Removing the roof off an FRC to do some work
#1
Burning Brakes
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Removing the roof off an FRC to do some work
I'm planning on caging my FRC this winter, I will do all the work. My plan is to take the roof off the car to make the whole job easier. Removing the roof looks pretty simple, but what are guys doing to re-attach it? I could just use structural epoxy to re-attach it, but I'd rather leave it removable for any future mods/maintenance. Anyone got pictures of how it's done?
#2
I kept mine simple to make it removable and just bolted it back on using the factory hardware. I will say though taking the roof off looked easy, but it really was a pain in the *** with all the glue GM used.
#4
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Here are some selected posts from my build thread on NASAforums. The roof is held in place by the 5 OEM brackets (2 front and 3 across the rear) in addition to 3 tabs I had added to the cage to make up for the lack of any adhesive holding the roof to the now-gone b-pillar. There is one on each side coming up off of the area where I cut the b-pillar and one in the center top on the main hoop that bolts to the roof using the hole already in the roof panel for the headliner push-pin. I just put a nutsert in that hole. Can't get crazy with the torque because it's a nutsert in SMC, but you can get it plenty tight. Have had it caged since April 2011 and have had no issues with roof stress, movement, etc. If you have any questions let me know and I'll PM you my cell phone.
Originally Posted by Cobra4B
Roll cage time... door guttage, fuel tank removal, and roof removal happening.
Originally Posted by Cobra4B
She's a convertible for the time being...
Originally Posted by Cobra4B
Roof panel trimming done.. much more room for the cage....
Originally Posted by Cobra4B
Cut the top layer of the floor out and gained 5/8" of headroom vs. the standard hardware that came with my Hardbar seat rail kit. The kit was designed to use with a stock floor and with the OEM carpet still in place. Car's ready to head in for the cage!
Originally Posted by Cobra4B
Now the real work begins... 20 days left until I have to head out to Road Atlanata.
Originally Posted by Cobra4B
Thanks to Mills for the tutelage, allowing me to use his spray gun, and doing the hard part of painting the cage itself.
So fresh and so clean...
So fresh and so clean...
Originally Posted by Cobra4B
Starting to look like a car again... doors reassembled/reinstalled and the roof set in place for now.
Figured out a clean way to mount to door handle rods and re-installed the weatherstripping where possible.
Fire bottle and pull cables mounted. Still need to run the actual lines
Nice and bright inside
Nascar bars are the width of a sheet of paper from the door shell.
Figured out a clean way to mount to door handle rods and re-installed the weatherstripping where possible.
Fire bottle and pull cables mounted. Still need to run the actual lines
Nice and bright inside
Nascar bars are the width of a sheet of paper from the door shell.
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Oh... as for the glue... it's horrible. I tried a hot cable saw to no avail. Ended up having my glass guy come over with his crazy assortment of sawzall blades and had him help me do it.
Getting the rest of the b-pillar bar off of the roof was a uber chore too. I had two buddies hold it while we took turns attacking it with a cable saw and lots of lubricant. I know I've seen the roof panel removed with the b-pillar left in place, but it must take forever to do it. Some of the early FRCs had water leaking issues and GM would fix them under warranty... I've seen the pics and read the OEM service guide which says to use a wire/cable say, but dang I don't see how you could get the room/leverage to do it with the roof on the car.
Getting the rest of the b-pillar bar off of the roof was a uber chore too. I had two buddies hold it while we took turns attacking it with a cable saw and lots of lubricant. I know I've seen the roof panel removed with the b-pillar left in place, but it must take forever to do it. Some of the early FRCs had water leaking issues and GM would fix them under warranty... I've seen the pics and read the OEM service guide which says to use a wire/cable say, but dang I don't see how you could get the room/leverage to do it with the roof on the car.
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Man those pictures are awesome, and really helpful. Don't know how I missed this in your NASA thread. B pillar is useless once there is a cage in there, it's just in the way.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the info.
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One thing I forgot to mention. If you have a very early build FRC you won't be able to get the quarter panels off with the roof on without cutting. You can't get to the forward two screws through the gap between the quarter and roof. When GM realized their error they started slotting those front two holes on the FRC quarters. In the old service manuals under quarter panel removal it actually told you to cut holes in the quarter panel to access those screws from the side with some pliers! It then directs you to the body work section and tells you to fill and paint! It's something like:
Step 1: Cut access holes
Step 2: Remove quarter panel
Step 3: Re-install panel
Step 4: Refer to body/paint section
Step 5: Use GM specific SMC filler to fill holes; perform body work
Step 6: Paint
Also, even if they are properly slotted they can be hard to remove as the roof adhesive will squish out and stick to them at the front. You just want to have all the other fasteners loose and wiggle the panel back and forth and it'll work itself out. I've only ever had 2001 Z06s, a coupe, and a vert so I've never dealt with one that I couldn't get the panel off of.
Step 1: Cut access holes
Step 2: Remove quarter panel
Step 3: Re-install panel
Step 4: Refer to body/paint section
Step 5: Use GM specific SMC filler to fill holes; perform body work
Step 6: Paint
Also, even if they are properly slotted they can be hard to remove as the roof adhesive will squish out and stick to them at the front. You just want to have all the other fasteners loose and wiggle the panel back and forth and it'll work itself out. I've only ever had 2001 Z06s, a coupe, and a vert so I've never dealt with one that I couldn't get the panel off of.
Last edited by Cobra4B; 08-23-2012 at 10:28 AM.
#12
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The best way (I've found) to cut through the glue on the B-pillar is to take a long (18") sawzall blade and then take it over to the grinder and give it more of a knife edge, you still want to keep the teeth though. So instead of having more of a squared off blade it's more knife like. This also works for the A-pillar but I used a smaller blade for my air saw and you have to bend the blade to get it between the top and the A-pillar, otherwise you end up cutting into the top.
Put the blade in the sawzall and get it in between the B-pillar and the roof (the nice thing about the longer blade is that you can get a little more bend out of it.) Once you start cutting the blade will want to gall up with adhesive once the blade gets hot, have a buddy spray silicone on the blade, it will cool the blade and help lubricate it at the same time. As your working try putting putty knifes or screwdrivers between the pillar and the hardtop as you work to give youself a little more room to work.
We tried using heat at first and that got us nowhere, once we did the sawzall and the silicone we had the roof off in an hour and a half.
Put the blade in the sawzall and get it in between the B-pillar and the roof (the nice thing about the longer blade is that you can get a little more bend out of it.) Once you start cutting the blade will want to gall up with adhesive once the blade gets hot, have a buddy spray silicone on the blade, it will cool the blade and help lubricate it at the same time. As your working try putting putty knifes or screwdrivers between the pillar and the hardtop as you work to give youself a little more room to work.
We tried using heat at first and that got us nowhere, once we did the sawzall and the silicone we had the roof off in an hour and a half.