DIY SKF hub install?
03-28-2011, 11:28 AM
#2
Safety Car
I can't remember seeing a DIY how-to, but one bit of advice. Do not use a pickle fork to seperate the balljoints, you'll tear the boots and have to replace them. A normal balljoint seperator won't fit a C5/C6 setup either. For awhile I used a 2-arm pulley puller, but when I finally broke that I bought the proper Kent-Moore Corvette balljoint tool off of eBay for around $70 shipped. Money well spent.... I can get the balljoints apart in 30 seconds w/o worry of damage or trying to fit a pulley puller in there.
Also, if yours has never been apart the rears may be very hard to get the axle splines seperated from the hub as they'll be fused together with rust. get the axle nut off and douse it with penetrating lube i.e. PB Blaster and let it sit overnight, then use a 3-arm pulley puller to pop it free... that is if you can't get them lose to begin with.
Lastly, make sure you get the 3 hub bolts torqued to the proper 96 ft/lbs using red loc-tite... I've seen more than a few back out on track. This can be very hard to do with the spindle off the car. I found the best way to do it was to get them good n' tight using a big ratchet on my work bench, then take a towel to protect the spindle and clamp it in a good vice to achieve the final 96 ft/lbs.
HTH
EDIT - Duh... here's the how-tos: http://www.jakelatham.com/C5/misc/
Also, if yours has never been apart the rears may be very hard to get the axle splines seperated from the hub as they'll be fused together with rust. get the axle nut off and douse it with penetrating lube i.e. PB Blaster and let it sit overnight, then use a 3-arm pulley puller to pop it free... that is if you can't get them lose to begin with.
Lastly, make sure you get the 3 hub bolts torqued to the proper 96 ft/lbs using red loc-tite... I've seen more than a few back out on track. This can be very hard to do with the spindle off the car. I found the best way to do it was to get them good n' tight using a big ratchet on my work bench, then take a towel to protect the spindle and clamp it in a good vice to achieve the final 96 ft/lbs.
HTH
EDIT - Duh... here's the how-tos: http://www.jakelatham.com/C5/misc/
Last edited by travisnd; 03-28-2011 at 11:31 AM.
03-28-2011, 11:33 AM
#3
Drifting
I can't remember seeing a DIY how-to, but one bit of advice. Do not use a pickle fork to seperate the balljoints, you'll tear the boots and have to replace them. A normal balljoint seperator won't fit a C5/C6 setup either. For awhile I used a 2-arm pulley puller, but when I finally broke that I bought the proper Kent-Moore Corvette balljoint tool off of eBay for around $70 shipped. Money well spent.... I can get the balljoints apart in 30 seconds w/o worry of damage or trying to fit a pulley puller in there.
Also, if yours has never been apart the rears may be very hard to get the axle splines seperated from the hub as they'll be fused together with rust. get the axle nut off and douse it with penetrating lube i.e. PB Blaster and let it sit overnight, then use a 3-arm pulley puller to pop it free... that is if you can't get them lose to begin with.
Lastly, make sure you get the 3 hub bolts torqued to the proper 96 ft/lbs using red loc-tite... I've seen more than a few back out on track. This can be very hard to do with the spindle off the car. I found the best way to do it was to get them good n' tight using a big ratchet on my work bench, then take a towel to protect the spindle and clamp it in a good vice to achieve the final 96 ft/lbs.
HTH
EDIT - Duh... here's the how-tos: http://www.jakelatham.com/C5/misc/
Also, if yours has never been apart the rears may be very hard to get the axle splines seperated from the hub as they'll be fused together with rust. get the axle nut off and douse it with penetrating lube i.e. PB Blaster and let it sit overnight, then use a 3-arm pulley puller to pop it free... that is if you can't get them lose to begin with.
Lastly, make sure you get the 3 hub bolts torqued to the proper 96 ft/lbs using red loc-tite... I've seen more than a few back out on track. This can be very hard to do with the spindle off the car. I found the best way to do it was to get them good n' tight using a big ratchet on my work bench, then take a towel to protect the spindle and clamp it in a good vice to achieve the final 96 ft/lbs.
