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Why would new shocks mess up my ride height left to right?

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Old 09-13-2010, 12:00 PM
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GCMan
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Default Why would new shocks mess up my ride height left to right?

I have been racking my brain trying to figure out what is going on with my new shocks. I have a very low mileage 03 zo6 that was completely stock and had an alignment done for 95% autocross. It drove straight and handling great but I decided to install Koni Sports. After the install I noticed the steering wheel is off to the left and car pulls to left. I double checked to make sure I put all the bushings etc back correctly. None of the alignment concentrics have moved because I painted all the adjusters. I checked my ride height at the jacking points and the car is about 1/2 to 3/4 high on the right side. So I tried all weekend to get the car level and rake at 1/4 to 1/2". The only way I could get the car "level" was to lower the right side front all the way and raise the left front all the way. The rear is maxed out in height and I can't get anymore to make the rake right. Is it possible that my new Konis are different lengths or where is this difference in left to right coming from. I changed nothing else and the car is like new. No accidents but I never measured ride height before I did the change but I did note the adjusters for ride height were the same (front 1/2 turn from lowest and rear 1 turn from full lowest). I am confused why the car isn't levele like it was.
Old 09-13-2010, 01:02 PM
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63Corvette
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I have no idea. Who installed your shocks? I would check that both front shocks have the same part number and both rear shocks. Then, I would probably call (or post to) Phoenix Racing and ask for help.
Old 09-13-2010, 01:19 PM
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rustyguns
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did your ride height change? it usually does when you change shocks and that ruins your alignment

check the alignment
Old 09-13-2010, 04:24 PM
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GCMan
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I did the install. I checked the part numbers are all the same (Koni 3013 sport). I made sure the square spacers that came out between the front A arms got replaced where they came from. Yes, I'm taking it back in for a re-alignment Friday. I just don't see why the ride height is so messed up and I can't get any front/rear rake. Can they adjust ride height on a typical alignment rack ? I drove the car each time I made a change to make sure the suspension was settled before I measured the ride height. This is weird. I might just got back to my OEM shocks and see if I can get the car to sit right.
Old 09-13-2010, 04:32 PM
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rustyguns
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Originally Posted by GCMan
I did the install. I checked the part numbers are all the same (Koni 3013 sport). I made sure the square spacers that came out between the front A arms got replaced where they came from. Yes, I'm taking it back in for a re-alignment Friday. I just don't see why the ride height is so messed up and I can't get any front/rear rake. Can they adjust ride height on a typical alignment rack ? I drove the car each time I made a change to make sure the suspension was settled before I measured the ride height. This is weird. I might just got back to my OEM shocks and see if I can get the car to sit right.
maybe your old shocks were really screwed up and the alignment compensated for the old shocks.......change shocks and alignment is OFF !
Old 09-13-2010, 07:41 PM
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AU N EGL
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Originally Posted by rustyguns
maybe your old shocks were really screwed up and the alignment compensated for the old shocks.......change shocks and alignment is OFF !
That is what I was wondering too.
Old 09-13-2010, 07:50 PM
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John Shiels
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Are you the original owner? Was the car wrapped up? What are you measuring from? What are you measuring with? Gas pressure in a shock may change height very slightly. How were the shocks you removed like the bushing? Changing your shock should do nothing to to steering wheel centering. Shocks should do little to the alignment.

My friend had a Vette n the 80's. One side had a 1" longer wheelbase. Then he was repainting it and when the sanded it down it had 4 different color body panels. Car was 2 years old. It was eating front tires.

Last edited by John Shiels; 09-13-2010 at 07:54 PM.
Old 09-13-2010, 09:30 PM
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UstaB-GS549
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You might try pulling the shock on the corner that is high and look to see if it has more than one bumper on the rod under the cover.

Or pull them all and compare lengths.
Old 09-13-2010, 11:01 PM
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GCMan
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Originally Posted by John Shiels
Are you the original owner? Was the car wrapped up? What are you measuring from? What are you measuring with? Gas pressure in a shock may change height very slightly. How were the shocks you removed like the bushing? Changing your shock should do nothing to to steering wheel centering. Shocks should do little to the alignment.

My friend had a Vette n the 80's. One side had a 1" longer wheelbase. Then he was repainting it and when the sanded it down it had 4 different color body panels. Car was 2 years old. It was eating front tires.
No , I am the second owner. The car has 8000 orginal miles on it and it has without any doubt never been in any accident. It was perfect with stock alignment. I had an alignment done a few months ago I watched everything and marked the adjusters to make sure they didn't slip after a few events. We recorded the original settings and it was fine. I just didn't measure ride height. I am measuring just in front and just behind the jacking points using 1/4 pipe thread nipples and short collars in the exact spot everytime to be consistent. On the metal part JUST by the holes but not on the fiberglass. The stock shocks were perfect. I drove the car 1000 miles to get it home and was great.

