offshore241

Looking for a base line suspension set up for my track only C5 Covettte. The local "experts" have wasted enought of my time and money, let alone tires.

Looking for base line camber, caster, and toe settings. This is looking ahead for Sebring and PBIR, any shock pressures as well.

The Michelin set up chart is scary....3-4degrees negative ???

Man that seems like a lot of camber.....

I felt like I was driving a hook and ladder truck this weekend at Homestead..................... Think the toe was WAY off


Your inputs are greatly appreciated, been driving dinosar vintage cars, this is new to me.

Help get someone to go faster !!

Thanks !
B

stano

Here are my specs from a T-1 car I just bought from the Tracy's in Chicago who ran those tracks. I'm thinking about going with a bit more camber and toe adjustments

Toe front and rear -.02
Camber front -2.5
Rear -1.0
Caster left 6.94 right 6.86
Thrust 0.0

The car always ran with A6's on a Moton suspension.

Hope this helps

kflee

I have a set of Hardbar spec Penske 8200LE dual rate coilovers for sale. They are non-adjustable, but can be upgraded to 2-way or 3-way. They sell for $3000 new. Will take $2200. They are great on the track!!! http://hardbarusa.com/hardbar/produc...roducts_id=122

Kirk

offshore241

We just threw it up on a New Hunter alainment rack.........a little toe out to say the least.......


Sad, wish we had more Pro shops down here in S Florida. Anyone recomend a good shop down here ??

Quicksilver Z06

Not sure where in So FL you are. Ernie Bello at Bello Motorsports in West Palm Beach is one of the best in the area 561-686-1941. He has been racing and instructing for years. Lots of local racers/PCA/PBOC/NASA drivers use him. He corner balanced and aligned my Z06 after installing Pfadt coilovers and Pfatty sways. I'm happy!

geerookie

Toe settings are usually to personal taste but a good place to start is 1/16" to 1/8" total. Front is toe out and rear is toe in.
More toe out on the front helps turn in and more toe in on the rear helps settle the car.
I run about 7.5 degrees of caster, also helps with turn in. The more caster the heavier the steering will feel, the less the lighter but it may start to feel darty on the high speed straights.

Camber is affected by many things. The most significant is what type of bushings you have in the control arms.
If you have rubber then it needs to be much/alot/WAY higher. If you are running poly bushings then it needs to be much higher but not as high as rubber.
If you are running spherical bearings then it needs to be what the manufacture of the tire recommends. This is usually around -3 degrees depending on the tracks you run and how much banking is or isn't in the corners.

offshore241

Many thanks to the guys that responded !!

davidfarmer

I'd say that Michelin chart is for hard core racers, run the tires once then throw them away. The only way you need that much camber is is you are running virtually no pressure in them. Regular track tires that you plan on running for multiple weekends need more pressure and less camber. You won't necessarily get ultimate grip, but unless you have a $3000/weekend tire budget, it's reality.

A baseline setup, as recommended, should give you a quick predictable car. Anywhere around -2 front camber, -1.2rear camber, symmetric castor, and OEM Toe will give you a good start.

GrantB

For a full race car? Wow, thats what I ran when my FRC was my daily driver. I don't think I've ever played with a car that was fastest with that little camber?

Different car, but going from -2.5/-2.0 to -3.0/-2.5 on my Miata race car produced significantly more grip (around 0.04 gee average). I don't mess with my C5's alignment much because its a street car and I can't get much camber out of the rear anyways.

autoxer6

What is the typical camber of a T1 set up? Are guys running 3+ degrees in the front?

0Vector Vette

Camber up front 2.5 to 3 degrees, Hoosiers like more camber. Toe out 3-4mm, caster is subjective but should be symetric.

Camber in rear 1.2 to 1.5, would like more but not achievable without significant changes. Toe in 1-2mm.

J.R.

Here is a link for info to use as a starting guide.

http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-alignment.pdf

fatbillybob

on stock rubber and stock adjusters you can't get more than -2.5F -1.5r and even hardbar camber plates limit out there. You can get about another 1/2 degree but that comes at a rideheight compromise. Somehow the originalGM T1 kit got the rear to get to -3.5 but I have never seen that set-up. I would love more negative camber. My tires roll over badly on a stock T1 suspension.