HTH
EDIT - Duh... here's the how-tos: http://www.jakelatham.com/C5/misc/
03-28-2011, 11:50 AM
#4
Safety Car
03-28-2011, 12:59 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Harriman Tennessee
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I can't remember seeing a DIY how-to, but one bit of advice. Do not use a pickle fork to seperate the balljoints, you'll tear the boots and have to replace them. A normal balljoint seperator won't fit a C5/C6 setup either. For awhile I used a 2-arm pulley puller, but when I finally broke that I bought the proper Kent-Moore Corvette balljoint tool off of eBay for around $70 shipped. Money well spent.... I can get the balljoints apart in 30 seconds w/o worry of damage or trying to fit a pulley puller in there.
Also, if yours has never been apart the rears may be very hard to get the axle splines seperated from the hub as they'll be fused together with rust. get the axle nut off and douse it with penetrating lube i.e. PB Blaster and let it sit overnight, then use a 3-arm pulley puller to pop it free... that is if you can't get them lose to begin with.
Lastly, make sure you get the 3 hub bolts torqued to the proper 96 ft/lbs using red loc-tite... I've seen more than a few back out on track. This can be very hard to do with the spindle off the car. I found the best way to do it was to get them good n' tight using a big ratchet on my work bench, then take a towel to protect the spindle and clamp it in a good vice to achieve the final 96 ft/lbs.
HTH
EDIT - Duh... here's the how-tos: http://www.jakelatham.com/C5/misc/
Also, if yours has never been apart the rears may be very hard to get the axle splines seperated from the hub as they'll be fused together with rust. get the axle nut off and douse it with penetrating lube i.e. PB Blaster and let it sit overnight, then use a 3-arm pulley puller to pop it free... that is if you can't get them lose to begin with.
Lastly, make sure you get the 3 hub bolts torqued to the proper 96 ft/lbs using red loc-tite... I've seen more than a few back out on track. This can be very hard to do with the spindle off the car. I found the best way to do it was to get them good n' tight using a big ratchet on my work bench, then take a towel to protect the spindle and clamp it in a good vice to achieve the final 96 ft/lbs.
HTH
EDIT - Duh... here's the how-tos: http://www.jakelatham.com/C5/misc/
03-28-2011, 01:55 PM
#9
Safety Car
A mechanic buddy told me to loosen the nut then smach the spindle with a hammer as hard as I could and the vibrations created will make the BJ shaft pop loose.... I've never had the guts to do it on an aluminum Corvette part.
03-28-2011, 02:28 PM
#10
Race Director
Works all the time for my lowers if the car has been apart recently, but I can't get it to work for the uppers and they usually fight more than the lowers. On a car that's never been apart I've never had the board trick or your method work.
A mechanic buddy told me to loosen the nut then smach the spindle with a hammer as hard as I could and the vibrations created will make the BJ shaft pop loose.... I've never had the guts to do it on an aluminum Corvette part.
A mechanic buddy told me to loosen the nut then smach the spindle with a hammer as hard as I could and the vibrations created will make the BJ shaft pop loose.... I've never had the guts to do it on an aluminum Corvette part.
03-28-2011, 02:38 PM
#11
Safety Car
03-28-2011, 09:57 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
03-28-2011, 11:07 PM
#15
03-29-2011, 02:09 AM
#16
Le Mans Master
06-07-2012, 08:50 PM
#18
Melting Slicks
About the same, but I took the entire spindle off. Don't know if you have to. But I don't think there is room to get to all of the bolts out without taking it off. Also one bolt on each side was really tight and I never would have gotten it out on the car. Just take off the axle nut and undo the upper and lower ball joints. Take off the e-brake cable and the speed sensor along with the tie rod from the Spindle. And you are good to go. You would also want disconnect the shock and sway bar from the lower control arm. JD
06-08-2012, 08:56 AM
#20
Drifting
Take the rear toe link off first........makes taking the caliper off easier as now it will 'rotate' for better access to the bolts..........and definitely helps when applying the 125 ft lbs of torque when reassembling. You don't have to crawl around under the car.