froggy47

I am trying to figure out thru trial & error if/how much braking I give up as neg. camber is increased. With different autox courses involved each time, sometimes with a high speed (75 ish) brake zone & other times not so much it is hard to quantify. A test track/facility is not available.

If you have any data please share.

I am talking about settings in the -2.8 and up range, below that I never felt I was giving up any braking (over the stock setting).

Thanks.

sperkins

I run over 3* up front and as much as I can in the rear (about 1.7) and braking has never suffered.

varkwso

I had to take some out in a Mustang due to lockup (no ABS). I took it out based on the right vs left. The inside tire pickup would lock with too much camber

RacePro Engineering

Hi Bob,

I am 100% with Scott on this. While THEORETICALLY one would not have quite as much mechanical grip as one tips the tires away from vertical; in practice, especially for autocrossing, how much time do you spend under the brakes, versus the time spent in turning?

We do suspension settings for maximum contact patch in the corners. That is where most of your time is to be gained (lost!).

Ed

Jason

Look at the Aussie V8's, we have a long way to go before we get too much camber.

Painrace

Try .050" -.070" Toe out! It should help braking and turn in!

Jim

Solofast

On our C4 BSP car (poly bushings and a camber brace added) we found that braking started to degrade if you went beyond 2.8 degrees with 315/17 A6's on the front.

It depends a lot on how much pressure you are running in the front tires. More pressure will make the car more sensitive to too much negative camber. But more negative camber will let you run lower pressures, so there is some trading that you can do with your total setup.

Autocross is different than a track, in that if you have too little pressure in the outside front tire on the track you will destroy a tire in a few laps, where if you cheat a bit in an autocross car you will shorten the life of the tire some but won't kill it in a day.

Outside front tire loading drives the required front tire pressure. Since the loading on the outside front tire is dependent on your front/rear roll stiffness distribution, what you are doing to set the car up for the corners effects how the car brakes. Softer front bias in the roll distribution will let you run lower front tire pressures which will let you run more negative camber before braking goes in the toilet.

Tires effect it too, with bigger wider tires being more sensitive, but usually needing less pressure so you can get some of it back. Obviously tire stiffness plays a big part. Stiffer squarer tires, like the A6 are a lot more sensitive to excessive negative camber than a Kumho would be.

It's all a interconnected Rubix cube, and you can't say ... "over this much negative camber and the braking goes to he!!". It doesn't work that way. You are going to have to test with your setup and see what works for your driving style and car.

TedDBere

Bob, one of my biggest problems with my driving a Z06 in autox is overbraking on entry and then relying on the gas pedal to correct for the overbrake. I think this is why a lot of top drivers from slower classes do very well in SS, they understand the importance of speed maintainence and therefore have learned not to overslow for a corner.

Given that, I wouldn't worry about the loss of braking with the increased front camber because you'll just have to learn to brake slightly earlier and then drive through the turn anyway. I know plenty of autocrossers who "dumb" down the front brakes to reduce lockup and prevent overbraking though their selection of pads.

If you find yourself getting into the ABS on the front end then find slightly less agressive pads so the fronts don't lock up as quickly with the extra camber. I'd rather have the extra front camber for autox. IMHO.