QuarterMaster Clutch Qs...
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
QuarterMaster Clutch Qs...
I did search and found some good threads, but I still have a bucket of questions about the QM clutches.
My other option would be an RPS Billet/Carbon triple (no cheap proposition itself) that is still pretty damn light, holding up to over 900RWHP (and over 800RWTQ) in my buddy's ~3200lbs C6Z06, and is street drivable (somewhat on/off and it chatters if you get it wrong, but I was just rolling around in the 900RHWP C6Z last night and it wasn't bad).
-TJ
- Do any CF vendors sell them?
- What is the right setup for a 3100lbs 600 RWHP C5Z?
- Just how on/off are they?
- Could they be used in a car that is also AutoXed - i.e. if I have to bump it up through the staging lanes is that going to kill the clutch (I really don't want to have to be one of those guys that has to push his car up as his line moves to the start)
- What do they actually weigh?
- Other things I need to consider (I did read about the adapter you need to make for the slave line coming off the master, as well as setting a clutch pedal stop)
My other option would be an RPS Billet/Carbon triple (no cheap proposition itself) that is still pretty damn light, holding up to over 900RWHP (and over 800RWTQ) in my buddy's ~3200lbs C6Z06, and is street drivable (somewhat on/off and it chatters if you get it wrong, but I was just rolling around in the 900RHWP C6Z last night and it wasn't bad).
-TJ
#2
Drifting
My buddy as a QM 5" (maybe 5.25 or 5.5, but you get the idea) in his ASA car behind a LS1. The engine makes about 500HP and the car weighs 2600. I have driven it a number of times and can tell you that it is absolutely on/off. With no flywheel, you can't just bump the car forward. Unless you get the wheels spinning, you're going to stall it.
I would avoid starting and stopping as much as possible. When it does slip, it can easily destroy the reaction plates as well as the friction plates. By the time you're done replacing all that, it's $1000 just in parts. These clutches do not like to slip at all.
I assume most of this applies to a full body Corvette, but your mileage may vary. I am also assuming you are talking about using this clutch without a flywheel. If you were using it with a flywheel (I don't even know if you can) some of these problems would go away.
Ken
I would avoid starting and stopping as much as possible. When it does slip, it can easily destroy the reaction plates as well as the friction plates. By the time you're done replacing all that, it's $1000 just in parts. These clutches do not like to slip at all.
I assume most of this applies to a full body Corvette, but your mileage may vary. I am also assuming you are talking about using this clutch without a flywheel. If you were using it with a flywheel (I don't even know if you can) some of these problems would go away.
Ken
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
My buddy as a QM 5" (maybe 5.25 or 5.5, but you get the idea) in his ASA car behind a LS1. The engine makes about 500HP and the car weighs 2600. I have driven it a number of times and can tell you that it is absolutely on/off. With no flywheel, you can't just bump the car forward. Unless you get the wheels spinning, you're going to stall it.
I would avoid starting and stopping as much as possible. When it does slip, it can easily destroy the reaction plates as well as the friction plates. By the time you're done replacing all that, it's $1000 just in parts. These clutches do not like to slip at all.
I assume most of this applies to a full body Corvette, but your mileage may vary. I am also assuming you are talking about using this clutch without a flywheel. If you were using it with a flywheel (I don't even know if you can) some of these problems would go away.
Ken
I would avoid starting and stopping as much as possible. When it does slip, it can easily destroy the reaction plates as well as the friction plates. By the time you're done replacing all that, it's $1000 just in parts. These clutches do not like to slip at all.
I assume most of this applies to a full body Corvette, but your mileage may vary. I am also assuming you are talking about using this clutch without a flywheel. If you were using it with a flywheel (I don't even know if you can) some of these problems would go away.
Ken
I also wonder how this even works out for ppl that do HPDEs. If you're starting from pit-lane and are back in the pack some you might have to bump forward a few times. Some groups I run with have the "starter" walk back so that the cars don't have to scoot forward, but some groups expect you to come up to the starter (lame).
-TJ
#5
Race Director
the parts required are on my pdf linked above, you can get pricing from any racing vendor, say HRP etc
505178 5.5" flywheel
505007 crank bolts-metric
395090 clutch assembly
305508 clutch bolt kit (bolts clutch to flywheel)
730015 bearing adapter to torque tube
730185 release bearing
You use an OEM automatic flexplate from a Camaro for simply starting the car (ring gear), and the actual flywheel is a 5.5" button flywheel as seen in the PDF.
Removing the steel flywheel and clutch will reduce your mass from around 50lbs to around 20lbs....more or less...
