geerookie

As we all know when you install coil-overs the axle boot gets very close to the spring and then if you want to do anything with upgrading the toe links you basically have it so close all it takes is the slightest vibration or bump and you rub or cut a boot.

I wanted to change the toe links to a setup with heim-joints and also be able to adjust the bump steer. When I changed the toe links they rubbed on the springs if I left about 2mm - 3mm clearance for the boots.

Anyway, I solved the problem and was able to use the new toe links and also significantly improved the rear bump steer.

drivinhard

cool, I have thought of that (offset toe link mount). for sure they OEM is at an angle

Cobra4B

Is that an aftermarket axle boot? Mine looks nothing like that? Did you fab up your own parts to off-set the toe link?

geerookie

Also a MUCH smaller boot.
The offset actually made a big improvement in the bump steer curve.

geerookie

No/Yes and Yes.

The boot fits a 2010 Camaro. You can use the factory one but there's a company that has a stronger version aftermarket and if you notice, it doesn't require a clamp on the small end. Another nice thing which I forgot to take a picture of when putting them together is that it is vented on the small end!

RX-Ben

wow, so much space it looks like you are using 2" springs!

sperkins

I had this exact same issue a couple of weeks ago when I installed new coilevers on a friend's car. Boot to spring clearance wasn't as much of an issue as spring to tie rod. The tie rod is actually touching the spring on one side. I was told to grind the tie rod a bit to make room, but I just don't like it. If the arm moves at all during travel/stress, it's going to pusj against the rod end and cause the wheel to toe-out which is obviously a bad thing. Can you share vendor information and maybe part numbers for the pieces you used?
Thanks!
SP

RX-Ben

If that is an S car, he can run the Blackdog or 3R setup - see post 7 and on - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...coilovers.html

PITA to do a BS analysis, but if done a nice benefit that should help allow lower rear ride height.

I'll save Greg some typing on the boots - Driveshaftshop - 2010 Camaro outer boots.

trackboss

Did you try to bumpsteer prior to moving the inboard mount? Reason I ask is because I have the same zip kit and used it as designed because I don't have coil springs. I was able to eliminate bumpsteer with what they provide in the kit.

geerookie

I'm not sure what you are wanting to clarify......

Yes I did the bump steer curves before moving the mount and the bump steer kit does improve the curve if used as designed.

But in the case of us running coil-overs there are significant clearance issues and my goal was to improve the clearances without screwing up the bump steer.

Obviously I was able to gain significant clearance and an added side benefit of moving the toe link location further back was an even greater improvement in the bump steer curve.

Hope that clarifies things.

trackboss

My bumpsteer throughout almost the entire suspension cycle (the suspension would never cycle that much under normal street or track circumstances) was damn near zero. I couldn't imagine it being any better. In essence, I didn't see any room for improvement anywhere and couldn't imagine moving anything from where I have it being better that's all. Your post suggested to me that there was still some bump steer with the original setup and that it got better when you moved the inboard mount.

fatbillybob

In T1 racing we had so much problem with boots and reman axles that we all gave up and just buy new GM axles. The GM z06 boots are 80 buck ea. and the axle comple 300. So are these 2010 camaro boots GM boots? How much do they cost? You guys using them with success under race conditions?

geerookie

The only place I ever had issues with factory or reman'd boots was at Pocono when we ran the NASCAR track or the single infield which included NASCAR 1 & 2.
I ran these boots there a few weeks ago without the slightest issue and will be there for 3 days starting tomorrow.

They are not GM Boots. Driveshaftshop - 2010 Camaro outer boots

If I remember correctly they were about $70 for the pair with bands and new grease delivered to my door.

el es tu

subscribed

NASAblue

This is crap-o-la!!!

I was all excited to put on the bilstein based coilover to replace QA1 that aren't really reputable road race shocks, but the highly touted coilover setups rub on the cv at full extension and rub on the tie rod in compression (not full). This thread shows that $5000 coilovers on down rub on the rear. I was better off with my home made set of QA1! Even if the shock is sub par RR performance, at least it didn't rub on the cv boot or bind on the tie rod.

I spoke with JA phoenix a few months back and he said "honestly we only recommend the t1 setup and no coilovers at all..." I'm starting to see why. There is no way I'm comfortable with 1/4 inch clearance at normal ride height and it pisses me off that these things are sold as bolt on fitment only to find out you need to pull apart the cv joint and mod it with 2010 camaro boots and offset tie rods.

Though I appreciate the great information in this thread and respect the posters intent and information to solve the problems, it's inexcusable for manufacturers to put a product like this on the market. If we blow a boot because of inadequate coilover clearance issues and it takes out a brake line, that's coming back on the manufacturer.

Shame on their names for misleading thousands of customers with poor product development.

dvandentop

how does it look for clearance when that side is loaded??? or were these pics taken loaded? regarless looks like the spring is missing paint in 1st set of pics

geerookie

Springs are missing paint from rubbing on the toe links before the modifications.

Those pictures are with the car sitting at ride height. There is plenty of clearance from full droop to full compression even with the bump stops out.

mgarfias

What kind of bolt are you running on the inner heim? You have it in single shear now, which isn't my preference, and you should make sure the bolt is up to the task. Also have learned the hard way to put a cone shaped washer behind where you have your lock nut.

Falcon

Imagine how must weight that car could lose if you would get rid of the rust on that castle nut.

geerookie

They are no longer there. I had to redo the mounting and remove the tapered pins in order to correct the geometry issues created when I relocated the upper coilover mounts in order to lower the ride height.