Vettechris996

Hey guys,

I just installed a Pfadt camber kit in my C5Z and had the car aligned because I had the front eccentrics slip auto crossing about 2 weeks ago. My race setup is a C5Z rear wheel (Speedline 18x10.5) up front with a Toyo R888 (295). Well I just bolted up the race wheels for an event this weekend and the added track width with the camber kit makes the wheels hang out more than I expected/would like to see. Has any one had issues with contact with the fender? I drive the car to and from events like this, on Pfadt adjustable shocks and stock Z06 springs. Currently setup with -2.2 degrees of camber. I'm definitely a bit concerned since i just dropped a good deal of money on the kit and the alignment which took the tech a while with the shims etc. What are my options from here? I did notice that after the eccentric slipped the nut didn't feel as tight as it should, I don't know if that's a result of the slip or the cause but I figured the kit would eliminate the problem forever, now I'm wondering if I made the right choice and kicking myself for not checking the torque on the eccentric nuts more often....Thanks for the help

sperkins

I run over 3 degrees of camber with locking camber plates/bolts and have never had an issue. The car is lowered quite a bit too.

C5ZEE06

maybe youve got more offset (more notches) in the lower control arms plates than what you ideally need (and consequently more shims on the top arms) - making the wheel protrude more.
which lower plates did the tech install ? and how many shims (and what thickness) ?

btw i also use the rear 10.5" rim up front with 315s and pfadt kit.....no issues here.

Vettechris996

I am running the shim with 6 notches per the instructions on the lower arms and probably at least 2 or 3 of the thickest shims on the top, more than that on the front of each arm to get some caster. I could go with a less aggressive shim set on the lower arms but the kit only has 4 of each, I'd need 8.

kmagvette

On stock springs I got substantial tire/fender rub at the track...went to DRM Coil-Overs / Phatty bars and the problem was mostly eliminated. I hit the fenders pretty hard with a file to help them "right-size" themselves. Occasionally they still need a little more file.

Vettechris996

Per Pfadt's recommendation I pulled the front spring out tonight and tested the full travel of the suspension with the wheels on. It does just tuck inside the fender at absolute full travel so I think it will be just fine, at most just graze the fender but it would take a pretty serious hit. For reference I have 4 of the thickest shims on the front of each front upper control arm and 3 of the thickest shims on the rear of the front upper control arms. I think I'll be fine for now but I would like to narrow the track width by 2-3 mm per side in the future.

dbratten

On my C6 I ran for a year or more using the 5 notch plates in front of the bottom A-arm and 6 in the rear to give caster. This will allow you to reduce the shims on top. Also, it gives you the option of running lower number set of shims as you only need four of each.