If you separate ball joints from control arms step in please
#2
Safety Car
If you mean removing the balljoint from the control arm then lmost every chain autoparts store will loan you a balljoint separator. They work great.
If you mean separating the balljoint from the spindle then go on eBay and buy the Kent-Moore GM separator tool. I got tired of rigging a pulley puller and using random stuff so I spent the money on the specific tool for the job. They usually go for about $70 on eBay.
If you mean separating the balljoint from the spindle then go on eBay and buy the Kent-Moore GM separator tool. I got tired of rigging a pulley puller and using random stuff so I spent the money on the specific tool for the job. They usually go for about $70 on eBay.
#3
Safety Car
Other option is using heat. I have not done this, but apparently the ball joint will come out easily (fall out) if you heat the area with something like MAPP gas.
There was a topic on this a while ago, see the reply by LG.
There was a topic on this a while ago, see the reply by LG.
#4
Burning Brakes
I use a balljoint puller that I bought from Advanced Auto for around $20-$30. It has made life so much easier when dealing with balljoints and removing hubs when needed. Put it in place, tighten it up and the part just pops off. Well worth it to have one in your garage toolbox
#5
Race Director
You need to heat them up and then press them out with a ball joint press or hydraulic press. If you beat them out and damage the inside aluminum socket you're be buying some new A-Arms.
I've done it several times on a few different cars. It also helps to put the new ball joints into the freezer over night before installing them. This shrinks them down. Heat up the A-Arm a bit and press in and then let cool. Install dust boots.
I've done it several times on a few different cars. It also helps to put the new ball joints into the freezer over night before installing them. This shrinks them down. Heat up the A-Arm a bit and press in and then let cool. Install dust boots.
#6
Melting Slicks
Do you want to get the ball joint out of the control arm? or separate it from the spindle? If you want to separate it from the spindle, get the Kent-Moore tool, works great. I got mine on e-bay. If you are trying to take it out of the A-arm to replace it? go to Advance Auto and they will lend you ( for free, they charge you then give you the money back when you bring the tool back) a ball joint puller kit with all of the dies and pieces you will need to take them out and put the new ones back in. JD
#8
Safety Car
Do you want to get the ball joint out of the control arm? or separate it from the spindle? If you want to separate it from the spindle, get the Kent-Moore tool, works great. I got mine on e-bay. If you are trying to take it out of the A-arm to replace it? go to Advance Auto and they will lend you ( for free, they charge you then give you the money back when you bring the tool back) a ball joint puller kit with all of the dies and pieces you will need to take them out and put the new ones back in. JD
I've had the Kent Moore tool not work perfectly... usually on the fronts which get so much force put through them. I learned to put tension on the tool then jack up on the spindle to use the spring force on the LCA to assist in separation. Then a small tap with a hammer will make it pop free.
#11
Le Mans Master
That works perfectly for the UCA spindle ball joint.
For the LCA you can do what Brian does, jack up on the hub putting load on the spring, tap the LCA where the ball joint goes in and let the spring do the work.
Also, you can use a 2 jaw puller. They're cheap and effective for the LCA, but won't work on the rears because the axle is in the way.
Here's a 2 jaw puller:
For the LCA you can do what Brian does, jack up on the hub putting load on the spring, tap the LCA where the ball joint goes in and let the spring do the work.
Also, you can use a 2 jaw puller. They're cheap and effective for the LCA, but won't work on the rears because the axle is in the way.
Here's a 2 jaw puller:
#12
Race Director
Thread Starter
I eventually got the upper off using a 2 arm puller, but it was a "long" arm one so the other end was getting in the way of stuff, even with the corner turned.
If that works for the tops only, I'll be happy. I have done the bottom using David's method.
Thanks!
Do you guys put anything on the "cones" to make it easier next time, or would that make it impossible to tighten the nut to spec?
If that works for the tops only, I'll be happy. I have done the bottom using David's method.
Thanks!
Do you guys put anything on the "cones" to make it easier next time, or would that make it impossible to tighten the nut to spec?