Kill switch... which one?
04-16-2011, 08:08 PM
#2
In my old race car I used the flaming river battery / alternator cut off switch. It wasn't a handle it was more a **** that you hit to kill power, and twist to power back up.
04-17-2011, 01:51 PM
#5
Instructor
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Brian,
You're going to need a 4-pole or 6-pole switch minimum like the Sytec found here:
http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant...Category_Code=
I just installed that one a few weeks ago to kill the battery and alternator when the switch is disconnected. The initial two pole version installed did nothing to stop the alternator and the engine kept running on.
John
E36 LS2
You're going to need a 4-pole or 6-pole switch minimum like the Sytec found here:
http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant...Category_Code=
I just installed that one a few weeks ago to kill the battery and alternator when the switch is disconnected. The initial two pole version installed did nothing to stop the alternator and the engine kept running on.
John
E36 LS2
04-17-2011, 05:38 PM
#9
Le Mans Master
Jason beat me to it. 
There are a lot of people doing extra work out there, so here is an easier way to do this. I guess having a EE degree does have it's benefits after all.
The tricky part about this is that the battery cable positive terminal has two connections. One wire goes to the alternator, and the other to the distribution box. If you simply pull the positive cable off of the battery, the car will continue to run, as the alternator is supplying power to the distribution panel, which feeds the vehicle electrical system.
What is needed is to remove the power from the distribution panel. If this is done, it doesn't matter what the alternator is doing, everything is dead.
All you need to do is cut the cable between the battery and the distribution panel, and put your switch in series. Here are some pictures to illustrate.
The tricky part about this is that the battery cable positive terminal has two connections. One wire goes to the alternator, and the other to the distribution box. If you simply pull the positive cable off of the battery, the car will continue to run, as the alternator is supplying power to the distribution panel, which feeds the vehicle electrical system.
What is needed is to remove the power from the distribution panel. If this is done, it doesn't matter what the alternator is doing, everything is dead.
All you need to do is cut the cable between the battery and the distribution panel, and put your switch in series. Here are some pictures to illustrate.
04-17-2011, 10:08 PM
#11
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Yeah I've seen Tim's thread on which wire to tap into. John has a LSX in a Bimmer so his may be different.
Seems most all of them I'm seeing have the removable key.
Seems most all of them I'm seeing have the removable key.
04-17-2011, 11:15 PM
#12
Race Director
just safety-wire it to the dash.........
btw the wiring is simple. Easiest way is to disconnect the alternator wire AT the alternator, then run a new wire directly from the alternator to the "hot" side of your switch. I prefer to run a new line instead of cutting up the OEM wiring.
btw the wiring is simple. Easiest way is to disconnect the alternator wire AT the alternator, then run a new wire directly from the alternator to the "hot" side of your switch. I prefer to run a new line instead of cutting up the OEM wiring.
Last edited by davidfarmer; 04-17-2011 at 11:19 PM.