505178 5.5" flywheel
505007 crank bolts-metric
395090 clutch assembly
305508 clutch bolt kit (bolts clutch to flywheel)
730015 bearing adapter to torque tube
730185 release bearing
You use an OEM automatic flexplate from a Camaro for simply starting the car (ring gear), and the actual flywheel is a 5.5" button flywheel as seen in the PDF.
Removing the steel flywheel and clutch will reduce your mass from around 50lbs to around 20lbs....more or less...
#6
Race Director
the parts required are on my pdf linked above, you can get pricing from any racing vendor, say HRP etc
505178 5.5" flywheel
505007 crank bolts-metric
395090 clutch assembly
305508 clutch bolt kit (bolts clutch to flywheel)
730015 bearing adapter to torque tube
730185 release bearing
You use an OEM automatic flexplate from a Camaro for simply starting the car (ring gear), and the actual flywheel is a 5.5" button flywheel as seen in the PDF.
Removing the steel flywheel and clutch will reduce your mass from around 50lbs to around 20lbs....more or less...
505178 5.5" flywheel
505007 crank bolts-metric
395090 clutch assembly
305508 clutch bolt kit (bolts clutch to flywheel)
730015 bearing adapter to torque tube
730185 release bearing
You use an OEM automatic flexplate from a Camaro for simply starting the car (ring gear), and the actual flywheel is a 5.5" button flywheel as seen in the PDF.
Removing the steel flywheel and clutch will reduce your mass from around 50lbs to around 20lbs....more or less...
no reverse drive starter available? that will reduce your "moment of inertia" even more.
#7
Racer
It is a substantial difference in the real world performance of the car, especially in the lower gears.
#8
Race Director
during my pro days, no one made a reverse-drive and starter ring......it wasn't legal in World Challenge anyway.........well not until Cadillac came along a re-wrote the rule book.
There probably is a setup now.
There probably is a setup now.
#9
Racer
if I have to slip it, it is for a very short duration, and I try to keep the revs down. having the short 1st gear of the M12 helps get it locked up and rolling quickly, if you had a really close ratio road race gear box with a tall 1st gear, it could be a pain
the best thing about it, is the much much better than OEM hydraulics. full release, every time, in any situation.
it is a lot trickier to install than a stock style clutch
#10
Former Vendor
You might want to consider Quartermaster 8.5" twin disc. That is what I am running in my car. Substantial weight savings, though I don't remember the exact number, it was more then 20 pounds. Much better hydraulics, better clamping force. It is not quite an on/off style clutch, though it is close. If you are talking about moving up one car length in line, then you probably won't like it. You can get it going though without doing a burnout. I will not load the car on the trailer with it though.
Robert Finlayson
Performance AFX Motorsports
Robert Finlayson
Performance AFX Motorsports
#11
Race Director
I agree with drivinhard that the 5.5 can be slipped quite a bit, although you want to avoid it as much as possible. I ran several seasons with them in World Challenge where I DROVE the car into the trailer.
I also don't find them difficult to install, just drilling a hole for the new hydraulic lines, and having a fitting made up, make the initial install a bit more time consuming. After that, it's very straightforward.
I also don't find them difficult to install, just drilling a hole for the new hydraulic lines, and having a fitting made up, make the initial install a bit more time consuming. After that, it's very straightforward.
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I ended up just going with an RPS Billet/Carbon triple since I still want to be able to pull the car on/off trailers, bump it up easily at AutoX or on grid at track days, and maybe even street drive it a tiny bit.
Thanks for all of the advice/help regardless!
-TJ
Thanks for all of the advice/help regardless!
-TJ
#13
Racer
You might want to consider Quartermaster 8.5" twin disc. That is what I am running in my car. Substantial weight savings, though I don't remember the exact number, it was more then 20 pounds. Much better hydraulics, better clamping force. It is not quite an on/off style clutch, though it is close. If you are talking about moving up one car length in line, then you probably won't like it. You can get it going though without doing a burnout. I will not load the car on the trailer with it though.
Robert Finlayson
Performance AFX Motorsports
Robert Finlayson
Performance AFX Motorsports
#14
Drifting
The 8.5 in quartermaster with twin rally material discs and lightweight steel quartermaster flywheel will work. It is not on/off unless your running a 1.75 first gear. The rally material on disc (.250 rather than .105) makes it a sweet setup.
#15
Racer
I can vouch this was an honest .75 sec/lap (free rules) mod. There are 2-3 pt mods in TT/PT rules that won't even get you half that.
#16
Drifting
#17
Racer
#18
Le Mans Master
#19
Racer
checked the discs tonight, no visable or measurable wear after 5 days and a decent bit of street driving. no dust/residue in the bell housing.
so far so good. it's got a bit more chattery as it's worn in, but it is what it is. the manors/engagement/noise is a non-issue for what I do with the car.