Tire skipping, steering rack, loose shock, worn tie rod, or balljoints?
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Tire skipping, steering rack, loose shock, worn tie rod, or balljoints?
so Ive had this problem with the car making a knocking/clacking sound that comes from the front during tight turns - especially if Im accelerating.
Using on/off ramps and turning in hard gives the noise. The more i accelerate, the more it occurs.
The only things I can compare the sound to would be an old worn steering rack or a broken shock mount - like the sound of an old wooden ship, but more of a - clack clack clack clack rather than a long drawn out single sound.
when the car is stopped, if I push down on the driver front part of the frame, in order to move the suspension, i can hear a clicking sound, but cant isolate it. - on top of that, this may be totally unrelated to the knocking/clacking. I have noticed that the area around the upper shock mount looks like it might have had the shock move around at some point, but also not sure if that has anything to do with this.
Im wonderign if it could be any of the issues in the title.
Id read about the front tires skipping, but Ive never heard another vette with the tire skipping to compare it to my car. This sound is LOUD and it occurs mainly with hard turn in.
any help is much appreciated!
thanks!
btw the endlinks are new heavy duty t1 style units from zip, the axle nuts were recently replaced, and the front rotors were cleaned of corrosion (of course this was done via the dealership and when I checked it recently, I was not impressed by the work - looked like it was done to the minimum).
Using on/off ramps and turning in hard gives the noise. The more i accelerate, the more it occurs.
The only things I can compare the sound to would be an old worn steering rack or a broken shock mount - like the sound of an old wooden ship, but more of a - clack clack clack clack rather than a long drawn out single sound.
when the car is stopped, if I push down on the driver front part of the frame, in order to move the suspension, i can hear a clicking sound, but cant isolate it. - on top of that, this may be totally unrelated to the knocking/clacking. I have noticed that the area around the upper shock mount looks like it might have had the shock move around at some point, but also not sure if that has anything to do with this.
Im wonderign if it could be any of the issues in the title.
Id read about the front tires skipping, but Ive never heard another vette with the tire skipping to compare it to my car. This sound is LOUD and it occurs mainly with hard turn in.
any help is much appreciated!
thanks!
btw the endlinks are new heavy duty t1 style units from zip, the axle nuts were recently replaced, and the front rotors were cleaned of corrosion (of course this was done via the dealership and when I checked it recently, I was not impressed by the work - looked like it was done to the minimum).
Last edited by el es tu; 02-01-2012 at 02:31 PM.
#3
Safety Car
so Ive had this problem with the car making a knocking/clacking sound that comes from the front during tight turns - especially if Im accelerating.
Using on/off ramps and turning in hard gives the noise. The more i accelerate, the more it occurs.
The only things I can compare the sound to would be an old worn steering rack or a broken shock mount - like the sound of an old wooden ship, but more of a - clack clack clack clack rather than a long drawn out single sound.
when the car is stopped, if I push down on the driver front part of the frame, in order to move the suspension, i can hear a clicking sound, but cant isolate it. - on top of that, this may be totally unrelated to the knocking/clacking. I have noticed that the area around the upper shock mount looks like it might have had the shock move around at some point, but also not sure if that has anything to do with this.
Im wonderign if it could be any of the issues in the title.
Id read about the front tires skipping, but Ive never heard another vette with the tire skipping to compare it to my car. This sound is LOUD and it occurs mainly with hard turn in.
any help is much appreciated!
thanks!
btw the endlinks are new heavy duty t1 style units from zip, the axle nuts were recently replaced, and the front rotors were cleaned of corrosion (of course this was done via the dealership and when I checked it recently, I was not impressed by the work - looked like it was done to the minimum).
Using on/off ramps and turning in hard gives the noise. The more i accelerate, the more it occurs.
The only things I can compare the sound to would be an old worn steering rack or a broken shock mount - like the sound of an old wooden ship, but more of a - clack clack clack clack rather than a long drawn out single sound.
when the car is stopped, if I push down on the driver front part of the frame, in order to move the suspension, i can hear a clicking sound, but cant isolate it. - on top of that, this may be totally unrelated to the knocking/clacking. I have noticed that the area around the upper shock mount looks like it might have had the shock move around at some point, but also not sure if that has anything to do with this.
Im wonderign if it could be any of the issues in the title.
Id read about the front tires skipping, but Ive never heard another vette with the tire skipping to compare it to my car. This sound is LOUD and it occurs mainly with hard turn in.
any help is much appreciated!
thanks!
btw the endlinks are new heavy duty t1 style units from zip, the axle nuts were recently replaced, and the front rotors were cleaned of corrosion (of course this was done via the dealership and when I checked it recently, I was not impressed by the work - looked like it was done to the minimum).
