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Master Electrical Cutoff Switch Install - Help Needed

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Old 09-27-2010, 12:39 PM
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sperkins
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Default Master Electrical Cutoff Switch Install - Help Needed

I'm a newbie when it comes to electrical work. How did you guys install this switch on your car?
Apparently, there are 2 methods to install this thing - a one wire and a two wire method. Which is best/easier?

Mine is the 4 post version:

Old 09-27-2010, 12:50 PM
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redtopz
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I just installed mine a month ago. I have the same exact 4 post switch as you and installed it on my passenger side roll bar near the glove compartment. We welded a small plate to the bar to hold the switch and then ran the 1/0 welding wire (for the battery) and smaller wire for the alternator down through the dash and through the firewall hole underneath the glove compartment. The large posts on the switch are for the battery and the small posts are for the alternator. I cut the alternator wire at the alternator and ran a wire along the back of the engine compartment to the switch. Then ran another wire from the switch back to the alternator. Same for the battery. Get some good terminals and solder your splices with good connectors. The only hard part is getting the wires through the firewall. You will need a helper to pull the wires while you feed them. I can take pics tomorrow if that would help.
Old 09-27-2010, 01:14 PM
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varkwso
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pictures would be very nice.
Old 09-27-2010, 02:47 PM
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Talk to Tim Marcinek he's got it down simple.
Old 09-27-2010, 03:27 PM
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varkwso
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Originally Posted by Jason
Talk to Tim Marcinek he's got it down simple.
Better yet have Tim do it. He just bought a new truck so he could use the $$$.
Old 09-27-2010, 07:16 PM
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Timz06
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Originally Posted by varkwso
Better yet have Tim do it. He just bought a new truck so he could use the $$$.
Thanks $100 and the switch only needs two wires.
Old 09-27-2010, 07:38 PM
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Timz06
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Default How to connect the kill switch

There are a lot of people doing extra work out there, so here is an easier way to do this. I guess having a EE degree does have it's benefits after all.

The tricky part about this is that the battery cable positive terminal has two connections. One wire goes to the alternator, and the other to the distribution box. If you simply pull the positive cable off of the battery, the car will continue to run, as the alternator is supplying power to the distribution panel, which feeds the vehicle electrical system.

What is needed is to remove the power from the distribution panel. If this is done, it doesn't matter what the alternator is doing, everything is dead.

All you need to do is cut the cable between the battery and the distribution panel, and put your switch in series. Here are some pictures to illustrate.



Old 09-28-2010, 12:42 AM
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redtopz
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Originally Posted by Timz06
There are a lot of people doing extra work out there, so here is an easier way to do this. I guess having a EE degree does have it's benefits after all.

The tricky part about this is that the battery cable positive terminal has two connections. One wire goes to the alternator, and the other to the distribution box. If you simply pull the positive cable off of the battery, the car will continue to run, as the alternator is supplying power to the distribution panel, which feeds the vehicle electrical system.

What is needed is to remove the power from the distribution panel. If this is done, it doesn't matter what the alternator is doing, everything is dead.

All you need to do is cut the cable between the battery and the distribution panel, and put your switch in series. Here are some pictures to illustrate.
Good info. I didn't trace the two hot wires and I left them connected. I tried only connecting the battery lead to the switch, but the engine kept running off the alternator current. So I ran a separate wire to the alternator and that worked. I might go back and do your method so I can remove 12' of unnecessary wire.
Old 09-28-2010, 09:45 AM
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sperkins
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Thanks Tim!
Old 02-18-2011, 07:42 PM
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sperkins
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Anyone know what gauge wire to buy to splice this wire?

Originally Posted by Timz06
Old 02-18-2011, 07:56 PM
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trackboss
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Most factory cables are 4 guage. Just go to a welding shop and get welding cable. Much better quality than any cable sold as battery cable.
Old 02-18-2011, 08:56 PM
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The cable in question is smaller than most battery cables so I'm thinking it may be 6 ga.
Old 02-18-2011, 10:45 PM
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I wouldn't go any smaller than 4. If it has to be longer than a couple feet I'd go for 2 guage. Don't bother splicing. Those cables are both short. One goes to the starter and I believe one goes to the electrical distribution to run the car. Just make new cables. It's quite simple and you can route them exactly as you want plus use high quality connectors and terminal covers of your choice.
Old 02-19-2011, 05:05 AM
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It needs to be mounted where the driver can reach it while belted and rescue workers can reach it from outside of car. Might help to check your rule book if it is required as some rule books want all power off including battery power. Think wreck with shorted wires and broken fuel lines.

Last edited by C&M Racing; 02-19-2011 at 09:59 AM.
Old 02-19-2011, 08:57 AM
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Tractor supply has it in spools.
Old 02-19-2011, 09:12 AM
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TJM
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Originally Posted by trackboss
I wouldn't go any smaller than 4. If it has to be longer than a couple feet I'd go for 2 guage. Don't bother splicing. Those cables are both short. One goes to the starter and I believe one goes to the electrical distribution to run the car. Just make new cables. It's quite simple and you can route them exactly as you want plus use high quality connectors and terminal covers of your choice.


The typical Starter is 2Hp and that's about 85 amps at 12volts.

#2 [ Fine stranded wire] is good for about 100 amps. Don't buy building wire [ 19 strands]!!

Your looking for something with about 133 fine strands for flexibility.

TJM







The battery is capable of at least 100amps and a starter pulls #2 is good for
Old 02-19-2011, 11:53 AM
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Timz06
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The cable in the picture is #4 monster cable audio wire! My friend has a business doing upgrades for a dealer. He replaced some baller's massive audio system and kept the cable, so I got it for free. It has a lot of strands and is very flexible.

Tim

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Old 03-24-2014, 08:09 PM
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GO_BLUE_VETTES
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Originally Posted by Timz06
There are a lot of people doing extra work out there, so here is an easier way to do this. I guess having a EE degree does have it's benefits after all.

The tricky part about this is that the battery cable positive terminal has two connections. One wire goes to the alternator, and the other to the distribution box. If you simply pull the positive cable off of the battery, the car will continue to run, as the alternator is supplying power to the distribution panel, which feeds the vehicle electrical system.

What is needed is to remove the power from the distribution panel. If this is done, it doesn't matter what the alternator is doing, everything is dead.

All you need to do is cut the cable between the battery and the distribution panel, and put your switch in series. Here are some pictures to illustrate.



Hi Tim, can you host/post up these three pictures again please?
Old 03-24-2014, 08:51 PM
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Han Solo
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I'm about to start wiring my LMSC and was planning to just run the hot wire for the alternator to the battery side of the disconnect. That way when the switch opens it will kill everything.
Old 03-24-2014, 09:32 PM
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victorf
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Originally Posted by Timz06
The cable in the picture is #4 monster cable audio wire! My friend has a business doing upgrades for a dealer. He replaced some baller's massive audio system and kept the cable, so I got it for free. It has a lot of strands and is very flexible.

Tim
I don't have an EE degree. These question might be too elementary for you?

So you say its ok to use fine strand #4 Monster Cable audio wire for auto battery?

Some here suggest welding cable?

How do you secure ring terminal onto cable?


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