One way to check would be to pull everything off and compare over all shock lengths. Then switch left and right shocks to see if the trend reverses. But thats alot of work and I have an event this weekend. Has anybody ever measured how much difference there is in height from full low (CCW) to full tall (CW) ?
Thanks!
Old 09-14-2010, 07:27 AM
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UstaB-GS549
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I think I remember that the screw adjustment range is about 5/8" at the spring and about 3/4" at the wheel.

Check to see if adjuster is hung up in end of spring. That could make car sit high on one corner and would also explain sudden height change.
Old 09-14-2010, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by UstaB-GS549
I think I remember that the screw adjustment range is about 5/8" at the spring and about 3/4" at the wheel.

Check to see if adjuster is hung up in end of spring. That could make car sit high on one corner and would also explain sudden height change.

Give a quick call to Lee Grimes at Koni, 800.922.2616 or his cell at 859.630.9350
Old 09-14-2010, 08:57 AM
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alextz
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two things, the rubber insulator at the top of the shock can get buckled over when reinstalling, making the shock body pushed lower, which raises ride height. the 2nd thing is the spring perch deforms over time, and when it does, it engages the control arm at an angle, also raising ride height.
Old 09-14-2010, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by alextz
two things, the rubber insulator at the top of the shock can get buckled over when reinstalling, making the shock body pushed lower, which raises ride height. the 2nd thing is the spring perch deforms over time, and when it does, it engages the control arm at an angle, also raising ride height.
he only has 8000 on it.
Old 09-14-2010, 02:06 PM
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GCMan
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Originally Posted by UstaB-GS549
I think I remember that the screw adjustment range is about 5/8" at the spring and about 3/4" at the wheel.

Check to see if adjuster is hung up in end of spring. That could make car sit high on one corner and would also explain sudden height change.
As long as the spring moves up and down when I turn the adjuster , it should not be hung up , right? I'll make sure tonite that the "high" side is in fact moving the spring up and down when I turn the adjuster. I was sure I had checked that but I want to triple check that.

Does leaving the sway bar(s) connected matter or do I need to release one side of both ends of the car? I have not disconnected them so far but have made sure to "settle" the suspension with a quick drive.

After that I'll call and see what Koni says. Thanks for everyones input.
Old 09-14-2010, 02:39 PM
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When you install shocks the suspension droops well past it's normal travel & the stock bushings get twisted over normal & may stick until the car is driven a while.

Also the stock adjusters (for ride height) do not do a terrific job sliding on the pad that they touch.

I would drive the car briskly over some speed bumps a few times & then set ride height again & then check it later on.

If you are jacking the car up each time you set ride height, then you have to drive it over the speed bumps each time or get it on a rack or blocks or something so you can reach the adjusters without jacking. Maybe just drive it up on ramps & adjust & drive it down, no jacking.

Last edited by froggy47; 09-14-2010 at 02:43 PM.
Old 09-14-2010, 02:58 PM
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Stock C6 ZO6 shocks have about 50lbs of lift each so a total of 200 lbs lift total. If your new shocks have more or less lift than the shocks that came off your car it will change your ride height.
To check the lift take a set of bathroom scales put one end of the shock on the scales and press on the other end of shock half way down and stop. See how many lbs. it reads. That should tell you the difference between the old and new shocks.

Ed

Last edited by 1ED1; 09-14-2010 at 03:55 PM. Reason: adding
Old 09-14-2010, 03:09 PM
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1ED1
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Also check to see if you put the rear shock flanges that mount to the frame correctly. On the C6 Z there is a long and short side.
Ed
Old 09-16-2010, 04:43 PM
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Did you find out what was wrong.
Old 09-16-2010, 11:23 PM
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GCMan
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Update:
Well I checked to make sure the front adjustments were actually working right as they do bind up unless you get unload the spring before trying to make adjustments. Also checked shock lengths and they are extremely close although I didn't do the scale test to see how many lbs to get the shock to mid point. To make along story straight I have no idea whats going on. I lowered the fronts completely and then brought back up 1/2 turn. I returned the rears to basically the way they were , 1 turn up from lowest ( 1 turn CW from bottom) I then went trashed the car as much as I could on street tires. Full brakes , full power and slam it left and right very hard and went back to measure ride heights. I did this twice to be sure. I measured consistent same gaps( LF,RF,LR,RR) 4 7/8", 5.0" , 5 1/8" , 5 3/8" measured from jacking points. I'm out of time and off to alignment shop early in the morning. I am hoping for front camber min of -2.5 front and -1,5 rear with caster 7ish but equal. Zero toe front and I like a LOT of rear toe at 1/2" in. My only conclusion is these suspensions have a lot of sticky before they settle after jacking up and down and making adjustments aren't huge in how they measure out at the jacking points. I have a lot of driving skill to learn before I worry too much about 1/8" here or there.

Last edited by GCMan; 09-16-2010 at 11:29 PM.

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