Ttb c4
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ttb c4
Anyone ever set up a C4 for TTB? I am looking for some info from people who have played around with different setups and found something that works. I want to start setting my car up to run by the end of the year. It looks like my current points would be
TTC + 7
Shocks 3
Sways 2
Exhaust 2
Brakes 2
A6 13
I need to find about 5 seconds at Road Atlanta to be in the ballpark(1:45 now, want to get under 1:40). I am running 315 NT01s right now and want to switch to A6s. 275s preferebly or 255s and use the other 4 points for tire size increase somewhere else. Anybody been down this road before?
TTC + 7
Shocks 3
Sways 2
Exhaust 2
Brakes 2
A6 13
I need to find about 5 seconds at Road Atlanta to be in the ballpark(1:45 now, want to get under 1:40). I am running 315 NT01s right now and want to switch to A6s. 275s preferebly or 255s and use the other 4 points for tire size increase somewhere else. Anybody been down this road before?
#2
Safety Car
I can offer some help, but my car is set up for TTA/PTA. Hoosiers have been the tire of choice, but now the A6 comes with a steep +13 penalty. V710's may creep into favor here.
Obvious questions first, have you done all of the free mods allowed? What's your current power to weight ratio? Can you remove weight?
Obvious questions first, have you done all of the free mods allowed? What's your current power to weight ratio? Can you remove weight?
#3
Le Mans Master
Why are you taking 2 pts for brakes? (+7 tells me you have a 92 & up, j55 became stock so use the update rule for 0 pts)
The car will work fine with 275 square!
What shocks are you using?
I assume the 2 pts for exhaust is catback? If so return to stock - it doesn't help much on an LT1
OR
Headers, relocated/deleted cats, cat back is 5pts, then add a good dyno tune (0 pts for a piggy back chip), use a high flow air filter (0 pts) - don't cut the air lid
Have you replaced all the suspension bushings with poly yet?
I just need bigger marbles now that I went to TTA. I can do a 1:40 if I had the marbles.
The car will work fine with 275 square!
What shocks are you using?
I assume the 2 pts for exhaust is catback? If so return to stock - it doesn't help much on an LT1
OR
Headers, relocated/deleted cats, cat back is 5pts, then add a good dyno tune (0 pts for a piggy back chip), use a high flow air filter (0 pts) - don't cut the air lid
Have you replaced all the suspension bushings with poly yet?
I just need bigger marbles now that I went to TTA. I can do a 1:40 if I had the marbles.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I don't know my power to weight ratio right now. I took out about 250 pounds but then put in a cage. No mods to the engine and it has 100k miles on it, so I doubt it is making much power. Can you give me a rundown on the free mods?
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Car came with C5 calipers on the front when I got it. I have straight pipes running out the back which saved about 30 pounds when the mufflers were cut off. I could put them back on though if the two points can be use somewhere else.
Shocks are Bilsteins about 4 years old and it has poly bushings.
Shocks are Bilsteins about 4 years old and it has poly bushings.
#8
Le Mans Master
#9
Le Mans Master
I have c5 caliper brakets for a conversion - never used the darn things.
Have to get my crap together and sell them. My brake upgrade will be a big brake kit for the front - only $1700
My j55's are sufficient for 120-130 down to 50ish for 10A at Road Atl. I am running xp12/10.
I had to have mine wieghed and a dyno done because I swapped in a 383 - Balanced Peformance has a good deal for us guys. It was around $100 for both.
Your engine is where mine was last year. If you don't run NCCC events a lightweight flywheel and new clutch would help getting power out of the old engine.
#10
Safety Car
Car came with C5 calipers on the front when I got it. I have straight pipes running out the back which saved about 30 pounds when the mufflers were cut off. I could put them back on though if the two points can be use somewhere else.
Shocks are Bilsteins about 4 years old and it has poly bushings.
Shocks are Bilsteins about 4 years old and it has poly bushings.
You can send your Bilsteins in and have them custom valved and not take points for them...something like $55 apiece.
I agree with jaa, I ran (run) 275 square when I drive TTA. Helps with the p/w ratio. I'm not sure I'd take points for sway bars in a car that close to stock. A little roll is nice.
I think the two places I'd go to use my points are brakes and power on a C4. I never thought I'd say that, but some juice under the hood will help in TTB. Maybe a set of longtube headers to get some torque.
And you ABSOLUTELY need to optimize your p/w ratio. This is completely free and the best mod you can do. What is it in B, 10.5:1?
Last edited by ScaryFast; 03-19-2011 at 08:01 AM.
#12
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: If you don't weigh in you don't wrestle Road America
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3) Non-OEM or modified/re-valved shocks/struts/dampers +3 (all others)(springs not included)
From the mods listed above the OP still has 16 points to play with to stay in TTB. At 3201 lbs you will have to get to around 310 rwhp to get to 10.25/1. So if you're really around 250 rwhp, I'd try to figure out a way to get closer to 310. Because once you start going below 3201 you will have to use points for weight reduction and you will take a hit on the power to weight.
