yow

I have 1/8" toe in, in the front. 2.7* camber left, 2.9* camber right.
I have 1/4" toe in, in the back. 1.7* camber left, 1.9* camber right.

This was my first attempt at a home alignment job in prep for Road Atlanta June 16-17. I am worn out after fighting with guess-n-check for 5 hours. Am I good to go? Or do I need to keep working on it to get less toe-in in the front or back?

I feel like I need less camber on my right side, perhaps even more on my left (for Road Atl, at least). What do you think?

Should I have just spent the $60 and let someone else do it for me?!!! (probably so)

trapp

I'm set at -2.5 front and -1.5 rear....I run R6 Hoosier and they wear perfect as well as even temps across the tires...I have only about 1/16 toe out on the front and toe in (same) on the back..

Not a bad alignment.........Mine cost about 65 bucks..

davidfarmer

you need zero, or about 1/16" max toe OUT in the front. Either way, you need to get it closer to zero. Camber is fine.

just loosen each front tie rod about 2 flats, and you should be closer.......

yow

What does that mean? Flats?

BEZ06

David is talking about the flat sections of the hex nuts. Of course a hex nut has 6 flat sections on it, so David's recommendation of 2 flats means 1/3 of a turn of the tie rod adjuster link.

Bob

Bill Dearborn

Actually it isn't the Hex Jam nuts that hold the setting. It is the hex shaped portion of the tie rod itself. Each flat should be about a 1/32 change.

For the OP: If you are getting 4 wheel alignments done for $60 that is a really great price if the person doing them is any good. The advantage to doing them yourself is you probably get a better job and when you switch back to the street alignment you don't have to pay again. Most people set there cars up so all they have to do to change from street to track is subtract or add washers at the upper control arm mounts, then adjust toe based on marks they put on the tire rods. That way you can switch back and forth without a lot of the hassle and just do a thorough check every now and then.

Bill

383

So to do it that way should I add 3 or so washers to the top and then get my street alignment where I want it then for the track just pull the washers, toe and go? asuming I use -2.5 track and -1 street. I guess what Im asking is whats a washer worth in camber?

yow

Yeah the reason I wanted to learn to do it on my own is so I can go back and forth without having to pay each time. It will be especially handy now that I know how to make minor adjustments. I got it to about 2.8* fronts and 1.5* back. Front is 1/16 to out and rear is 1/16 toe in.

I'm doing NASA's Road Atlanta next weekend in HPDE2. After that I'll go back to my previous settings according to Pfadt's street/track setup. I had 1.2* front and .8* back and at Memphis, in 2 days, I still wore much more on the outside edge. More camber should make it wear more evenly at Road Atl.

2MCHPWR

what characteristics will happen if the OP used 1/8" toe in for the front?

Racingswh

The car wants to go straight and the wheel typically stays on center down the straights. That makes sense as the front tires are pointing towards each other. Some drivers feel like it's not as "darty" feeling on turn in.

383

I actually like some toe out front because I mostly auto-x and it seems to help with turn in but a road course may be different.
Ive tried 1/4 out but it seemed to swing the *** lose on entry so I dialed it back to about 1/8 and Ill test this weekend.
This is my last race on street tires so Ill have to learn what the new ones like.

C5Lion

The washers that come with the car give you about 0.4 degrees each when removed.

sperkins

You'll burn through the front tires in short order too with the way it is.
I couldn't imagine trying to drive a Corvette at the limit with 1/8 front toe in.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

What do you have for tires? Could be enough camber...might be to much.

Also I would run toe out at the front, toe in at the rear. The amount of that is going to be what you feel comfortable with as far as driver feel as well as tire wear.

Get some tire temps while you are there, and record what you change if anything.

383

Will it screw up the thrust angle if you adjust one side camber to even both sides out? I adjusted both rear sides evenly on the cam bolts and after settling it on an auto-x course the pass side is -.5 camber and the driver side is -1.5(where I wanted it).
My thrust angle is good now.
Can I do the camber+toe on the pass side wheel only and be ok?

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

When you change camber you change toe.

froggy47

I agree with David. I would set front toe to zero, unless you are an advanced driver, then a touch out, use your feel for the car.

Your camber is good enough, for now.

It's easy to change toe at the track if you bring ramps.

Remember toe (in or out) will kill the tires street driving.

383

Right but if you do one side more does that effect thrust angle?

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

When talking about rear camber and toe...yes. Because you are moving one wheel independent of the chassis...so yes it is going to throw off thrust.

froggy47

Here are some good diagrams that explain alignment. They take a while to load. Scroll down to thrust.

http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm