Paul Schmidt

Hey guys, I need your help. I pulled my LS1 out of my race car. The motor had 127K on it. I have rebuilt it. My question is, I'm about to fire it up. Do I use non detergent oil or use what I always use Mobil 1 synthetic? What is your start up procedure when you have a fresh rebuild or new motor in your race car. The parts on the motor are all stock. I just added ARP hardware, Katech rod bolts and timing chain. The block was balanced and blue printed. So I went this far with the best intent for longevity and reliability. I don't want to skip an important step. I put this in this section, because you guys always know whats best.


Thanks guys,

AU N EGL

Joe Gibbs Engine Break in Oil. Specific oil for new engines.

Bills Z06

Amsoil has a break-in oil that you should take a look at.

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/brk.aspx

Let me know if you need help finding a dealer.

Bill

Aardwolf

What does your builder want you to do? Mine said to use normal oil, get the engine warmed up and dump it. Then another run of normal oil and drive it some. After that switch to synthetic. I used normal 5-30 Quaker State, it was on sale.

rustyguns

diesel engine oil!!!!!!!! has tons of zinc!

RacePro Engineering

Doug,

You want a non-synthetic oil for break-in. It is always a good idea to turn over the motor several times without letting it fire. Remove coil wires, or spark plug wires, hook up a battery charger (so as not to run down the car's battery), and crank. Listen for grinding or other problem sounds. Meanwhile, if you can watch oil pressure come up, all the better.

Oil pressure up, no grinding or thumping - should be good to go.

Ed

froggy47

What all these guys said & DO NOT USE SYN for about 500 miles.

Don't baby it, but don't flog it either.

Black89Z51

You didn't mention whether you bored and honed it or just had it rehoned, or if the cylinders were touched at all. New rings? New pistons? Most of the break in process is to flatten out the microscopic ridges left after a honing. This also wears the rings a bit and seats them. For that, you want to use a high zinc oil. I used Joe Gibbs break in oil. As far as breaking the motor in, you don't want to rev the crap out of it, but speed up and let the motor slow you down. IE, put it in 2nd and go up to 5500 rpm, and let off the gas and let it coast in 2nd until 1500-2000 rpm. That's probably the most common break-in procedure I've heard of and that's the one I used on my motor.

Paul Schmidt

Thanks for the help guys I went with Joe Gibbs. I changed the oil after the first start up and break in. I have put Joe Gibbs break in oil back in again. I have a track day tomorrow. Is this oil going to be alright to use or should I go with Mobil 1? The car has about 60 miles on the second oil change with the Joe Gibbs. Again, thanks for your help. I really looking forward to tomorrow.

Corvee

Joe Gibbs is the ticket for break-in with its high ZDDP content. How many total miles do you have after the rebuild? 60 is not enough before tracking it. Some suggest 2000 to 3000 miles before switching to a synthetic. However, very frequent oil changes are necessary with lack of detergents in the break-in oil.

Paul Schmidt

It's a race car. I don't have the option of putting that many miles on the car. I would if I could. I hate driving it with the roll cage on the streets. I'm not going to run it hard tomorrow. I'll run a few 20 minute session.


Anyone?

VGLNTE1

Run NON synthetic reg oil. Use fresh on start up and change after about an hour of run time. Drain it. Add fresh reg oil again. Tune it, do all your WOT testing. Drain it. Then add the good stuff

Paul Schmidt

Paul Schmidt

Thanks a lot guys for the advice. Here's a video of my first session breaking in my motor. Also I built it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNRiv...A1o5Ot3WqmpjSL