a stock motor running at non-insane temperatures.
08-03-2010, 06:19 AM
#20
Team Owner
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: NJ
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St. Jude Donor '05-'08
Yes they do charge for everything....It costs $297 to repaint one piece of armco Don't ask how I know.....but I have 2 bills from WG.
As far as going to a heavier oil.....don't do it. You will more than likely burn a bearing in short order. I had a long discusion about oil with Bill Maxwell the Engineering Advisor for ExxonMobil last year at one of the Corvette Corrals during an ALMS race. He said that Mobil 1 synthetic is stable to about 400 degrees F. 300F should be no problem. He said the ALMS Corvettes were running 20w back then and that they were working on 0w to reduce friction and improve gas mileage. He said factory motor tolerances are designed to work with 30w and if you use a thicker oil you will starve the bearings. The molecules in 40w or 50w are bigger and won't give you the protection barrier you need with the tight tolerances. He said once you get in the high mileage range you can mix 1 qt. of 40w with 5 qts. 30w and you will be covered for the extra wear. This is what I do and I have over 113k on a motor that sees 6500rpm on a regular basis with oil temps around 280 - 300 and no oil coolers.
If your engine has been completely rebuilt and rebored and has different bearings then use the weight oil your engine builder recommends.
Don't ask how I know.....but I have 2 bills from WG.As far as going to a heavier oil.....don't do it. You will more than likely burn a bearing in short order. I had a long discusion about oil with Bill Maxwell the Engineering Advisor for ExxonMobil last year at one of the Corvette Corrals during an ALMS race. He said that Mobil 1 synthetic is stable to about 400 degrees F. 300F should be no problem. He said the ALMS Corvettes were running 20w back then and that they were working on 0w to reduce friction and improve gas mileage. He said factory motor tolerances are designed to work with 30w and if you use a thicker oil you will starve the bearings. The molecules in 40w or 50w are bigger and won't give you the protection barrier you need with the tight tolerances. He said once you get in the high mileage range you can mix 1 qt. of 40w with 5 qts. 30w and you will be covered for the extra wear. This is what I do and I have over 113k on a motor that sees 6500rpm on a regular basis with oil temps around 280 - 300 and no oil coolers.
If your engine has been completely rebuilt and rebored and has different bearings then use the weight oil your engine builder recommends.