rad_vet

Sorry for another dumb question.

I just replaced the motor in my z06 with a new ls6 (over the top with headers). This is my first new engine, so I have no experience starting a new engine. I made the mistake of googling engine breakin and got mixed results. What is the proper break-in proceedure for the ls6? The car is mostly a track car.
Thanks.

Tony

RaleighSS

Is this a Crate motor ?

redtopz

I am going through the same process. You will hear many different opinions on this subject. What I have heard (and it may or may not be true) is that GM broke in our original engines prior to installing in the corvettes. Then they filled with synthetic oil and we were good to go. Only the clutch and drivetrain needed to be broken in. However, I've heard the same is not true of the crate engines and that they should be broken in. The way I was told to break it in by a respected engine builder is to run dino oil and do several 4000 - 5000 rpm pulls followed by decels using only engine braking to seat the rings. This could also be done on a dyno I suppose. It's also a good idea to check the tune on a dyno for proper air/fuel ratio. Then go out and beat the crap out of it with good synthetic oil.

However, I skipped the 1st 2 steps of this process and just went out and beat the crap out of it in 2 T1 races right off the bat.

rad_vet

It is a crate long block for a CTSV. When I changed the pan, windage tray, and pick-up there was a little oil in the pan. The oil did not look thick enough to be assembly lube.

John Shiels

run at varied rpm for 4-500 miles and don't scream it to 6 grand plus but don't baby it either.. Dump the oil and beat it.

redtopz

That is exactly what I did. But I only used amsoil synthetic from the start. I'm getting a bit of blowby so I think I'm going to fill with regular dino oil and try to break it in a little more before the next race. Plus I want to get it on a dyno to check the tune.

froggy47

Almost everything I have read is use dino to seat the rings & get a good bearing fit. From a few pulls, to 500 miles. Dump dino & put in good syn of your choice.

GettReal

I filled with Joe Gibbs break in oil, drove a few hundred miles up and down the rpm range...dumped the oil ...refilled and beat the snot out of it.

Note, for my 2nd fill of oil, I kept a bit of the JG break in oil, the JG has good Zinc levels good for break in... Next oil change will be all Mobil 1

WNeal

Hell yea

RX-Ben

beat the snot out of it from the get-go or risk lost hp from poorly seated rings.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

mgarfias

I wouldn't beat the snot out of it per se, but I would definitely use full power. Keep the revs low at first, then increase them until you're just about banging off the rev limiter.

Thing to remember is cylinder pressure pushes the rings into the cylinder, without that the rings will never find their happy place. And cylinder pressure comes from making power.