interesting problem...
08-17-2012, 06:18 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
interesting problem...
So last time I drove the car was on track, and it was perfect. Today I went to drive it and the steering wheel is off almost half a full rotation to keep the wheels straight. Wtf. Any ideas?
08-17-2012, 10:15 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Bleed brakes, checked tie rods, changed rigors, pads, wheels, tires, nothing. Ugh. I can't see a track day screwing up alignment
08-17-2012, 10:50 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
Ok dumb question time.
1. Removeable steering wheel?
2. Does anyone else have keys that may have driven it since then?
3. Does the car have stock eccentric bolts? Maybe one has slipped badly which would throw off the toe.
1. Removeable steering wheel?
2. Does anyone else have keys that may have driven it since then?
3. Does the car have stock eccentric bolts? Maybe one has slipped badly which would throw off the toe.
08-17-2012, 11:04 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
08-18-2012, 09:59 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
08-19-2012, 12:44 AM
#7
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Ya. Tried that. Because that is what it seems like. But can't find anything . I did uncover some more info. The wheel is not off, its simply pulling to the left that much. If I back up with the wheel straight at like...2mph, the wheel starts moving almost a half turn. No way that is alignment. I also noticed the car is maybe .5" lower now on the pass side compaired to the right. It wasn't like that before. Coilovers are still in place and tight. I said screw it and drove it for 10 hours today to road America and back. Only problem that came up was I had to hood the wheel to keep the car straight. I've taken it all apart on each corner. Nothing looks wrong or loose. I'm so stumped and pissed.
08-19-2012, 07:33 AM
#9
Le Mans Master
Sounds like a slipped cam bolt to me. One slips and moves either all the way in or out, which throws the caster way off on one side, and instant pull.
Do a quick visual on your alignment; I won't be surprised if "one of these doesn't look like the others."
Good luck, and have a good one,
Mike
Do a quick visual on your alignment; I won't be surprised if "one of these doesn't look like the others."
Good luck, and have a good one,
Mike
08-19-2012, 08:59 AM
#10
Premium Supporting Vendor
Although its possible a tie rod end came lose, almost certainly your a-arm concentric bolts have shifted which will change toe, camber and caster. Most guys that race mark their concentric bolts with something like nail polish for this reason. I check mine after every track session.
The concentric bolts are on the lower a-arms where the a-arm bolts to the frame. To move the front or rear portion of the a-arm in or out (which changes camber, caster and impacts toe), the cam bolt is rotated. Moving the forward cam bolt such that the front of the a-arm goes out mostly gets you more negative camber, but also decreases caster and will cause a large toe in. Moving the rear cam bolt such that the rear of the a-arm goes out mostly gets you more caster, but also increases negative camber and will also cause some toe in. On the rear toe goes out when you move the concentric bolts out as the rear tie rod is behind the wheel vice in front.
At this point, your only real option is to get the car realigned then mark the concentric bolts.
The concentric bolts are on the lower a-arms where the a-arm bolts to the frame. To move the front or rear portion of the a-arm in or out (which changes camber, caster and impacts toe), the cam bolt is rotated. Moving the forward cam bolt such that the front of the a-arm goes out mostly gets you more negative camber, but also decreases caster and will cause a large toe in. Moving the rear cam bolt such that the rear of the a-arm goes out mostly gets you more caster, but also increases negative camber and will also cause some toe in. On the rear toe goes out when you move the concentric bolts out as the rear tie rod is behind the wheel vice in front.
At this point, your only real option is to get the car realigned then mark the concentric bolts.
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C66 Racing #66 NASA ST2, SCCA T2
AMSOIL Dealer (Forum Vendor)
AMSOIL Ordering Information (Retail sales using reference #1206638 benefit the forum.)
AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program (Members buy at Wholesale - a savings of about 25%)
AMSOIL Catalog
08-19-2012, 09:18 AM
#11
Safety Car
Although its possible a tie rod end came lose, almost certainly your a-arm concentric bolts have shifted which will change toe, camber and caster. Most guys that race mark their concentric bolts with something like nail polish for this reason. I check mine after every track session.
The concentric bolts are on the lower a-arms where the a-arm bolts to the frame. To move the front or rear portion of the a-arm in or out (which changes camber, caster and impacts toe), the cam bolt is rotated. Moving the forward cam bolt such that the front of the a-arm goes out mostly gets you more negative camber, but also decreases caster and will cause a large toe in. Moving the rear cam bolt such that the rear of the a-arm goes out mostly gets you more caster, but also increases negative camber and will also cause some toe in. On the rear toe goes out when you move the concentric bolts out as the rear tie rod is behind the wheel vice in front.
At this point, your only real option is to get the car realigned then mark the concentric bolts.
The concentric bolts are on the lower a-arms where the a-arm bolts to the frame. To move the front or rear portion of the a-arm in or out (which changes camber, caster and impacts toe), the cam bolt is rotated. Moving the forward cam bolt such that the front of the a-arm goes out mostly gets you more negative camber, but also decreases caster and will cause a large toe in. Moving the rear cam bolt such that the rear of the a-arm goes out mostly gets you more caster, but also increases negative camber and will also cause some toe in. On the rear toe goes out when you move the concentric bolts out as the rear tie rod is behind the wheel vice in front.
At this point, your only real option is to get the car realigned then mark the concentric bolts.
That is what most shops do not do and why it shifts
08-19-2012, 11:53 AM
#12
Le Mans Master
1. Air up the tires.
2. Park on flat ground.
3. Straighten steering wheel.
4. Get a laser level, carpenters level and two 2x4's.
5. Use the above tools to check the thrust angle at each wheel to determine which eccentric bolt has slipped (one will be massively different than it's opposite).
6. Jack up corner that's wrong and turn eccentrics until toe is close to zero (measured with wheel straight and car back on ground).
7. Drive to alignment shop.
8. Mark eccentrics and bolts with white out or sharpie after it's fixed so you don't have to go through all this again.
Tools:
Checking toe:
2. Park on flat ground.
3. Straighten steering wheel.
4. Get a laser level, carpenters level and two 2x4's.
5. Use the above tools to check the thrust angle at each wheel to determine which eccentric bolt has slipped (one will be massively different than it's opposite).
6. Jack up corner that's wrong and turn eccentrics until toe is close to zero (measured with wheel straight and car back on ground).
7. Drive to alignment shop.
8. Mark eccentrics and bolts with white out or sharpie after it's fixed so you don't have to go through all this again.
Tools:
Checking toe:
08-20-2012, 03:58 PM
#15
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
08-20-2012, 08:00 PM
#18
Safety Car
On my C4, the steering rack was slipping back and forth, causing that problem. just a tad it was slipping, with R- tires. Drove me crazy until I found the problem.
08-20-2012, 09:23 PM
#20
Le Mans Master
