MJM

I snapped a bolt on my Wilwood SL-6 / LG G-stop set up while changing rotors and I have a track day on Sunday. I will call LG and Wilwood when they open in the morning to see about rushing the part out to me but until then I want to see if anyone has the part that I could get quicker.


I have a generic Wilwood instruction sheet that refers to this part as:

230-6231 Stud, 3/8-16 x 3/8-24 x 3.15 long (pre installed in bracket)

Here is a picture of the snapped stud on the bottom, good one on the top.




1) If anyone has this part I would like to buy it and pay for same day FedEx.



2) Alternatively, if anyone can steer me in the right direction of finding one locally I would appreciate it. In other words, what type of hardware or parts store would have this since it isn't a run of the mill fastener.


3) Lastly, anyone have a good idea on how to remove the other end of the bolt? I was thinking of taking the whole caliper bracket off and taking it in to a machine shop.



Thanks in advance,
Matt

RX-Ben

You may be able get that out with an extractor kit (any hardware store). Otherwise possible weld on a bit of metal that you can turn. Any decent garage may be able to do the latter.
For the fastener, in a pinch, you can probably use the proper size bolt and ideally a very thin bushing. Chances of that are low - see if you can instead partially wrap the bolt in some thin sheet metal to mimic the shoulder on the stud.

John Shiels

Wilwood should have it or know a vendor who does if they don't sell it. I would take it to a machine shop where it will be done properly if you don't have the tools. Get the proper parts. You will have to go buy an extractor and then you need to drill it right. Not a big deal but sometimes it is better to say here to someone and be done with it. Machine some or good garage will have that out in 5 minutes.

UstaB-GS549

McMaster-Carr 94358A340 is similar. Might work in a pinch.

MJM

When I was looking for replacement bleeder valves I think I had to order them directly from Wilwood because they didn't have any vendors in San Diego that maintained inventory. Thankfully, Wilwood is here in California so I might just luck out and get the part in time.

I've used an extractor before, but since the brakes are kind of important I plan on taking it to a machine shop. The stud looks like it is a high-grade item anyway so I'm not sure if an extractor made for regular bolts would cut into it easily.

Oh well, it wouldn't be a track day if there wasn't last minute thrashing.

Thanks,
Matt

Dirty Howie

Matt my car is in a lot more pieces than yours. Best of luck finding the piece. I hope we both are at the track Sunday laughing off the last minute insanity


DH

fatbillybob

Matt,

That stud should no have broken. I would replace all of them. Wilwood is in Camarillo I think. Have fun on your 3 hour drive. Was any locktite used on the stud? Tacking welding a bolt onto the end will not only get you a purchase on the stud remenant but heat up and destroy any locktite bond. An easyout will work too.

Dirty Howie

Matt

If they have them in Camarillo I can get them for you. I could then bring them to the track for you. Since you trailer this might work. BUT thats if my car is ready on friday.


DH

Olitho

Ryan Cashin's T1 car is down for a new engine right now. He runs the Wilwood SL-R calipers so he may have the bolts. He is in Oceanside.

PM me for his contact info.


Oli

MJM

I broke it while tightening it. I set my torque wrench at 30 lbs but it felt like it didn't release. Just kept going and SNAP. I didn't feel like I was strong arming it or anything but who knows.

I have the whole bracket off and will take it to a machine shop tomorrow. I want to make sure the threads are good once the stud is out.

I will definitely be replacing all four of them. I use anti seize but no locktite.

Thanks,
Matt

MJM

Thanks Howie, I'm gonna try FedEx first. I like to have everything together and pre-flighted before an event, less chances for rushing something that way.

Hope the dealer fixes your car.

MJM

Oli,

Thanks for the info. I'm gonna try LG and Wilwood as soon as they open tomorrow since the failure is a little strange. I'll talk to Ryan if they can't come through for me.

redtopz

I can overnight one of those studs to you Matt. Just let me know. All I would ask is you send me a replacement when you get one. You might be able to get the broken one out by spraying liberal amounts of PB Blaster catalyst on both sides of the stud (the stuff is a life saver sometimes) and getting some vice grips on the end of the stud. It looks like you have enough protruding out to get a grip on it. Otherwise I would go to a machine shop because the extractor kits are not easy to use in my experience.

Bill Dearborn

Hopefully, you can save the nut. If you can't order that also. Those nuts are special aircraft nuts and are hard to find. I had to replace one I lost. They aren't cheap either. About $6 each.

Bill

MJM

Update to the broken stud...





....today as I was taking the bracket to a machine shop I grabbed the stud and twisted....and it slid right out...WTF?

The threads were fine, nothing in the whole, it screws in and out easily. This is really puzzling because I wasn't using much force to tighten it when it snapped.

I am replacing all four studs and nuts, LG motorsports has Wilwood overnighting me the kit.

Matt

MJM

Thanks for the offer, I've got Wilwood overnighting me studs and nuts.

Matt

redtopz

Not too surprising. This type of thing has happened to me before where you can remove a broken bolt or stud with your fingers. Usually what causes failures like that is fatigue due to being too loose. It may have backed out a little the last time you used it and the lateral forces and heat fatigued the stud. Good idea getting all new ones and you might want to use some loctite to make sure they don't back out.

fatbillybob

Matt,

Check with wilwood on the parts you are joining. I would use redlocktite because it is good to hitemp. You want locktite in the joint because it not only locks but seals out mositure that aids in galvanic corrosion of dissimilar metals (aluminum bracket and steel stud). The other poster is probably correct. Your stud probably loosened from heat cycling and the use of antiseize then you loose the design dynamics of the joint and the stud fails. That is the reason that one should not use antiseize on wheel lugnuts which should be torqued clean and dry. IMO there are very few things antisieze is good for.

0Todd TCE

Did you check with LG about the proposed replacement stud before you ordered one from Wilwood? Reason I ask is that the LG kit is produced by them (or for them) and may not have the same length stud as the Wilwood factory kits come with. Not saying it does or doesn't as I don't know either but you might be a bit disappointed if they used a different one. Hoping they are the same for you

For future nut use a more common six point 'jet-nut' is far less costly and equally satisfactory. And does not require funky 12pt socket....Pegasus or Coast Fabrication: about a buck each.

mgarfias

Remember that there are two red loctites. 271 and 272. 272 is slightly higher strength at higher temps.