#5
Safety Car
Thread Starter
car is a base 2007 c6
modifications are z06 front spring, zr1 front sway, z06 rear sway, the t1 style endlinks, and z06 shocks.
tires are mismatched from the day i bought it: bfg something up front and emts in the rear (havent changed tires because Im planning on running c6 z06 sized rubber this year when I have to upgrade the wheels so I can finally ditch the floating calipers)
the noise only occurs while the car is moving and only during turns (usually with turns that require a lot of steering input like tight on/off ramps that you might choose to aggressively attack the inside of the turn for fun). the noise starts up around .6 to .7 g and gets more pronounced as the lateral acceleration goes up. at 1 g the car is loud.
the sound is not so much of a clicking or ticking as it is clacking kind of like wood just starting split.
endlinks were replaced with the newer factory metal units, then with the zip hd. neither type has performed differently in terms of the sound.
i dont feel vibrations.
the car is empty.
i had the dealership check the subframe bolts, so those should be fine.
during that time, they did the brake rotor corrosion removal as that was supposed to be linked to the noise, and I think they had a chance to check out the whole front brake system.
cant remember if I had the drivetrain mounts checked when the other work was done, but heavy acceleration doesnt feel sloppy like ive noticed in the past with cars that have had worn out mounts.
car doesnt lean while parked.
as far as the bearing/ hub assemblies go, I dont get any loose movement when trying to shake the wheel/tire. is there any other way to test for possible hub failure?
tapping the brakes makes it go away, but Im not sure if its because of a brake problem or because Im reducing the lateral loading.
The car feels fine at speed and being pushed hard. Its just this noise issue has got me spooked.
could a slightly loose shock cause this noise?
If the noise was normal id be okay with it. I just cant drive around thinking the car might let out on me halfway through a turn.
Ive taken the car to the dealership several times already (something I hate doing) - Im really desperate to get this thing solved.
thanks for the replies!
modifications are z06 front spring, zr1 front sway, z06 rear sway, the t1 style endlinks, and z06 shocks.
tires are mismatched from the day i bought it: bfg something up front and emts in the rear (havent changed tires because Im planning on running c6 z06 sized rubber this year when I have to upgrade the wheels so I can finally ditch the floating calipers)
the noise only occurs while the car is moving and only during turns (usually with turns that require a lot of steering input like tight on/off ramps that you might choose to aggressively attack the inside of the turn for fun). the noise starts up around .6 to .7 g and gets more pronounced as the lateral acceleration goes up. at 1 g the car is loud.
the sound is not so much of a clicking or ticking as it is clacking kind of like wood just starting split.
endlinks were replaced with the newer factory metal units, then with the zip hd. neither type has performed differently in terms of the sound.
i dont feel vibrations.
the car is empty.
i had the dealership check the subframe bolts, so those should be fine.
during that time, they did the brake rotor corrosion removal as that was supposed to be linked to the noise, and I think they had a chance to check out the whole front brake system.
cant remember if I had the drivetrain mounts checked when the other work was done, but heavy acceleration doesnt feel sloppy like ive noticed in the past with cars that have had worn out mounts.
car doesnt lean while parked.
as far as the bearing/ hub assemblies go, I dont get any loose movement when trying to shake the wheel/tire. is there any other way to test for possible hub failure?
tapping the brakes makes it go away, but Im not sure if its because of a brake problem or because Im reducing the lateral loading.
The car feels fine at speed and being pushed hard. Its just this noise issue has got me spooked.
could a slightly loose shock cause this noise?
If the noise was normal id be okay with it. I just cant drive around thinking the car might let out on me halfway through a turn.
Ive taken the car to the dealership several times already (something I hate doing) - Im really desperate to get this thing solved.
thanks for the replies!
Last edited by el es tu; 02-01-2012 at 06:09 PM.
#6
Safety Car
Why didnt you say it sounds like wood before it splits? Travis is right. Endlinks, Heims, Nylon bushings, etc. I have a scratch built roadster with all that stuff. Sounds like an old boat. Just drive thru some huge puddles of water, chances are, the creaks and moans will go away for a few minutes. Some door seal lube can fix it for a while. Squirt your garden hose on them and take it for a ride. If the noise goes away, live with it. High hysteresis losses in a suspension can cost you a few tenths or more. Always get expensive suspension stuff. Check shocks.
car is a base 2007 c6
modifications are z06 front spring, zr1 front sway, z06 rear sway, the t1 style endlinks, and z06 shocks.
the sound is not so much of a clicking or ticking as it is clacking kind of like wood just starting split.
could a slightly loose shock cause this noise?
thanks for the replies!
modifications are z06 front spring, zr1 front sway, z06 rear sway, the t1 style endlinks, and z06 shocks.
the sound is not so much of a clicking or ticking as it is clacking kind of like wood just starting split.
could a slightly loose shock cause this noise?
thanks for the replies!
