R Mackow

In my 2000 C5 coupe, 46K miles, at last Mondays HPDE at Pocono, I experienced some stiff sport during the turning of the steering wheel when turning. I topped off the power steering reservior which was slightly low, which improved the problem but did not make it go away.
Last night I sucked the reservior out several times and replaced with fresh fluid. The fluid in the reservior now is brown, but not chocolate brown. My service manual mentions that the fluid has been burned.
Q: Do HPDEs heat the fluid so hot that it breaks down? What fluid should replace it? A friend told me he got high temp fluid at Auto Zone, however, AZ didn't know what I was talking about. Is there a high temp fluid? When do you get it. Which one has the highest boiling point(like brake fluid)? Can you use ATF?

redtopz

Redline synthetic PS fluid from Summit . FWIW I burned through a PS pump and rack doing hpde in my C5Z with the stock fluid, but I think I ran it too low.

vms4evr

RP Synthetic PS. Never a problem. No foamy nasty fluid or burnt up racks. Cheap insurance.

CHJ In Virginia

You absolutely need to flush the entire PS system ASAP. Get three quarts of a good synthetic PS fluid - Mobil 1, Redline or similar. Suck as much of the old nasty fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster as you can. Remove the return line (low pressure) from the fluid reservoir. Fill reservoir to the top. Do not start motor - it will drain the reservoir faster than you can pour in new fluid. Running the pump dry = pump failure. Manually turn the steering wheel full lock to lock, keeping fluid full. Keep cycling till clean fluid comes out of return line. Reattach return line. Cycle system with engine running and check fluid condition. Repeat process if necessary and the fluid turns dark. If you still have erratic steering after flush process, your pump may be dying, you will find out soon enough. Consider replacing with a Turn One Pump.

rustyguns

I did same thing, then i put 50% redline and 50% Lucas in it and it stopped leaking and worked great!

Wicked Weasel

Joe Gibbs power steering fluid and turn one pump.

rustyguns

50% redline + 50 % Lucas oil = joe gibbs

i like A-1 Cardone pumps but i am cheap

I do not recommend buying any AC delco. they are starting to sell off brand products with there name on it !

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1358579&partt ype=7380

MJM

Different driving styles can overwork the power steering pumps on older cars without coolers. That's why the Z06 and other packages added fins or some sort of cooler. Just go with synthetic fluid from one of the respected companies (redline, etc) and you should be ok.

I have a 2000 FRC and haven't had any problems, although I know some good drivers who have problems.

naschmitz

+1

And you should probably replace the high pressure line when you do that job, because if you don't and it leaks, then you have to do the whole grimy job a second time. Of course, you probably don't need to ask me how I know . This is especially important on a C6 -- they went back to the C5 high pressure line design when you order a replacement.

brkntrxn

Redline synthetic fluid.

Another tip: the fluid level when COLD should just touch the bottom of the dipstick attached to the reservoir cap. This will allow plenty of room for expansion when it gets hot and will prevent pushing fluid past the cap.

R Mackow

Thanks for all your input. Saturday morning I read the Corvette service manual's instructions for flushing the PS system, and boy are they full of crap. The manual says, with the return line to the reservior disconnected (and directed to a waste jug), start the engine, and have someone fill the reservior to maintain cold fluid level...yeah right.
That pump sucked that reservior dry in about 1.5 seconds! There is no way someone could keep fluid in it while the engine is running unless you had a 5 gallon jug of fluid and locked to the top of the reservior. I filled the reservior and started the engine and immediately kicked it and it was still sucked it dry.
At any rate I put about 3-4 quarts of fresh fluid through the PS system, cycling the steering wheel lock to lock several times with the engine not running, then topped it off between cyclings. It's clean now and I will get some high temp fluid you suggested.
Apparently, I may have drawn some air into the system by running the reservior empty when starting the engine. I drove the car around the block several times ( 8-12 miles) and there seems like there is no ill effects from the air...perhaps it finds it's way to the high point in the system and ejects itself.

froggy47

PS system will self bleed. I use Redline. If it has gone too long (dark brown) then best to do the whole system. If it looks pretty good the turkey baster resevoir method (I do it every event) will keep up the fluid quality.

BTW the Redline D4ATF is also recommended (by Redline) as being great PS fluid. I switched to D4ATF. One less fluid to stock, same fluid in ps sys & in tranny.

moespeeds

Just finished this job and it was pretty simple. Jack up the front wheels. Disconnect the return line from the reservoir, and use a short length of 5/16 ID fuel tubing with a bolt screwed in one end to cap the reservoir barb.I used a length of hose and a barb to mate with the return line (the smaller line, '00 FRC) at the reservoir, then fished it down under the car into a bucket. Suck out the old fluid from the reservoir, and fill it all the way to the top with new fluid. Put the key in and turn the power on but don't start the car. Now turn the wheels lock to lock, I was going full left, full right, full left, then topping off the reservoir. Do this until the fluid going into the bucket is clean, make sure you don't let the reservoir run dry. I used Royal Purple Max something or other. My old fluid was really nasty, and on track the steering felt a little vague. After taking the car out just now, I can feel a marked difference in the steering, feels much smoother and solid. I'll be on track Mon, so I'll give it a real workout then.

69427

I'm using a well known brand (with a very colorful name). It's synthetic and seems to work well, but the coloring makes the fluid look like it's been in the pump since the eighties.

I'll probably change fluid brands in the near future as I don't feel real comfortable with a fluid that looks the same out of the bottle as fluid that's been in the pump for a hundred thousand miles.

Kubs

waddisme

I use the Mobil1 ATF in mine. It is easier to get and cheaper. Someone posted on here a long time ago that the Redline/Mobil1/RP/Amsoil (I cannot remember) rep said the ATF was actually better to use than the ps fluid. Not sure how to search for that as that was a few years back. I repl with Valvoline syn when I did my engine rebuild and then repl from same bottle 2 yrs later, and ps barely worked at RD ATL, so it does go bad. Now I do the Ranger method once a qtr with Mobil1 ATF.

oh1vette

Any difference for newer years?
2001+....

l98tpi

Lucas here

C66 Racing

I've been using synthetic for so long now can't remember if I ever tracked without it. Currently using (and have been for many years) the AMSOIL Power Steering Fluid Kubs listed above. Not sure how others fair, but the product data sheet for the AMSOIL reports the minimum flash point is 150C and the AMSOIL achieves 222C (432F). Not sure if you'd consider that "high temp" but it well exceeds the stated requirement. I've never had a problem (and using the stock power steering cooler).

sebdavid

Guys,

I am using Redlne Synthetic PS fluid. I just put it in. After 1 day of running, here's what it looks like:



Do I have a problem, or is this normal? Pump has just been replaced with HD Turn One unit.