davidfarmer

know it's been asked before, but can't remember. Will the shorter ARP studs install without removing the front hubs?????

oh, and don't have a stock stud handy, how much spacer will the shorter ARP 2.5" studs allow?? I need at least 1/4"

Thanks!

travisnd

No... you have to remove the hubs to get the ARPs in/out.

drivinhard

you can change them with the hub in place, barely

travisnd

Enlighten me please... how?

drivinhard

if you have brake cooling ducts you'll have to remove them (depending on what type you have).

there is a recessed portion of the spindle casting that you can barely fish the stud in from. I have a "tool" I made from a lug nut and a pilot bearing I use with the impact to draw them in, 1 by 1

John Shiels

how do you draw them out?

travisnd

I had ARPs on my old Z06 that didn't have spindle ducts and I couldn't get them out no matter what part of the spindle I lined them up with. Wonder if there's some production variance in the spindles? Plus I couldn't remove my ECS ducts w/o removing the hub first anyway!

Quick smack with a hammer or mini-sledge. Do it quick and hard and you won't hurt the hub. When I have hubs off the car I support the flange in my vice but still use the hammer method.

Then to draw them in I clamp the hub in the same vice vertically and use 3 washers and a lug nut threaded on backwards then a big wrench. They pull right in easily (even with the larger ARP splines) w/o having to risk damaging the treads with an impact. It's all about leverage

davidfarmer

I've changed OEM studs, I know you can get them out. The shorter ARP's are about the same size, but don't have the unthreaded end. I thought you could do it, but trying to confirm. So 1 yes, a couple "no's".

Still counting!

Oyishdog

I vote for just remove the hub...I have had to change mine out so frequently I can do it in my sleep and probably less time.

travisnd

David yes you can do the oems w/o issue, but even the shortest ARPs are an inch longer than stock. If you've already installed them pop one free with a hammer and see if you can get it out and reprot back

John Shiels

I am not sure it is good to smack them out with a hammer. Has anyone driven them out with an air tool punch?

travisnd

The force it takes to beat it out has to be less than the forces they see hitting potholes with 3000lbs of car on top of them. I've never had an issue with it and you really don't have to hit them very hard to make them pop out.

mgarfias

I use the kent-moore tool that chevy specs in the book. Can't remember if its the one for the lower ball joints, or the one spec'd for the studs themselves.

You can easily get the old stud out in the front, but even the shorter ARPs made it a bit difficult to get in so I yanked the hub.

travisnd

I have the KM balljoint seperator and tried it on one of the studs and it wasn't budging easily.... so I removed it and went back to my hammer method.

But in this case the hub was off the car sitting in my vice.

varkwso

I can do it with oem but cannot do it with ARP short studs (a smidge too long). But Drivinhard must a made a "lightening cut" on his spindles....

travisnd

That's what I'm thinking

dbratten

Stock studs are 2" and can be removed without taking off the hub. The fully threaded DRM 2 1/8" studs can also be installed without removal. But, I really doubt a 2 1/2" stud can be. Besides, it's faster to take off the hub anyway.

There are just the three ball joints to smack with a hammer to pop loose, hit the hub bolts with an impact, and take the hub to a press. Plus, it's mandatory to remove the hub on the rear where the only extra steps are to remove the axle nut and lower shock bolt.

As an aside, I've removed studs with a big C-clamp using a socket as a standoff on the backside.

To your second question, you'll be gaining nearly 3/4" of thread (as they are fully threaded vs. OEM) on the new studs and can use up to that much spacer.

flink

It's not a very hard hit. I press a 4lb lump of steel as hard as I can against the rear of the hub while hitting the stud. To absorb some of the energy, be nice to the bearings.

John Shiels

Only thing is it would be a different direction of load and no tire either. i have no recollection how I did mine it has been a while. I may have pressed them out. I guess a tool could be made fairly easy to tighten a bolt and push them out. i guess it depends on how long they have been in there also for the difficulty factor of removal.

I still doubt you will see many race teams hammering them out unless it's a pit in & out

I do have the Kent Moore tool for the ball joints I would have to look and see how that works on the studs as mentioned above.

John Shiels

http://www.costplustools.com/Kent-Mo...er_p_9563.html

probably worth the money I didn't see a price listed on a few sites I looked at but I bet it's 50-60 bucks. I think it is more from looking at the other tools. I bought mine a long time ago.


http://www.costplustools.com/Kent-Mo...ol_p_9543.html


I think my tool is like this http://www.costplustools.com/Kent-Mo...ER_p_9496.html