Maynor29

Anyone have a reputable Tremec/TR6060 transmission shop they'd recommend in the northeast or mid-Atlantic area.. ideally, near Philly?

My 1.5 year old TR6060 won't go into reverse and is fighting me on WOT downshifts...besides being notchy overall

I'd love to be able to drop off/pick-up locally (Philly) to save on shipping costs but would prefer a reputable shop with fairly quick turn around.

All suggestions welcome.

John

wallyman424

Dont mess around john, send it to george at RSG! Theyre about a 2 hour drive from you in Sloatsburg NY.

Didja get the clutch MC issue sorted?

travisnd

Another very reputable transmission shop on here is RPM Transmissions, but they're not in your immediate area.

http://www.rpmtransmissions.com/

Painrace

Trust RPM! They are as good as it gets.

Jim

Maynor29

Not yet on the MC. Still trying to figure out if its the chicken or the egg. Did you say you were running a 3/4 or 7/8 MC Wally?

RX-Ben

RKT

wallyman424

7/8, stock is 3/4

RX-Ben

What clutch are you using?

wallyman424

He's running a LS2 swapped into an e36 BMW. He currently has the stock clutch in there with the stock BMW master cylinder.

Maynor29

Stock LS7 clutch actually, through the BMW master cylinder. It may not be enough master cylinder though. Still trying to diagnose that part before I throw more $$ at it but its likely going to need an upgrade.

wallyman424

Do you know what the stock bmw size MC is?

Edit: quick google shows stock e36 m3 MC is 3/4". Is yours an M3?

travisnd

I'd make sure you've got the clutch squared away first. Read a few stories on here where people have gotten a gearbox rebuilt when they're chasing a symptom of an improperly operating clutch.

RX-Ben

Same problem I had with my POS Spec. Check your TOB distance. You may need to shim (aim for .15"). I had proper clearance. If you do too, a larger MC will get more travel out of the slave as well, but your 3/4" should work w/the proper TOB distance.
How long have you driven w/this condition? Your tranny might be ok. Mine survived a weekend of abuse (well, couldn't really abuse it but even super slow shifting felt crappy) w/the above condition.

Maynor29

Wally, thanks for that data point on the 3/4" size of the MC. Yes, its an M3 setup.

Brian, good point about the clutch. I'm going to have the tranny pulled and checkout the condition of the clutch.

Ben, question for you or anyone that knows, idling in neutral, the TOB (at least I think its the TOB) makes a loud whirring noise. When I press in the clutch while still in neutral, the noise goes away. I don't know enough about clutches/tranny's (engine guy). Is this a sign the TOB isn't spaced correctly?

The shifting issue has been getting progressively worse the past 5 events or so. Today, reverse would not work at all. It goes into the reverse gate just fine but engage the clutch and lots of gear grinding ensues. Double clutching didn't help.

Pretty sure that syncro is gone but who knows...

wallyman424

IIRC Reverse has no synchro

Heres a quick way to test your clutch engagement. Put car in neutral, rev high, clutch in, put into 1st w/ clutch still pushed in, if the car kicks forward a bit, your clutch is not fully disengaging.

Could also be that your clutch is just beat to hell.

RX-Ben

Whirring noise isn't good. Not sure what it could be, perhaps the TOB is damaged and rubbing (i.e. still touching the moving clutch and might be spinning).
You may have broken something (plastic fork pad) which is why reverse isn't working.
5 events is a lot for a tranny to handle on a malfunctioning clutch. Be sure to nail down the clearances (and install a new slave) before installing the repaired tranny.

Anyway, my guess is that you have some broken parts. Figure out the cause before reinstalling anything.

Maynor29

Thanks guys. Wally, nice idea on the 1st gear thing.. I'll try that tomorrow.

RX-Ben

If your situation is like mine, the issue is too large of a TOB gap. Actually my issue was a **** poor design of the diaphragm, but the effect is the same: the slave's range of motion (given the M/C bore size) is not enough to fully disengage the clutch.

CP Thunder

Rockland Standard Gear..........nuff said.......

Black89Z51

[QUOTE=Maynor29]Ben, question for you or anyone that knows, idling in neutral, the TOB (at least I think its the TOB) makes a loud whirring noise. When I press in the clutch while still in neutral, the noise goes away. I don't know enough about clutches/tranny's (engine guy). Is this a sign the TOB isn't spaced correctly?
QUOTE]

I bet it's a bearing, or bearings in the transmission. When you release the clutch the transmission shafts inside, that were engaged with the clutch out, stop spinning and the noise goes away. Since your going to have the transmission out, you can check the TOB for smoothness, and also rotate the input shaft by hand and see if it makes any abnormal noises.

If it's the TOB, the noise should go away when you put a slight amount of pressure on the clutch pedal. Give that a try since the car is still in running condition.

I'd go with the first gear thing too. If the clutch is in, and the car jerks forward or starts to creep if you get it into gear, you aren't getting enough travel from the slave. If you can't get it in gear at all while running, and you can while the car is off, that's a good indication that there isn't enough travel as well.