Just did Laguna Seca in my '12 grand sport.. your input appreciated
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Just did Laguna Seca in my '12 grand sport.. your input welcomed
Hi Gents, I just drove Laguna Seca in my new, bone-stock '12 Grandsport & I'm very impressed w/ the car. It's a 1LT, 6spd, w/ npp exh. on stock GY F1's. It performed better than expected: air temp @ 70f, oil temp @ 210-225, coolant @ 200, & I didn't push it hard.
I'm open to advice on accelerated services (transmission or engine oil changes, oil grade, brake & clutch bleeding) recommended tire psi, etc, & I don't hammer my cars, doing seamless double-clutch downshifts. Bill Dearborn had (yet another) excellent post about seat belt tightening I wish I'd seen beforehand.
I started w/ 30psi on all 4 tires cold, but they continually hit high 30's-low40's, so I kept dropping to low-30's prior to each session & scuffage never went past those 'V' wear marks. The fronts got hotter than the rears, probably due to front end push & stock geometry(?), so I'm wondering what's optimal GY-F1 psi for best grip & wear?
FYI, I've done @ 20+ trackdays in cars & bikes, but won't be mod-ing this weekend driver into a track car, nor will I ditch the GY F1's. I've bought a new stock Z06 intake & filter, but that's it...for now.
I'm open to advice on accelerated services (transmission or engine oil changes, oil grade, brake & clutch bleeding) recommended tire psi, etc, & I don't hammer my cars, doing seamless double-clutch downshifts. Bill Dearborn had (yet another) excellent post about seat belt tightening I wish I'd seen beforehand.
I started w/ 30psi on all 4 tires cold, but they continually hit high 30's-low40's, so I kept dropping to low-30's prior to each session & scuffage never went past those 'V' wear marks. The fronts got hotter than the rears, probably due to front end push & stock geometry(?), so I'm wondering what's optimal GY-F1 psi for best grip & wear?
FYI, I've done @ 20+ trackdays in cars & bikes, but won't be mod-ing this weekend driver into a track car, nor will I ditch the GY F1's. I've bought a new stock Z06 intake & filter, but that's it...for now.
Last edited by Bedouin; 07-14-2015 at 02:25 PM.
#6
I was #152, black Z06.......I think I was checking my tire temps when you came up and introduced yourself?
I had to quit early; my brake fluid boiled and my foot went to the floor going into T2! Luckily, I had enough braking not to hit anything, and then limped around the track (lots of cars were dodging me) to exit. I tested the brakes in the paddock, but no brakes. After an hour brakes came back enough, but decided to pack it up and flush out system at shop.
It was fun meeting you.....hope to see you soon at next track event.
Jim aka harrydirty
I had to quit early; my brake fluid boiled and my foot went to the floor going into T2! Luckily, I had enough braking not to hit anything, and then limped around the track (lots of cars were dodging me) to exit. I tested the brakes in the paddock, but no brakes. After an hour brakes came back enough, but decided to pack it up and flush out system at shop.
It was fun meeting you.....hope to see you soon at next track event.
Jim aka harrydirty
#7
Safety Car
When I ran the C6 Z51 F1 Supercars I would start then 28f/26r or maybe 28f/28r. It's a while ago, but they didn't like higher pressures. You can't tell pressures very well with runflats, certainly not with sidewall scrub. Go with what feels good and lap times.
I'd bleed brakes before every event, and after again if they feel spongy at all. If you can keep an eye on oil pressure... GM just replaces the LS2 in my car... sustained left hand corners do a number on these motors (ie. T2 at Laguna, or T2 at Thunderhill, or the Carousel at Sears)...
I'd bleed brakes before every event, and after again if they feel spongy at all. If you can keep an eye on oil pressure... GM just replaces the LS2 in my car... sustained left hand corners do a number on these motors (ie. T2 at Laguna, or T2 at Thunderhill, or the Carousel at Sears)...