C4 Towing
08-30-2010, 03:20 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
C4 Towing
Just picked up an open trailer and wanted to get some straps and hooks. I have read all the threads on here about T-hooks and ratchet straps, but they are all in reference to C5s and C6s.
I just want to make sure that a C4 has the same spots for the hooks or if there is a better way. The car is in the shop, so I can't look at it.
I just want to make sure that a C4 has the same spots for the hooks or if there is a better way. The car is in the shop, so I can't look at it.
08-30-2010, 04:35 PM
#2
Safety Car
Just picked up an open trailer and wanted to get some straps and hooks. I have read all the threads on here about T-hooks and ratchet straps, but they are all in reference to C5s and C6s.
I just want to make sure that a C4 has the same spots for the hooks or if there is a better way. The car is in the shop, so I can't look at it.
I just want to make sure that a C4 has the same spots for the hooks or if there is a better way. The car is in the shop, so I can't look at it.
There are places to tie it on, but be warned! After 5 years mine started to come loose from the frame. There are brackets spot-welded to the frame, and mine have started to pull the welds loose. Get someone to TIG weld them around the perimeter and you'll be fine. Just make sure there isn't a cable for the FX3 system resting behind it...ask me how I found THAT out!
You'll see them when you look past the lower trailing link in front of the rear tire, and just behind the front tire. They work great, but I don't think GM thought about more than 1 or 2 uses...just transporting to the dealership. A little extra welding and they'll be good for a long time.
I can't recall slots in the frame for the t-slot hooks...need to get it up on the lift and see if there are any there.
08-30-2010, 04:50 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
I have been towing a C4 on an open trailer since 2001 using the factory tie down points on the front and rear. I have not had the problem 1991Z07 described, however, I will be looking at them more closely to verify they are firmly attached. Thanks for that info.
It helps to paint these tie down points a bright color to help locating them, but they will have to be repainted based on the amount of driving you do.
Ed
It helps to paint these tie down points a bright color to help locating them, but they will have to be repainted based on the amount of driving you do.
Ed
08-30-2010, 05:07 PM
#5
Safety Car
I remember seeing one racer that fashioned new rear tie downs...made them out of 1/8" or 3/16" plate steel. Made them narrow enough to slide between the trailing link bracket and the trailing links, used the factory bolts through them AND the trailing link bracket to secure it to the frame.
He also used new ones up front that were secured using the front lower control arm bolts. Looked pretty beefy to me
I found that for me the best thing was a short piece of square tube cut to JUST fit between the frame and the trailer. Have a place on the trailer it slots into, and then a slot on the top to fit into that lower rib on the frame rail. When you crank it down, the car becomes a part of the trailer then...suspension deflection on the Corvette is a non-issue. That's what screws up the factory tie-downs more than anything...car suspension bouncing and pulling on the straps. Doing the above eliminates it entirely.
He also used new ones up front that were secured using the front lower control arm bolts. Looked pretty beefy to me
I found that for me the best thing was a short piece of square tube cut to JUST fit between the frame and the trailer. Have a place on the trailer it slots into, and then a slot on the top to fit into that lower rib on the frame rail. When you crank it down, the car becomes a part of the trailer then...suspension deflection on the Corvette is a non-issue. That's what screws up the factory tie-downs more than anything...car suspension bouncing and pulling on the straps. Doing the above eliminates it entirely.
08-30-2010, 06:10 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Oct 2003
Location: New Carlisle IN
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We just use a axel strap around the front sway bar on both ends with come-a-longs to tie it down. On the rear we use an axel strap going through the wheel (A-molds) with ratchet straps.
08-30-2010, 06:37 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
I found that for me the best thing was a short piece of square tube cut to JUST fit between the frame and the trailer. Have a place on the trailer it slots into, and then a slot on the top to fit into that lower rib on the frame rail. When you crank it down, the car becomes a part of the trailer then...suspension deflection on the Corvette is a non-issue. That's what screws up the factory tie-downs more than anything...car suspension bouncing and pulling on the straps. Doing the above eliminates it entirely.
Have any pictures? I am having trouble visualizing what you describe.
