CTZoom

Also posted in the Z06 section......car is a 2006 Z06.

1. I am chasing a start circuit wiring diagram - I need to know which wire to interrupt in the start switch wiring for my battery kill switch?

2. Coolings system design. Down here In Australia, it can get quite hot so I need advice on the best race spec cooling systems. Does anyone use laminova type coolers? What electric pumps do you use -the meziere people have been far from helpful - disappointingly. Those who do not use electric pumps, are you using a flow restrictor as well as the 160deg thermostat? Are you modifying the pump impellor to stop cavitation? I am already planning a large dual pass alloy radiator (PWR) and seperate oil cooler FYI...

thanks,
Chris

JDIllon

I live in Florida, mid to high 90s all summer. 2006 highly modded Z. I run a Ron Davis radiator with trans and eng. oil cooler and it works fine. JD

CTZoom

Thanks - what type of circuit racing do you do? What is the longest you are on track?
thks

JDIllon

Just running HPDEs, 30 minute sessions. I'm sure some racers will chime in. JD

BEZ06

Hi Chris

I see you're over here in the section of the forum where you'll get great info for tracking your car!!

You don't need to check the RPO code list in your glove box - you've got a U.S. spec car so you'll have a UJ9. That RPO code is for the TPMS computer installed in the car (it's actually part of the RCDLR - Remote Control Door Lock Receiver).

The 2005-2009 cars built for delivery in North America have the UJ9 TPMS. In 2010 they changed to a UJM TPMS.

The two different TPMS Units require different tire pressure sensors.

If you're familiar with the C5 then you know about the tire pressure sensors. However, the sensors and TPMS are much more intrusive in the C6.

The reason i asked over in the Z06 section was to find out what TPMS you have - the UH3 was an even different TPMS in cars built for delivery outside of the U.S./Canada.

The point is that the C6 can be unfriendly on the track if you try to run without tire pressure sensors!!!

Different model years seem to have different tolerances for running without sensors, so you can do some searching here on the forum for more info.

Do you plan to run without sensors?

How long are your track sessions - will there be endurance races?

The problem is that after a period of time (about 60 minutes for your 2006) your AH (Active Handling) cannot be turned off or put into Comp mode, and if you were in Comp or had AH off completely it will automatically come back on and be VERY intrusive putting on individual brakes when you try to turn in, and pulling power when you try to accelerate until you are going perfectly straight.

Some people have problems, and others don't seem to have issues, but a lot of us just run sensors to avoid any possible problems. You need a TPMS tool to program new sensors in if you have a couple sets of track wheels/tires.

Bob

CTZoom

Thanks guys.

My longest race is 60 minutes at tracks like Phillip Island and Mt Panorama. This is basicly the 2nd tier of GT racing in Australia.

I plan to run the sensors in a cannister and have already purchased a TPMS tool as well. Actually, I bought 4 pallets of parts in with my car including ARE dry sump upgrades, parts from Katech and PFADT, plus the car already has LG long tube headers and full exhaust fitted. This is a serious build.

So, anyone got advice for me re cooling? Happy to get PM's if they are secrets but I really want to get the build of this car right from the start. My previous car, a turbo miata with 400hp at the wheels could run all day in 110F weather in race spec - this is what I need from the Z06.

Also, any wiring diagrams available??

thanks...

trackboss

Some info on the cooling. Quite some time ago I damaged my skid and decided to build my own custom one. In addition I built a dual pass radiator and incorporated a laminova oil cooler. My car is a street car so there were quite a few restrictions, but I made it work. In a race car you can do something similar, but even better. I've used oil to water coolers (built into the radiator) in the past on both street and race cars. They worked ok(some better than others), but after building the system with the laminova I think it is a superior cooler. I've also driven race cars with air cooled oil coolers and they worked well as long as they were sized properly, but they do have some limitations. I personally avoid using them. IMO, a laminova is the ideal cooling solution. It provides a whole lot of surface area in a compact package. It has a lot of flexibility as far as where it can be located as long as you have fabrication skills. In addition, it is a very robust unit, and easily rebuildable as it is modular in construction.




If you need more info just ask. There is much more that can be done for a real race car. As long as you are willing to do the work.
-V

1leg

Electric water pumps are not always the best solution for a car used for road racing. A lot will depend on how much HP, how long will the car be on the track, and if the rest of the coolant system is up to the task. If your engine is basically stock and still under 600hp and you race for short periods (think minutes) of time then a 55gpm electric water pump might work fine if the rest of your coolant system is up to the task. If you plan to make over 600hp and or using turbo/supercharger or racing for long periods (think hours) then a belt driven water pump would be a better solution.

CTZoom

Trackboss - that is exactly the type of info I was chasing down. Thanks for the pics. I have a similar setup in mind. Did you use a flow restrictor apart from the thermostat? I do all my own fabrication so brackets etc are no issue for me to make, I'd be interested in hearing what other thoughts you have.

I am interested in the comments regarding electric pumps. All the race cars I have built all used electric pumps and all are GT type cars racing door to door for 60 minutes and longer. I find it hard to believe that the corvette GT spec cars like the C6R runs mechanical pumps. Surely there is an electric pump solution for these on the track.

Also, I am still in need of a wiring diagram for the dash. start circuit if anyone can help?

trackboss

No flow restrictor. Just stock thermostat in mine. If it were a race car I'd probably just open it up and let it flow. Then only try restrictor if necessary, but a restrictor can cause cavitation.
FWIW, I raced a 525hp vintage mustang a long time ago and it had a trick setup using a remote meziere water pump that could be switched on/off by the driver. That car didn't have any cooling issues. The electric pump actually was nice because there was a red flag mid-race and I was able to shut the motor, but run the pump and not heat soak.

harrydirty

Regarding TPMS sensors........I have seen comments on the forum for some drivers who swear the pressurized canister scheme works, but others who point out that sensors go into sleep mode unless they are motion activated (as in wheel motion).

Personally I run sensors in my track wheels and have personally experienced problems when trying to run without sensors.....not fun!

I have a 2007 Z06..........

Supercharged111

Being a race car, is eliminating ABS/AH something that you might entertain? Or might that affect your classification?

db2xpert

The thermostat is also a flow restictor.
Running without any flow restrictor often causes cooling problems.
As far as I know, all race teams run restrictors.
S

db2xpert

The thermostat is also a flow restrictor.

Running without any flow restrictor often causes cooling problems.

As far as I know, all the top race teams run restrictors.
You may have to play with different diameter restrictors to get the best flow and cooling. It will probably be somewhat smaller than the diameter of the ring on your thermostat if you cut out the guts and left only the outer ring.

Unless this will be a full track car, you're better off with a thermostat.

trackboss

I understand the thermostat is a restriction. I was referring to race cars. I know of some who don't run any restrictor. Years ago when I spoke to someone at C&R radiators he said not to run any sort of restrictor as well. All because of cavitation. In my old race car I ran the largest restrictor I could find and had no cooling problems. All of the above leads me to believe that water flowing too fast through the system and needing a restrictor is all but a myth.

CTZoom

I want the ABS - but would love to kill the AH. Any ideas? Btw, I am still chasing a wiring schematic or the starting circuit..anyone??

CTZoom

I want the ABS - but would love to kill the AH. Any ideas? Btw, I am still chasing a wiring schematic or the starting circuit..anyone??