froggy47

What are you guys torqueing to? Loctite or no. Color? Nordlock?

This may not be the same as what the FSM says & I am ok with that.

I just got thru reading a loooong thread about c6 nuts.

Phew.

This is for my c5z, so the tq may be different.

Thanks.

Another question will the knuckle pull off the splines easy or hard?

If hard, how do I persuade it off?

This is to do my studs.

THX

MNCrystalRed2011

The rear axle nut is 118 lb ft and I use red loctite. Not sure if I should, but since the tend to work loose I figured why not.

NASCAR314

I've always used new axle nuts, available from your friendly neighborhood GM dealer. and NO loctite.

You may need to "persuade" the knuckle off the splines. Probably not proper, but I've used a block of wood and trusty 2 1/2 lb. hammer just enough to break it loose. (didn't take much)

Painrace

Nord-Locks are the easiest and the best!

Jim

RX-Ben

I tq to whatever David Farmer's tq sheet says.
The tq is not super high tq like in some other rwd cars (S2000 is 240lb/ft) as it does not tension the bearing.
I've never had a problem and I track my car a lot.

froggy47

Lube the splines going together?

RX-Ben

Yes, I use Redline stuff, but I am sure that other high pressure/temp grease would work as well.

Jason

Only problem I've had was finding a nut under torqued from the factory on a C6 Z06.

But that wasn't the only bolt/nut we found loose from the factory. So bolt check EVERY car before taking it on track.

el es tu

I went with loctite, but wish Id have gone with the nordlocks. You dont have to deal with the 24 hour wait of the loctite, and they are reusable.

the only downside Ive seen to the nordlocks is the fact that no fastener stores ever have the large ones in stock so you end up having to wait for them to order a set, or get them online.

also if you decide to replace the axle nuts, you should be able to find them at a local autozone instead of having to drive all the way to the dealership.

jaa1992

When I had to replace the rear hub on the Wife's 04 I spread a little anti-sieze on the splines of the axle. Torqued the nut to spec and checked it again a week later.

greendot

I love learning stuff here

Never heard of the Nord-Locks before. That looks like a winner.

What I did was to double nut. Torque the second nut significantly less than the first nut so they don't jam together when you remove or they will screw up the threads on the shaft. Good use of those old nuts if you like to buy new.

fatbillybob

NO! Don't double nut. The OEM nut is not shaped properly to double nut and the first nut will be encouraged to come off. That is a big nut and I don't want to be behind you on the race track at 150mph with a 1 ounce missile coming at me.

This is a racing forum. If people are concerned with this then drill the axle and pin it. That nut in not under lots of force and even if off you can't get the axle out. The axle will only make noise slopping back and forth.

Froggy no persuation is needed the axle will slide right out. Take the upper ball joint and tierod off and the axle nut and the axle will slide right out. Take the lower BJ out to take the knucle out so you can remove the hub. I do not know why GM did it but the hub is in with T55 torx head bolts. I would switch to just plain 10.9 grade hex head bots so you can do it trackside without trying to find weird sized tools. Some like nordlocks here to but I have never needed that if torqued to spec with 271 locktite.

froggy47

Thanks!

rmackintosh

That is a good idea!

victorf

True to all accounts and to the recommendations!

In addition to double nutting, in terms of practicality for this case, even if the head of the first nut is machined off to provide more contact area for jamming, it is rather difficult to hold the first nut in position after it is torqued and to torque the second nut properly within the hub. Just snugging down the second nut will not be able to provide the proper stretched tension for proper retention of the first nut.

greendot

You guys are probably right, but I've put over 10,000 miles on my double nut job with no issues. YMMV

John B

He said double nut job. hehe

sperkins

Hmm. I've always just used my impact gun, no lordlocks, anti-seize etc..
Never really checked the torque on it, but I've never had a problem.

froggy47

I'm thinking this is really a non problem, that folks who thought it held the wheel on came up with (at least on c5's).

Dunno on c6's.