LSOHOLIC

I recently put the front and rear cradle back in the car. Need numbers for an aggressive alignment.

Purpose of my car.....weekend cruiser, road course about 4 times a year, drag strip about once a month, car see about 1200 miles a year.

Street tires...Nitto NT-05 335/19 & 285/18
Track tires...18's on all corners...scrub R888's

Or would a stock alignment work ??

Thanks...this is a C5Z

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travisnd

Front
*As much negative camber as the stock adjusters will allow
*Zero toe
*+6 caster or more

Rear
*As much negative camber as the adjusters will allow
*1/16" toe-in per side (1/8" sum toe)

LSOHOLIC

Thanks...I know this topic has been beat to death but every thread seems specific to that persons expectations or intentions. Because I searched and read for days.

For example.....

Front
Camber = -3.0
Caster = 7.3 deg
Toe = -.031

Rear
Camber = -1.8
Toe = -.094

But that much front camber for the street seems...

Just looking for input from the guys who know.

Thanks....would PFADT C5 recommendations work for me ??

naschmitz

Stock alignment will work just fine for 1200 miles a year on street tires.

Solofast

Yes but his 4 track days will eat the outsides of his track tires in a weekend...

A C5Z with the camber maxed out in the front will get about -2 degrees or thereabouts. That's probably a good starting place, and max out the caster to get at least -6. Toe should be a bit in (like 1/8 of an inch total toe) in the front. In the back -1 to -1.5 is about right and I'd toe it in in the back about 1/8 of an inch too.

Mark your front tie rods and when you put on your track tires crank one turn of toe out into each side in the front. This will give you some toe out and help the car turn in. When you take your track tires off, put it back to the street setting. It only takes about two minutes to do each side, easy and done. If you leave toe out into it, the car will be a lot more darty and will tramline over ruts and bumps. You won't fall asleep driving though...

This setup won't eat your street tires. It's toe out that does that, so, at 1200 miles a year they will get hard and rot before you wear them out. With this setup and approach I got about 15,000 miles on a set of Goodyears on the fronts, flipped them on the rims and got 5,000 more before they were gone. Also you will have a pretty amazing handling street car with this setup.

Nobody mentioned the drag weekends, but with the negative camber back there you are giving up some off the line bite.. Try running lower pressures in the rear tires to get some of that back when you are at the strip.

Z06trackman

I have a stock C5Z that I used to run NT-05s. The primary use was track and autocross. My track settings were -1.8 on LF, -1.3 on RF (my tracks run CW), and -0.9 on the rear. Front toe @ zero and rear total toe @ 1/8 in. Cold tire temps were around 32/ 28 F/R. This yielded even tire temps (except the RR which runs hot on the inside) and excellent wear, and a very nice handling car.

I used the pyrometer to dial in the chamber and pressures, and I used corner exit balance for the Rear toe. I highly recommend a probe type tire pyrometer for anyone who wants to dial in a car.

I used to carefully dial in and out toe for the street, autocross and track by counting flats on the nuts, but I found they soon went out of whack no matter how precise I thought I was (changing 17 times/year). Now I use a tape measure and sight down the side of the car from wheel to wheel to properly set the toe and thrust angle each time. It takes about 10 minutes when you get good at it - I don't even jack up the car (don't want to actually or bushing deflection will screw up the measurements - ask me how I know).

For the small amount of street driving you do you could probably just leave the toe at 1/8 and not suffer too much inside wear.

LSOHOLIC

Thanks guys for the input......I'll start with these suggestions.

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