jon6.0

I just bought a base C6 coupe with a manual transmission. I'm a newbie when it comes to road course HPDE's. I want to get the most effective use of my money for learning the car. I already don't like how much body roll the base coupe has. Feels boat like at times. This car is my daily driver and I also live down a 1/4 dirt road. I want a well balanced car that can handle HPDE events.


Here's my list of what I want to order next week:

Pfadt Johnny O'Connell shocks and sways.
Hinson poly motor and trans mount
LG tunnel plate
Stainless brake lines
DRM stainless brake pistons
TSW Nurburgring or Interlagos light weight wheels


Here's what I don't know about:

Wheel size? I was thinking 18x10.5 +65 on all four w/ 285/35-18.

How does running a shorter rear tire affect ABS, traction control, and active handling?

What brake pads should I run with my base brakes?

What brake fluid?

What oil cooler?

jon6.0

How heavy are stock 2011 5 spoke wheels?

6SPEEDZ

I am not sure if you can run the same size tire all the way around on your C6 with your ABS system. You can on the C5's and I believe the C6's up to 09. Don't bother with the tunnel plate it was useful on the C5 because it replaced a piece of sheet metal. The C6 already has a plate, although it is not as thick as some of the after market pieces. Brake fluid I would use Castrol SRF. Brake pads depends on your level of skill and tires. As a newbie I would recommend Hawk HP+ pads and a street tire or lower level of R comps. Toyo r888's, Nitto NT01's, michelin ps cups, etc. It is recommended to stay away from hoosier R's and A's until you build your skill level as they tend to mask your mistakes more. I would suggest a radiator with an EOC such as a dewitt's. As you get better you will find the car will run hotter and you will need the radiator.

jon6.0

Good info thanks. Not buying a tunnel plate is $200 saved. I'm not that fast so the HP+ would probably do me fine. I'm really leaning toward just keeping my stock wheels and putting some Kumho XS or Bridgestone RE-11's in the stock sizes on there. Then I can sell my stock tires that have 500 miles on them. Right now my oil temp is 225F just running down the highway.

crimlwC6

You got solid advice already but I think you should stick with street tires like the kuhmos for at least your first few track days. Welcome to the madness!

crimlwC6

Oh and the stainless pistons are overkill right now, a good alternative is titanium brake pad shields. I'd also make or buy a mesh radiator guard. I run Porterfield rs4 pads and I like them. Carbotech seems to be the pad of choice for most here.

KNSBrakes

Get brakes based on the tire you will run and the event. With street tires HP+ will likely get a good way through a session depending on you/the track/your group. So you should be looking to fade them eventually as sort of a breakthrough in your driving and know what that is like. I think SRF is overkill for HP+/street tires.

I wouldn't do the caliper pistons or lines -I'd get more pad before I'd do that.

Get a good alignment at a race shop that knows Corvettes if possible.

I got the radiator w/ cooler -and I wish I hadn't. It only reduces 20-30 degrees. So I am going to a big external cooler.

Adn if you know you'll be doing this a lot - start looking at seats/harnesses etc.

Those laz-y-boys are not much help in driving.

jon6.0

I won the brake lines, so they are free. What brake fluid would you recommend instead of SRF? I had read about a couple people getting a Setrab cooler. What compound pad should I get? I'm going to run Firebird Main with the Pro Auto guys Thanksgiving weekend. http://www.firebirdraceway.com/image...20Map-2008.jpg

What about this for helping my stock seats: http://angelwingstech.com/store/

KNSBrakes

RBF 600 is around half the price. I have not boiled it yet.

Carbotech XP8 front/rear - then go to -10's in the front after an event or 2.

I got a GIANT setrab cooler - I will post up soon.

jon6.0

Is putting in the stainless brake pistons that hard? Because they don't cost much and to me that seems like cheap insurance. When do I need to worry about going to a slotted rotor?

KNSBrakes

It's not hard -

It's just not your weak link right now.

Your weak link is street tires/alignment, awful seats, soft suspension, not enough cooling for any of the powertrain, and maybe a few more things. It will take you quite a while to outdrive a good set of race pads and suitable fluid.

jon6.0

What are some initial alignment specs to try? Should I learn with my stock run flats or replace them with the Kumho XS/Bridgestone RE-11?

KNSBrakes

If you DD it - save the nice wheels/tires for that - get track wheels/tires for track - they aer going to get dirty/scuffed/etc

crimlwC6

I'll be at the pro auto event as well! Didn't realize you were in my neck of the woods. The best thing you can do is come to the Arizona racer club meetings every Wednesday. Great group of guys with tons of experience and most of them are instructors to boot. Pm me for time and location. Btw I have a brand new in box set of HP plus pads you can buy for cheap, say $20 bucks cheaper than the lowest price you can find? I don't remember what I paid. I've got a silver 08 and will probably have a banner up that says Brown & Little if we don't meet before hand. Acr membership also gets you discounts for track days .

crimlwC6

I've got the O'Connell sway bars, awesome, awesome improvement.

jon6.0

Mine is a black 2011 coupe. Victor told me about Pro Auto after I got rid of my GTO for a Corvette. I work at Palo Verde and I'm working nights the next month. When I'm done doing nights I will try and make a meeting. What is ACR? I'll take the pads from you.

crimlwC6

I run the max factory camber settings which iirc is 1'8 and 1 and I run zero toe. I use BDM is Tempe. If you don't have track experience the runflats will work, I've never scuffed wheels at an event ymmv. You do want to run 18s all around at some point because of tire cost and selection but pads and sway bars are a better cost now. Running four zo6 c5 wheels is a common practice. I went that route with 2 widened. Some forum vendors have good package deals on new wheels and tires. You'll need tpms sensors on your track set and a reset tool, tire track has them for $100.

jon6.0

I was thinking of just getting the TSW's with tires and selling the stock 2011 chrome wheels and tires that came on my car. Recoup some money that way. I only live 10 miles from work, so until I actually need to step it up to some Hoosier or similar tire I was just going to leave the XS or RE-11's on there. What do you think about using 18x10.5 in front with 275/35-18 and 19x10.5 in back with 285/35-19 to keep my diameters the same as stock?

AU N EGL

Brake fluid brake pads and nothing but drive or seat time.

Don't mess with the suspension until you have 6 -10 events under your butt.


if your buying wheels get 18" wheels no 19"s' Tires are too expensive

JETninja

Good Street/Track Alignment settings from pfadt:

Caster 7.5 degrees on both sides (C6 can take a bit more, C5 will smoke the PS pump and rack with 8 degrees or more)
Front Camber -1.3 to -1.6 on each side
Rear camber 0.2 degree less negative camber than the front (ie. if the front is -1.5 then set the rears at -1.3 degrees
Toe: in 0.05 degrees for each side front and rear