ltborg

I've seen a little information on people moving the subframes on these cars to get the alignment they want when one side of the car ends up more camber limited than the other. Is this as simple as loosening the subframe bolts and using a pry bar or 2x4 to shift the subframe then tighten everything back up? Is there anything special that needs to be taken into account when doing this (other than getting an alignment afterwards)? I have a 2004 coupe that I autocross and I can't get more than about -0.8 camber on the left rear and I am thinking about doing this to try and help things out.

davidfarmer

there are alignment pins that hold the subframe in place. I'd loosen the bolts and attemp to force it to the side, and see if it moves any. If it doesn't, you will need to either trim/remove the pins, or enlarge the holes they fit into.

It's not a big deal, you don't have to drop the subframe enough to disconnect anything (wiring, brake lines etc). Chances are you could drop it a bit, hit the pins with a hand grinder, and tighten it all back up in no time.

ltborg

Thanks David. Unless it's called for in the service manual, I don't think I can legally grind or modify the frame to get things to work out. I'm sure no one would notice, but I'd rather play it safe. If I can't get the frame shifted without modifying anything, would a frame machine be the next step? Any change the steel frame is on the out of spec side of factor tolerances and that could be a solution? I've read a few posts on people having their frames aligned to within very tight tolerances of factory spec but I don't know what to look for in terms of a shop/equipment to make that happen.

travisnd

The general process I've heard is loosen the bolts and have a helper use the biggest BFPB you have and pry it to the side it needs to go to then tighten everything while helper holds. My car is slightly off side to side, but not enough to make me want to deal with prying the cradle. Plus, I don't have a lift so it's not quite as easy to do.

Bill Dearborn

Have you tried to use camber plates? I was never able to get more than -.8 camber on the rear of my 97 or 03Z. When I installed camber plates on the front of the Z I found I had to use a pry bar to get them in since they moved the control arms out more than the stock cams did.

Bill

travisnd

I have camber blocks in the rear. With both LCAs moved out as far as possible I'm at like -1.6 on one side and -1.0 on the other. Only way to fix it is to ream out the cross-member adjustment hole or pry the cradle over to even it up.

ltborg

Unfortunately, camber plates aren't allowed by the rules. The stock eccentric bolts have to stay in there. Same with opening up bolt holes, slots, etc.