TriplBlk

I see couple dedicated track cars being built here and rather than pm'ing each owner, and all other owners I dont know, I figured I'd start a thread as it's not something that really came up in the "search" function.


This to me is just gorgeous, I could just sit here and stare lol. I think about adjustability, the ease of blipping the throttle when braking and downshifting, and probably a bunch of other things you could do, adjust clutch pedal height? along with the throw of it?

Either way, I know a bunch of people here have some serious setups and I'm very eager to get this pedal setup, and I'd love to get some input and even photo's of them installed in your car, or installation process even.

Thanks to all who post!

J.R.

I have run this setup for 3 years. Very happy with the way it works.

Lots of adjustability. I used a 1/4 in aluminum plate below floor for attachment. You can place fill cylinders either on engine side of firewall or inside (similar to most GT1 car setups). Sorry, no pics as car is not presently accessible.

TriplBlk

J.R I still am glad you joined to give your input. I was wondering how the attachment process would go. Id like to keep the same reservoirs for the brake and clutch, IF thats possible.

How do you like the shifting? What things about it did you favor?




Im curious if members "Short-throw", "Travsnd" or "Rmackintosh" have this as well.

J.R.

One of the advantages of this setup is that you can run separate cylinders for front/rear/and clutch. i.e. loosing front or rear brakes due to rubbing on line or other impediment on track does not possibly put car into wall etc. because of complete loss of braking ability.

You can also position it so that your seat location (if race seat) is positioned closer to tunnel - away from door bars for increased safety.

Also, you can set back seat so that weight is moved closer to rear of vehicle for better car balance - as long as you can maintain proper reach to steering wheel. This where a splined quick release wheel comes into play.

This setup lets you adjust proper height so that heel/toe is a lot easier by equalizing position of throttle pedal and brake pedal.

As far as shifting I didn't notice any particular change over stock setup.

TriplBlk

Ill remember all that! thank you.

The setup makes heel-toe look like a breeze as well. If I have the right one selected, the assembly is only ~$400. I assume that the Drive-by-wire setup is not affected and swaps right over?

J.R.

Drive by wire is affected.

You need to use cable setup (MSD/FAST or Camaro) throttle body.

There may be someone out there who have modified this to use drive by wire but I haven't seen one as cable is how the go pedal is set up from Tilton.

TriplBlk

Damn, and I know switching to cable isnt something easy. My harrop can do Cable tho, hmmm.

Short-Throw

Tripl,

I do have the Tilton brake pedal box and a separate throttle pedal.
The pedals are great for setting up a baseline front/rear control.















To dial in different setups, I also have a front/rear brake bias control inside the cockpit. (Circular red button on botom right of dash)




Perfectly pointed out (as all your other comments were too)!

Like packing a backup parachute.



I don't disagree but gorgeous factor aside, the main reason to go with such a setup is safety!


Mike

TriplBlk

Short-throw, Im so glad you joined this thread. The front and rear brake bias is something Im very interested in actually! The Dial was something I wanted that I use to think was obtained by using a proportioning valve.

I have to figure out the gas pedal now though. I didnt really want to lose active handling, or traction control, or w.e else there is with the switch. I absolutely love the 3 pedal setup and I was seriously hoping you had a fix. But with a Holinger trans I wouldnt be surprised if you had a stand alone system with a cable setup lol

I havn't seen how the stock setup works but hopefully someone has done something lol.

Zip Corvettes

That is the setup in mine but I am using the steel version. The aluminum was not available in a 3 pedal setup when I bought mine. I am working on a adjustable plate that my pedals bolt down to. I am retaining my drive by wire and have a setup that will utilize the factory sensor. We are still building it so when it is done I will post up pictures.

TriplBlk

Is the setup your using to retain DBW that complicated? Im very interested in this and have no problem getting it, just want to tie up loose ends.

davidfarmer

I would not convert a street car to a pedal box. Rewiring for a cable, re-plumbing the clutch...just not necessary.

I converted just the brakes over, using the master shown above. I removed the booster, made some brackets, and bolted this to the outside firewall. With some tweaking, I had a very nice system that I could bias infinitely.

rmackintosh

I have a Wilwood setup very much like the one in Short-Throw's photos--dual pedal. I did this so that I could KEEP the drive by wire setup that I had. I mounted the pedals on square tubing that can be moved forward or backward as needed. We built a strong bracket to hang off the side as well to mount the gas pedal to so that it is adjustable as well.

I just felt the hanging pedals would "feel" more like what I am used to. The floor mounted ones seem weird to me...JMHO.

John B

Please don't get me started. Leave this crap alone. Probably should bend a piece of sheet metal for a clasp with this set up. Then you could use 5/16 threaded rod for a pushrod. Then when that bends in a u under your foot pressure you could thread 29 nuts over the threaded rod to make it stronger.

Zip Corvettes

It depends on what is complicated to you. Pretty simple actually. I have a bracket that is attached to my lower plate the pedal box bolts to. It needs to be reinforced but the factory pedal where the sensor is located and the plate is bolted to it. The pedal is cut short and there is a rod end bearing and tube mounted from the Tilton pedal to the factory pedal, they both slide and are bolted to the same plate so they move together. This way you can adjust the rod to give you different ratios of acceleration between the two pedals and best of all my car is dbw.

TriplBlk

I guess Im gonna have to wait till you finish it haha. Im worried Ill take it all apart and not be able to get it running properly and have throttle issues. Havnt had a chance to take a look at the setup yet.

Everett Ogilvie

The Mosler has the Tilton setup as well. It uses a C5 gas pedal and retains the drive-by-wire throttle setup;

TriplBlk

That is really nice, maybe Id do that as back up.

I really like the Tilton 3 pedal because the gas pedal and brake are so close.

Can anyone explain exactly how the Throttle sensor works? Is it extremely tedious to where its position is critical to the accelerators operation?

wallyman424

Are you looking for bling or functionality? Because the amount of fabrication to install any of this is immense.

Unless youre running GT1 speeds in a completely ridiculous racecar, there is no need for any of this.

TriplBlk

I was unaware of the install being immense. Without looking at the instructions I assumed I just needed a plate to mount the pedals, re run lines for clutch and the brake reservoirs and decide on the throttle setup.

I was looking for functionality yes, but it's also hard to say they don't look good. I was basing this purchase off of install,functionality and looks.

Could you or other owners explain why it is so difficult? I'll look more into it but didn't know it would be THAT hard.

Thanks