jwg2

I had the misfortune of smashing the front end of my car with a deer a few weeks ago. The good news is I need new front body work. I had planned on a splitter and wing kit next year, but since I'm redoing the front end now I get to do the aero package now.

The car is streetable but does mostly HPDE track duty. I have a track tuned alignment, and it is mildly lowered on a SCCA T1 suspension kit. The car is reasonably well balanced now, though will understeer a bit if I run Toyos instead of Hoosier R6s.

I'm not looking for anything too radical, but this is about "go" not "show" so weird or ugly is ok. Ideally just want nicely matched front and rear kit that is going to help me stick a little better and go a little faster. I'm comfortable doing some light fabrication so if any of you have mixed and matched off the shelf parts with your own solutions I'd love to hear about what you've done.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8FBxS-00xU

Timothy Lottes

You might find this thread useful: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...radiators.html.

Also working out the aero on my C5. Decided on going the more extreme route going with a front breather and tubing the car in front of the front suspension cradle, going with ACP's tunneled undertray, 4" splitter, and front fascia from the world challenge bodywork. For the hood what I want is something more like the 2013 Viper GTS-R hood: naca duct in the middle for intake with well defined radiator exits to the left and right, but with added louvers for the wheel wells. No one makes that unfortunately for the C5.

Of all the front breathing C5s (and custom C6's), I seen just about every possible air intake method and would really like to understand the practical difference between the options: everything from hot-air-intake air filter directly on the throttle body (cheap but how much HP do you loose this way sucking post radiator air?, and do you really want that much pressure drop in the engine bay?), custom cold-air intake to the front license plate (packaging looks horrible), and those doing custom cold-air intake in the fog lighting slots (packaging looks easier but less ideal as it is closer to the hot road).

As for non-custom hood options,

(1.) ACP has a world challenge hood which is louvered in the center and non-cowl: (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1571329117-post2.html). They also have cowl hoods which have center and wheel well louvers, but the louver exit lines are not clean (compare to the C6 one at the bottom of this page): http://www.advancedcompositeproducts...vetteHoods.htm.

(2.) Visracing has something that looks to have the louvers in the wrong location: http://www.visracing.com/newcatalog/...iber-Hood.html

(3.) There is this custom C5 hood, http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...t-weekend.html, which looks better, but is a one off, and they were looking to find 5 for a group buy to amortize the cost for more. This hood is NOT the http://www.mechamperformance.com/d_docs/h_c5.html one which looks to have the wheel louvers too far forward.

JVetthead

maybe something like this?

spazegun2213

You need to stop posting pictures of that, and make me one already

So the "common" setup is this
1) c5 body kit Nose, from ecklers
2) ACP 4" splitter
3) Wing, mine is from fulcrum aerowerks and ties into the frame and bolts to the decklid, so I can open close the hatch (its super trick). But Kognition wings are really popular as well, and most of those tie into the frame/rear bumper and come though the rear bumper.

For you, I'd almost recommend a stock nose and get an ACP splitter that fits over the nose. Several people have them (woodsy) and they can be screwed or riveted in place. You'll 100% want to remove this if you drive it on the street.

good luck!

yooper

I'll take one too along with the hood!

John Shiels

My car is ACP and it works great. Get the Laguna under-tray. How much are you looking to spend? 4" splitter is really hard on the street but works the best. click on sig pictures for bigger view. Vent the fender-wells.

Timothy Lottes

I was curious about this, so I measured a street C6 with a small splitter which I knew could make it up the worst incline I expected to actually drive on. C6 splitter was roughly 3.6" off the ground, and eyeballed splitter extending 38" in front of the wheel center with a tape measure (could be off a little here). Roughly this equates to a 5.5 degree maximum incline (head on) to scrape.

Estimating the C5 has 1" extra front overhang, the ride high required to match the 5.5 degree incline on the C5 with a {flush, 2", and 4" extended splitter} would be {3.7", 3.9", 4.1"}. So roughly 0.4" ride height difference between flush and 4" extended splitter for the "same" streetability. Guessing the downforce advantage for the 4" splitter probably holds even at the slightly higher ride height over the flush case.