tjZ06

I've had my C5Z for about 5 years now, and have found an alignment that I really like as a mix of (minimal) street driving, AutoX and tracking it. The car has gotten to the stage (full cage etc.) where I'm not going to street drive it much, if at all, anymore so I'm thinking it's time for more aggressive specs.

I'd like to optimize to tracking the car on A6s or the various scrub slicks that are available on the forum. Right now I'm running:

• -2.8 Front Camber
• -1.7 Rear Camber
• 0 Front Toe
• .25" Rear Toe-In
• Maxed Front Caster

What would you all recommend to optimize on A6s or real slicks, with street use as no concern?

I was thinking:

• -3.2 Front Camber
• -1.8 Rear Camber
• .25" Front Toe-Out
• .25" Rear Toe-In
• Maxed Front Caster

Thoughts?

-TJ

tjZ06

Also, suggested ride-height (the car still has stock spindles, no drop-spindles yet )?

-TJ

yakisoba

I generally run around -2.2 front, -1.5 rear, toed out in front, in in back, just a little. Caster takes care of itself. Seems to work well, for time trial sort of stuff. I run Hoosier R6 tires on 17" wheels.

drivinhard

that's probably pretty close. I've been running nearly that since about May (went to more front neg in May) and we just did scott's car that way and he picked up nearly 2 secs. same basic specs, just less front toe out. lots of toe out works good on maybe the slower speed auto-x type tracks. so far I've chewed up in the inside fronts pretty good at the high speed VIR/RA type of tracks.

1/8" in rear works good, haven't gone to 1/4" yet.

I don't notice any braking differences between -2.5 and -3.2 and the traqmate shows not loss of braking G

tjZ06

Great input, thanks! I suppose I'll go for less front toe. I'll happily trade a little low-speed turn-in for high-speed stability.

Where are ya'll setting your ride-height?

Thanks!!

-TJ

gkmccready

What's the suspension? If you're running poly bushings or sphericals you don't need near as much static camber or rear toe-in as with stock rubber bushings. 1/4" toe-out up front seems like way too much. I'm running about 1/64" toe-IN (as suggested by Randy@DRM and Mark@MSI) in the front. With the Pfadt poly bushings I find 1/16" toe-IN in the back is just fine, too, with the DRM coilovers the car hooks nicely. I'd say let the stopwatch and the pyrometer tell you where to set camber...

tjZ06

The car is having Pfadt's spherical bearings installed currently along w/ Gary's alignment kit.

-TJ

gkmccready

I bet now that you've taken the compliance out of the bushings that your current alignment will behave/wear much like your suggested alignment would have if you'd kept the stock bushings -- if you follow.

Dig back for the DRM RTR thread; that was a full-on race car and the alignment was < -2deg camber with the sphericals in the LCAs. The other thing you might do is ask Pfadt what they suggest to folks who install the sphericals...

tjZ06

Thanks again for all the input. I'm still looking for ride-height suggestions. From this thread and a few others it actually sounds like I might not need to be so aggressive with the camber now w/ the sphericals.

Thanks,
TJ

gkmccready

I'm 4 1/2" to the front of the front jacking puck hole, and 4 7/8" to the rear of the rear jacking puck hole. With the DRM coilovers the car has been working really well at this ride height & rake.

If I was going to experiment I'd mess with ride height +- 1/2" and rake somewhere between 0 and 1/2".

It's been explained to me that you want to make sure the LCAs are level or have a slight down angle. FWIW, my car was 5" to the jacking puck holes stock... ('06 C6 Z51)

RaleighSS

what is cutting your inside fronts? The Toe or the Camber?