Totally and permanently removing traction control and active handling
#1
Totally and permanently removing traction control and active handling
How do I Totally and permanently removing traction control and active handling for serious road racing on a 2007 C6?
I'm putting a Racepack dash in front of the DIC and want to totally and permanently disable the traction control and active handling.
I'm putting a Racepack dash in front of the DIC and want to totally and permanently disable the traction control and active handling.
Last edited by theBOSS; 02-13-2012 at 08:15 AM.
#2
Race Director
I assume this question is regarding a C6 - is that correct???
I saw your original post in the C6 section, so I'm guessing you're talking about a C6, and in your original post I believe you said you wanted to maintain the stock ECU.
I don't think you're going to have any luck at all trying to do that.
If you really want to get rid of it, go with a MoTeC engine management system.
Bob
I saw your original post in the C6 section, so I'm guessing you're talking about a C6, and in your original post I believe you said you wanted to maintain the stock ECU.
I don't think you're going to have any luck at all trying to do that.
If you really want to get rid of it, go with a MoTeC engine management system.
Bob
Last edited by BEZ06; 04-20-2012 at 02:10 PM.
#3
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Those two functions are part of the ABS system. You could pull out the EBCM and BPMV and re-plumb the brake lines to make up for the gap left in them by removing the BPMV. You will also lose the ABS if you do that. Don't know how much weight that would save but it would be removed from the front of the car. If you pull just the EBCM and leave the BPMV in place you lose all 3 functions as well but don't have to re-plumb the brake lines.
Bill
Bill
#4
Race Director
I don't know, and after 5 years I finally had a weekend where the system completely ruined an event for me. If I keep this car, I am going to put the TPSM's in a pressurized canister and just keep them in the car!
Nothing like having the rear brakes engage the moment you turn the steering wheel at all at speed!
Nothing like having the rear brakes engage the moment you turn the steering wheel at all at speed!
#5
I don't know, and after 5 years I finally had a weekend where the system completely ruined an event for me. If I keep this car, I am going to put the TPSM's in a pressurized canister and just keep them in the car!
Nothing like having the rear brakes engage the moment you turn the steering wheel at all at speed!
Nothing like having the rear brakes engage the moment you turn the steering wheel at all at speed!
#6
Race Director
I posted one lap just to help the guys up front win more tires, but I couldn't resuscitate the system after putting OEM wheels back on, resetting battery, etc etc etc.
#7
OK...so without using a Motec (which is what I really want to do but didn't budget for that this year), what is everyone else doing? If I cover up the DIC with the racepack dash, I won't be able to see when its in competition mode. Is there a way to permanently stay in competition mode for a 2007 C6? Has anyone attempted to do this using the stock EMS?
#8
Safety Car
Full race? Relocate the DIC to where you can see it. And you'll want all off and not "competition mode." You could wire a circuit that would do the "press & hold" for you whenever the car power cycled. A vendor used to sell these for the C5, but I never saw one for the C6... Shouldn't be too hard to find an EE to build it, though...
#10
Le Mans Master
#11
Race Director
this past weekend, even "press and hold" didn't work. The system locked up solid, would not respond to anything. After driving around 30miles with the street tires back on (even though it was registering pressure immediately) it finally kicked back to normal. I'm seriously doing the pressurize canister mod...........
#12
Safety Car
this past weekend, even "press and hold" didn't work. The system locked up solid, would not respond to anything. After driving around 30miles with the street tires back on (even though it was registering pressure immediately) it finally kicked back to normal. I'm seriously doing the pressurize canister mod...........
#13
Burning Brakes
this past weekend, even "press and hold" didn't work. The system locked up solid, would not respond to anything. After driving around 30miles with the street tires back on (even though it was registering pressure immediately) it finally kicked back to normal. I'm seriously doing the pressurize canister mod...........
#14
2 - Sync them to your car.
3 - Put in PVC tube, cap both ends.
4 - install wheel air valve in one of the caps and pressureize to 30psi.
5 - Crack open a beer and admire your work, then toss in rear chuby.
#15
Burning Brakes
Thank you. I don't think I could of handled another cross country trek to a track to have issues with AH/TC without having a melt down.
#17
Race Director
Just that I don't know what type of sensor they use, but can you put the entire TPS in the canister, or just the inner part (with valve sticking out like in a wheel). Just want to make sure it actually measures pressure, not a differential pressure between the inner and outer portion.
#18
Just that I don't know what type of sensor they use, but can you put the entire TPS in the canister, or just the inner part (with valve sticking out like in a wheel). Just want to make sure it actually measures pressure, not a differential pressure between the inner and outer portion.
Good idea to mount one sensor with the valve sticking out of the tube.
#19
Race Director
Just that I don't know what type of sensor they use, but can you put the entire TPS in the canister, or just the inner part (with valve sticking out like in a wheel). * Just want to make sure it actually measures pressure, not a differential pressure between the inner and outer portion.
The top picture shows the sensor unpressurized - you can see the pressure shows as "0.0" and the sensor ID# is displayed on the screen of the tool, and it's the same # that is on a barcode strip on the back of the sensor.
In the second picture I've got that sensor loose inside the PVC container. The valve stem that is sticking out is a sensor from some other vehicle. There is just one Corvette sensor loose inside and I used a different sensor for the valve stem so that when I set the tool up to trigger the Vette sensor it would only trigger the loose one.
You can see that the valve stem does not need to be sticking out in order for the sensor to work properly. You can see the pressure is indicated as 25.6 psi, and it's the same sensor ID# as in the top picture.
A couple things to consider
1 - You will need to program all the sensors into the TPMS computer in the car before you put them into the container. The antenna of the tool needs to be within a couple inches of the sensor in order to trigger it, and if all the sensors are in that small area you will probably trigger multiple sensors at a time and they won't program into the TPMS properly.
So....program them all separately, then put them into the container and pressurize it.
2 - Guys report that this pressurized canister thingy works for them, bu I'm not sure how!?!?
When a C6 is parked for about 15 minutes the sensors go into a sleep mode where they only transmit once every 60 minutes to save the batteries. So, that's what will happen when the sensors are sitting still in a container - they'll only transmit once per hour.
When you start driving faster than 20 mph the sensors detect wheel rotation and wake up and transmit once every 60 seconds - even sooner if they detect a rapid change in pressure.
So.....I'm not sure how the sensors in a pressurized container only transmitting once every hour will update the TPMS often enough to keep problems from occurring.
BTW David, for your 2006 you need sensors used in the 2005-2009 C6 - GM part# 25758220. In 2010 they changed to a different TPMS computer in the car, and it requires a different tire pressure sensor.
Bob
Last edited by BEZ06; 02-16-2012 at 12:57 PM.
#20
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2 - Guys report that this pressurized canister thingy works for them, bu I'm not sure how!?!?
When a C6 is parked for about 15 minutes the sensors go into a sleep mode where they only transmit once every 60 minutes to save the batteries. So, that's what will happen when the sensors are sitting still in a container - they'll only transmit once per hour.
When you start driving faster than 20 mph the sensors detect wheel rotation and wake up and transmit once every 60 seconds - even sooner if they detect a rapid change in pressure.
So.....I'm not sure how the sensors in a pressurized container only transmitting once every hour will update the TPMS often enough to keep problems from occurring.
Bob
Bill