Those with Big Brakes and Wilwood/Tilton pedals
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Those with Big Brakes and Wilwood/Tilton pedals
I have always had to run "lesser" pads in the back of the Camaro to "dial back" the rear bias a bit...this was with a prop valve to the rear as well.
The new car has a Wilwood pedal setup with a balance bar, so I think it will be much better, but do you guys with similar setups use the same brake compounds front to rear?
I was thinking of running Raybestos Race compounds on the ST60/ST40 setup I have now, The 30 minute old pads on the ST60s are Raybestos ST45 compound--a pretty aggressive race pad. Was thinking of going with the Raybestos ST43--a aggressive race pad--for the rear?
What say you...a little less aggressive on the rears, or same pad compound all around????
Thanks.
The new car has a Wilwood pedal setup with a balance bar, so I think it will be much better, but do you guys with similar setups use the same brake compounds front to rear?
I was thinking of running Raybestos Race compounds on the ST60/ST40 setup I have now, The 30 minute old pads on the ST60s are Raybestos ST45 compound--a pretty aggressive race pad. Was thinking of going with the Raybestos ST43--a aggressive race pad--for the rear?
What say you...a little less aggressive on the rears, or same pad compound all around????
Thanks.
#3
Former Vendor
Pad Cf balance is common. I've often said "tune with pad" based upon the needs of the car.
You'd like to think the original design had some fore thought in the mc bore, rotor OD, caliper piston sizing etc and your balance bar need only be tweeked a bit from center. Same may be true now but pad Cf can help also.
FWIW, I'd not run a prop valve with a dual mc set up however.
You'd like to think the original design had some fore thought in the mc bore, rotor OD, caliper piston sizing etc and your balance bar need only be tweeked a bit from center. Same may be true now but pad Cf can help also.
FWIW, I'd not run a prop valve with a dual mc set up however.
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
Pad Cf balance is common. I've often said "tune with pad" based upon the needs of the car.
You'd like to think the original design had some fore thought in the mc bore, rotor OD, caliper piston sizing etc and your balance bar need only be tweeked a bit from center. Same may be true now but pad Cf can help also.
FWIW, I'd not run a prop valve with a dual mc set up however.
You'd like to think the original design had some fore thought in the mc bore, rotor OD, caliper piston sizing etc and your balance bar need only be tweeked a bit from center. Same may be true now but pad Cf can help also.
FWIW, I'd not run a prop valve with a dual mc set up however.
#5
Le Mans Master
I run Wilwood H in the front with my W6A caliper and actually Carbotech XP10 rear. I would equate the H to an XP12/16. The only downside of the H is that it takes a while to warm up compared to the A pad or any Carbotech pad. It seems the Carbotechs are just about ready right out of the gate, but H's take several laps to start working well. So first few laps are a bit odd until things get warmed up. The H's last a lot longer which I why I choose them up front.
#6
I usually like to run the same compound all the way around. I suggest starting with that, running the car and dialing in the bias. Make any m/c changes if necessary (you really want the bias bar setup very near the center when everything is working properly), and then play around with pads if necessary. Use the rotor paint as another tool to help you decide.