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
+50 rwhp doesn't seem like an easy task. It looks like a cam and roller rockers would be +6 but I don't know where that would get me in terms of rwhp with no other mods.
#15
Safety Car
There is a 255 tire that is a bit "wider", but I think it's only available in 18". I know Carlyle was experimenting with this but bailed when we moved to ST2.
Keep in mind that 3201 is with the driver, so you can get the car to about 3000 - 3050 depending on how much you weigh wearing all your gear, helmet, etc. So...to get us to 310 RWHP with 16 points. Hmmm...
+2 Headers
+2 Throttle body
+6 Cam
+1 Remove cats
+2 3" exhaust
+0 1.6" Roller rocker
For +6 Heads would be a big jump in HP. Maybe ditch the TB? But this is starting to cost lots of money. TTB seems to be a nasty middle ground for a C4. TTC* + A6's may be the place to go
Keep in mind that 3201 is with the driver, so you can get the car to about 3000 - 3050 depending on how much you weigh wearing all your gear, helmet, etc. So...to get us to 310 RWHP with 16 points. Hmmm...
+2 Headers
+2 Throttle body
+6 Cam
+1 Remove cats
+2 3" exhaust
+0 1.6" Roller rocker
For +6 Heads would be a big jump in HP. Maybe ditch the TB? But this is starting to cost lots of money. TTB seems to be a nasty middle ground for a C4. TTC* + A6's may be the place to go
#17
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: If you don't weigh in you don't wrestle Road America
Posts: 3,031
Likes: 0
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There is a 255 tire that is a bit "wider", but I think it's only available in 18". I know Carlyle was experimenting with this but bailed when we moved to ST2.
Keep in mind that 3201 is with the driver, so you can get the car to about 3000 - 3050 depending on how much you weigh wearing all your gear, helmet, etc. So...to get us to 310 RWHP with 16 points. Hmmm...
+2 Headers
+2 Throttle body
+6 Cam
+1 Remove cats
+2 3" exhaust
+0 1.6" Roller rocker
For +6 Heads would be a big jump in HP. Maybe ditch the TB? But this is starting to cost lots of money. TTB seems to be a nasty middle ground for a C4. TTC* + A6's may be the place to go
Keep in mind that 3201 is with the driver, so you can get the car to about 3000 - 3050 depending on how much you weigh wearing all your gear, helmet, etc. So...to get us to 310 RWHP with 16 points. Hmmm...
+2 Headers
+2 Throttle body
+6 Cam
+1 Remove cats
+2 3" exhaust
+0 1.6" Roller rocker
For +6 Heads would be a big jump in HP. Maybe ditch the TB? But this is starting to cost lots of money. TTB seems to be a nasty middle ground for a C4. TTC* + A6's may be the place to go
Also remember 1.6 Roller rockers are only +0 if you are already taking +6 for the cam. If you shoot for a target # you may also be able to get a dyno reclass and see where you end up.
Another option is just to use all your points on weight reduction.
13 points gets you 199 lbs so you could weigh in at 3005 lbs and then you could dyno up to 287 rwhp.
- or use all 16 points for 244 lbs so you could weigh 2960 and dyno at 280 rwhp.
I'm not sure how light you can get the car, but weight reduction is cheaper than hp -to a certian point. One thing that sucks about cutting weight though is that you take a hit on points and on your hp/weight.
This is what makes NASA so cool there are probably 100 different ways for you to use the points given to you, how to best use them is a matter of trial and error.
#18
Racer
The great thing about weight though, is as a general rule, 100 lbs is 1-1.5 sec/lap virtually guaranteed!
#19
Le Mans Master
If you do ANY engine mods get a Dyno reclass! It may save you from having to take the points!
My 383 is NOT tuned very well, it put down 315 rwhp and Greg gave me three options at 3500 lb comp weight, TTB, TTB* and TTB**
I'm using TTB** in the hopes I can get a better tune and get to 350rwhp. Any higher and I'll have to bug him for another reclass.
My 383 is NOT tuned very well, it put down 315 rwhp and Greg gave me three options at 3500 lb comp weight, TTB, TTB* and TTB**
I'm using TTB** in the hopes I can get a better tune and get to 350rwhp. Any higher and I'll have to bug him for another reclass.
#20
Safety Car
Another option is just to use all your points on weight reduction.
13 points gets you 199 lbs so you could weigh in at 3005 lbs and then you could dyno up to 287 rwhp.
- or use all 16 points for 244 lbs so you could weigh 2960 and dyno at 280 rwhp.
I'm not sure how light you can get the car, but weight reduction is cheaper than hp -to a certian point. One thing that sucks about cutting weight though is that you take a hit on points and on your hp/weight.
13 points gets you 199 lbs so you could weigh in at 3005 lbs and then you could dyno up to 287 rwhp.
- or use all 16 points for 244 lbs so you could weigh 2960 and dyno at 280 rwhp.
I'm not sure how light you can get the car, but weight reduction is cheaper than hp -to a certian point. One thing that sucks about cutting weight though is that you take a hit on points and on your hp/weight.
That's 8 points in weight reduction, leaving 6 for a cam and 2 for an exhaust.
Maybe?