#7
Safety Car
Thread Starter
i keep the endlinks lubed up with tons of dry graphite. the metal joints move very smoothly with little force required.
also the original factory links, as well as the newer style factory links were no different from the T1 type in terms of affecting this noise.
i will check the shocks to see if the mounts need tightening.
i really hope whatever this is, its just something normal for these cars.
edit: could the spring pad moving on the a arm cause this noise if it needed lubrication?
also the original factory links, as well as the newer style factory links were no different from the T1 type in terms of affecting this noise.
i will check the shocks to see if the mounts need tightening.
i really hope whatever this is, its just something normal for these cars.
edit: could the spring pad moving on the a arm cause this noise if it needed lubrication?
Last edited by el es tu; 02-01-2012 at 07:05 PM.
#10
Melting Slicks
Here is my approach. Have a manual with torque specs on every bolt in the front and rear suspension. Lift the car up and check everything with a torque wrench. If anything is loose(and something will be) retorque it with Red Loctite. You would be surprised(and sometimes scared) on what might loosen up. Any components that were previously replaced or upgraded are highly suspect.
#11
Melting Slicks
Here is my approach. Have a manual with torque specs on every bolt in the front and rear suspension. Lift the car up and check everything with a torque wrench. If anything is loose(and something will be) retorque it with Red Loctite. You would be surprised(and sometimes scared) on what might loosen up. Any components that were previously replaced or upgraded are highly suspect.
#12
Safety Car
Thread Starter
The seals are lubed with dielectric silicone grease the hinges are shimmed with e clips, and the rear lock is adjusted nice and tight. Ill try driving it with the roof off to see if there is any difference.
this is just the best example I could come up with - it does it through any corner thats driven hard
No poly - all factory bushings.
I actually have the pfadt poly kit, but dont even want to install it until I know the car is safe.
looks like Ive got a busy weekend ahead of me - thanks everyone!
Any more ideas are welcome!
this is just the best example I could come up with - it does it through any corner thats driven hard
Here is my approach. Have a manual with torque specs on every bolt in the front and rear suspension. Lift the car up and check everything with a torque wrench. If anything is loose(and something will be) retorque it with Red Loctite. You would be surprised(and sometimes scared) on what might loosen up. Any components that were previously replaced or upgraded are highly suspect.
I agree with Sidney, except I use blue loctite. Take the guess work out and get your car up on jack stands so both front wheels are off the ground then check everything: lug nuts before removing wheels, upper and lower control arms, brake calipers and brackets, upper and lower shock connections, the 2 bolts holding the steering rack, sway bar end links and the brackets holding the middle of the sway bar, ball joints, tie rods, hubs, etc. Do you have poly bushings anywhere? They will creak and pop if they need to be lubed. Your sway bar bushings might be poly and they need to be lubed frequently. You can also take some tension off of them if necessary by using washers for spacers.
I actually have the pfadt poly kit, but dont even want to install it until I know the car is safe.
looks like Ive got a busy weekend ahead of me - thanks everyone!
Any more ideas are welcome!
#15
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Went with the poly - great value for a sub 300 dollar product. RPI Designs is one of the cheapest retailers of the kit.
Ive gotten so used to the noise that It actually feels weird not hearing the clacking through every hard turn now.
Review:http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...amber-kit.html
Ive gotten so used to the noise that It actually feels weird not hearing the clacking through every hard turn now.
Review:http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...amber-kit.html
#16
Le Mans Master
Sure feels good to have stuff tightened up. I've got a creaking in the right rear that I think is related to 12 year old suspension parts that have almost a quarter million miles on them. Most likely going to go with poly when I rebuild them, although I might go with some rubber since she's been retired from competition; now just an awesome DD/cross-country gal.
On my current autox car (LS1 miata) I'm running poly bushings everywhere with zerk fittings so I can re-lube them easily. Might want to keep an eye on yours for them drying out and binding. Phadt makes good stuff, but no lube lasts forever.
Have a good one,
Mike
On my current autox car (LS1 miata) I'm running poly bushings everywhere with zerk fittings so I can re-lube them easily. Might want to keep an eye on yours for them drying out and binding. Phadt makes good stuff, but no lube lasts forever.
Have a good one,
Mike
#18
Safety Car
Thread Starter
In the past Ive used spray lubricant on control arm bushings to test them, but I just got lucky this time when I replaced the bushings with poly (had a kit laying around since December and had finally decided to install it)
my best guess is that it was one of the upper front driver side bushings (considering where the sound was coming from, the type of turns it took to make the noise occur, and the visual condition of the uppers)
my best guess is that it was one of the upper front driver side bushings (considering where the sound was coming from, the type of turns it took to make the noise occur, and the visual condition of the uppers)