TIA,
Ed
08-30-2010, 08:27 PM
#9
Safety Car
Basically, on the bed of the trailer is a 1/4" thick plate welded with a hole cut out to fit the square tubing. The top of the tubing has a V-notch to clear the bottom of the frame. When you crank down the car, you only need about 1/4" - 3/8" and the frame is secured to the bed of the trailer directly through the square tubing.
No suspension play (on the car) at all that way. The trailer suspension is sufficient for everything else.
08-31-2010, 07:46 AM
#11
Team Owner
Personally I would not think the sway bars is a good place to strap to. If I did my C4 often I think I would go with a system that goes over the wheel tops.
08-31-2010, 10:11 AM
#12
Safety Car
08-31-2010, 10:55 AM
#13
Race Director
Crossing the straps is always the best idea.
The way the hooks are on my trailer currently I cannot cross the fronts. On my way home from VIR this weekend I had to make an evasive maneuver to try to miss a big construction barrel (because I was an idiot). The rear of the car stayed firmly planted with the straps crossed. The front of the car moved a good 3-4 inches to the side on the trailer because there was no side support with the straps uncrossed.
On a side note, I clipped the barrel with the trailer fender in the process and am pretty sure I set a new distance record with it.
The way the hooks are on my trailer currently I cannot cross the fronts. On my way home from VIR this weekend I had to make an evasive maneuver to try to miss a big construction barrel (because I was an idiot). The rear of the car stayed firmly planted with the straps crossed. The front of the car moved a good 3-4 inches to the side on the trailer because there was no side support with the straps uncrossed.
On a side note, I clipped the barrel with the trailer fender in the process and am pretty sure I set a new distance record with it.
08-31-2010, 01:12 PM
#14
Safety Car
There are definately 4 spots for T-hooks on the C4. I have 4 t-hooks to go in them. I have never once strapped the car down that way, they couldn't be more of a PITA to get to. However, that's the "right" way to do it.
On my open trailer I ran long straps through the front and rear wheels. I always worried that this would mess up my alignment, but it never did. One time it saved my bacon, a strap came loose and as it slipped through the wheel the hook got caught in the caliper and kept my car from coming over the front of the trailer into my truck.
Now I run a strap through the batwing in the rear and go around the A-arms in the front (criss-crossed, of course) and have been doing this for years. I've read differing opinions about whether or not you want the suspension involved in the equation, I've done it both ways and never had a problem. Well except the one above, but that was due to improper tie down, not choice of location.
On my open trailer I ran long straps through the front and rear wheels. I always worried that this would mess up my alignment, but it never did. One time it saved my bacon, a strap came loose and as it slipped through the wheel the hook got caught in the caliper and kept my car from coming over the front of the trailer into my truck.
Now I run a strap through the batwing in the rear and go around the A-arms in the front (criss-crossed, of course) and have been doing this for years. I've read differing opinions about whether or not you want the suspension involved in the equation, I've done it both ways and never had a problem. Well except the one above, but that was due to improper tie down, not choice of location.
08-31-2010, 02:05 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
I ran a chain through the front crossmember ( hard to reach) .
An axle strap through the batwing ratching back . 350 miles did OK
Might use T hooks this labor day
An axle strap through the batwing ratching back . 350 miles did OK
Might use T hooks this labor day
08-31-2010, 09:19 PM
#17
Le Mans Master
I'm still working on a reasonable way to quickly tie it down so it won't move.
Tried something new and kept getting one loose strap
Still working on it.
Tried something new and kept getting one loose strap
Still working on it.
08-31-2010, 09:36 PM
#18
What a friend of mine did who trailers his C4 (I drive mine to events towing a trailer) was put high strength steel loops, the ones that look like a C until you screw the center section closed. they are under the car in the t-hook location and he clips into those with his rachet straps. Do not use your sway bar.
08-31-2010, 09:50 PM
#19
Safety Car
08-31-2010, 10:02 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Now I run a strap through the batwing in the rear and go around the A-arms in the front (criss-crossed, of course) and have been doing this for years. I've read differing opinions about whether or not you want the suspension involved in the equation, I've done it both ways and never had a problem. Well except the one above, but that was due to improper tie down, not choice of location.