MP3

I am going to be running on Hoosier R6's for the first time in a few weeks at Road Atlanta in my C6 Z06. I'm trying to get an idea of what sort of negative camber setups everyone was running. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

MP3

jlutherva

MP3,
Here are the Pfadt alignment specs. I'm also running R6's for the first time next weekend and I just had my alignment set to the "Performance Street - Track Use with Race Tires" spec. I'll be running RA July 30-31 with Chin Motorsports and will have the poly bushings, corner weighting, height adjustment and the more aggressive alignment done by then.

The consensus opinion on this forum seems to be is that -1.6 to -1.8 camber is probably not enough and we will be wearing out tires out pretty fast...

Jim

sperkins

What class and what's your experience level?

MP3

I've run 7-8 weekends at road Atlanta and several other one day events. All were on stock runflats and I just wanted to see the other end of the spectrum.

95jersey

Depends on how hard you drive, but on OEM bushings, you need -2.5 to -3.0 in the front and about -1.25 to -1.5 in the rear.

The fronts take a lot of abuse without camber.

I have -3.0 and still get some excess wear on the shoulder and have to flip them to optimize wear. The stock bushings are SO soft that a lot of that camber gets eaten up under hard cornering. I have more wear with my C6Z than I did my C5Z and I have very stiff coil overs on my C6Z. Bushings on these cars suck, but they have to make it streetable. Once you get fast on the Hoosiers, get ready to replace bushings!!

MP3

to Jersey --

The bushings are stock. The next step is to upgrade suspension when the cash comes available. Thanks for the advise on the camber.

drbenne

agree with 95jersey on both front and rear set up. would advise using camber plates (hardbar) . Many have had the bolts loosen on stock slotted plates.

drivinhard

we run -3F and -2R and it's almost enough

Jason

Fixed.

95jersey

Do you really run that much in the rear? I would think putting power down coming out of a corner would take precedence over pure mid corner speed (hence using a lower rear setting at -1.5). Interested in your comments.

drivinhard

used to run -1.5. tried -2.0 and went faster. can't tell any difference in power on exit.

95jersey

Great knowledge!! In all these years of running I never thought of running that much in the rear (or even trying it). Putting down power on the exit is where you get fast lap times, but it also can be a handful when done wrong.

Gray Ghost GS

-2.8 front and -1.7 rear with camber plates and polyurethane bushings, and corner balanced. The Hoosier R6 tires like a lot of negative camber - great performance on the road courses, but I drive the car to work sometimes too.

geerookie

I also run -2 degrees on the rear. Getting power down on corner exit has less to do with camber on the Corvette rear suspension than toe. Under compression/acceleration there isn't much camber gain and what little there is the radial tire can more than compensate for.
Toe is a different issue. Under compression the rear toes out so making sure you have the right amount of toe out/in on corner exit has more to do with traction.
In a right hand corner on exit the left side is compressed and "could" be toed out and the right side would be near static height due to the sway bar and be toed in. The exact opposite of what would give you the best traction on exit
One way to get around this, is to remove the rear sway bar and let the inside tire drop lower. As the rear end goes further into droop you get toe out, plus the tire isn't trying to lift due to the sway bar.

1wicked

Here's Pfadt's C6 alignment specs.

http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-alignment.pdf

Armycop

Not hijacking, I'm just adding....how much camber is there with the Hardbar plates and no shims? My stock setup gives 2.7 max at the front and 1.5 max at the rear. Can I get the magic 3.0 with the Hardbar setup?

geerookie

Yes, but it will depend on your ride height.

drivinhard

but to get any decent roll stiffness from springs, you gotta run pretty horny springs, and big spring rates is going backwards for getting mechanical grip

agree with your toe points, based on the testing I've done

Armycop

I've got QA1 coilovers in there that are adjustable for ride height, at stock heights now. What changes do I need to make?

geerookie

The lower the ride height the more camber you can get but you shouldn't go so low you mess up the geometry of the suspension or you are riding on/near the bump stops.
There is another thread in this section which goes into ride height adjustments and settings in great depth.
I run about 23mm +/-3mm front and 80mm +/-5mm rear.