VTME13

I finally got around to installing DRM's external oil cooler kit (625 Setrab exchanger) this last week in preparation for VIR with Track Daze.

I wanted to wait until after the event to give my impressions. However, driving on the street prior to, temperatures were SIGNIFICANTLY lower. The heat exchanger WILL need to be wrapped come this Fall.

Street performance: Highway cruising netted 170-175* indicated. Stop and go, got temps up to 180-190*. Ambients were in the mid-80's. Coolant temps run lower now, too.

Track performance: Phenominal! One afternoon session I noted ambient temp as indicated on the A/C readout at 99-101*, and oil temps touched 269-270*. In the cooler morning sessions, temps hovered around 255-265*. Temps (coolant and oil) were back down to low 200's by the time I pulled into the pit entrance on every cool down lap. I ran the car HARD for the entire session - every session. Never once did I have an issue with oil temps. Coolant temps were in the top end of acceptable at 230-235*. However, I know I need to clean my stock radiator.


Installation: Fairly straight forward. The "picture book" that came with the kit was pretty good. What wasn't spelled out was easy to figure out. One special tool would make it easier to accomplish and maintain: an open-ended 1" wrench cut down to a 2" handle. I couldn't imagine trying to do that install with long-tube headers! With the stock exhaust, it's already pretty tight.

Overall: One of the best mods - EVER! I finally get to enjoy an entire session on track without worry of oil temps going through the roof.

LeMans05C6

Very nice.

I had a 619 put into my car and a DeWitts radiator as well. I will go back to the track in Oct., but my temp comparisons were from Feb and march so it should be alright. I was running nearly 280+ in those cooler months so i wanted some more cooling as well. Can't wait to get mine back and test the track temps as well.

sothpaw2

Steve,

Glad you enjoyed it! Is this the longer racing version? I didn't realize there are 2 that DRM sells, I have the shorter one. Let me know how you plan to clean the stock radiator...I'm just going to put some DI water in mine and see if that helps.

Sorry I missed it...family vacation came first and pretty much had to be that week w/other issues. I'm running out of tire anyway--VIR is a long trip to come back on cords.

ps. Got the racing jack and also 35mm deep axle nut socket finally.

Andy

VTME13

Hey Andy!

Scot and I were keeping an eye out for ya! DRM has a smaller "street" version listed on their website, but you can't choose the option to buy it. The only one available on the web is the larger "race" version.

I'm going to follow some of the advice in the thread by froggy47, and pull the radiator, then drop it on the floor. Probably a good time to flush it anyway.

Next on my list is a low profile jack like Scot has... much nicer to lift the car with.

Hope all is well!

0Randy@DRM

Website fixed

waddisme

Are you on a stock motor?

SDLS1Rider

VTME13,

I am considering this set up. I have two questions that you could help me with.

Did you have to make any modifications to mount the heat exchanger (oil cooler), and did you notice any low oil pressures?

Thanks

sothpaw2

No substantial pressure drop...maybe it's 1-2 psi? Install is pretty much bolt on but then I paid someone else to do the work. Difficult with headers.

BrianCunningham

use some large size lines and the pressure drop will be minimal, mines all the way at the back and I've got plenty of pressure (high pressure pump though)

SDLS1Rider

So I can assume there is no drilling or cutting to mount the heat exchanger?

I keep hearing that it's tight with headers. Do you mean difficult if you leave it on or difficult because you have to loosen it?

VTME13

Yep, stock motor.

VTME13

Like Andy said, maybe 1-2 psi. I had to drill 3 holes in front bumper support to mount heat exchanger... No big deal.

VTME13

It would be near impossible to mount the block adapter with long tubes - and not loosing or moving the headers. It is tight already with stock exhaust.

0Randy@DRM

Some have done the task without removing headers. You can put the AN lines on the block. Before putting the block adapter in place above the oil filter.

I find it easier for me to remove header or exhaust manifold.

Randy

SDLS1Rider

Randy,
What kind of fasteners do you use in your kit to mount the adapter, and would a particular tool make it easier?

I have access to a lift on the base. But I have to drive the car there and drive it back. This means I have to take everything apart and put it back together in a day. So the fewer surprises I have the more likely I will complete the install in a single day.

0Randy@DRM

The block adapter uses the factory 6mm bolts (10mm Head)

The oil cooler itself has (7) 1/4 inch bolts

Send me your email and I will get you the complete instructions.

Randy
BTW I was just in San Diego a few weeks ago. Nice weather, expensive meals and PIA brother.

spdislife

Put the same unit on myself early this spring and I'm as satisfied as you are.

davidfarmer

I put the racing version on a customers' car recently, and it went well and performed well. Yes, getting the large oil lines in place, and then getting the adapter mounted (with lines already attached) was difficult, but it eventually folded to my pressure.

As for mounting the cooler itself, just drill 2 holes in the radiator support and bolt them in. Getting all of the lines in the perfect location/orientation takes some trial and error, but it would be hard to duplicate the setup and make it any better. It is just the nature of the tight packaging of these cars that makes it hard.

SDLS1Rider

Randy of DRM sent me some pictures of the install which I appreciate. But they didn't show exactly were the hoses snaked through from the adapter past the engine mount. I'm sure it isn't that but I wouldn't want it pinched in there. I had my vette up on a lift Friday, but it is difficult to get your head in there to look. I'm going to think about this a little while longer. But any insight as to where they snake through would be a benefit to our self installers. It can't be that difficult can it?

0Randy@DRM

The lines run in between the block and engine mount. To gain some room you can remove the left side engine mount from the cradle (bottom bolt) and use a jack to push that side of the engine up.

Randy