dvandentop

anyone have any suggestions???

had to take the slave out to to fix a leaking bleeder line, that is fixed, now i cannot get the pedal pressure to come back, could it be a bad master now???

it falls straight to the floor no resistance at all.

followed the save procedure i did the 1st time and i got a good pedal, but now for this time i just flys down to the floor. The connection to the master from slave is nice and tight as well with the retainer clip.


, thanks

froggy47

Do you have the clutch pedal spring installed correctly?

VetteDrmr

Ran into this while repla the clutch in a friend's LS2 powered GTO. What happened was we couldn't move enough fluid to get the air out of the slave if we did the standard "push the pedal down, crack the bleed screw, tighten the bleed screw, repeat".

What we did was to crack the bleed screw, THEN push the pedal down, tighten, and repeat. Apparently this moved more fluid than the traditional way and we got a TON of air out of the system.

We went down the same "bad MC, bad replacment SC, bad this, bad that, etc.", but it ended up being just a bunch of air in the system.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

RX-Ben

It takes FOREVER to get pedal pressure, pump forever. Do you have a remote bleeder?

Painrace

Derek, put the Tick Performance master cylinder in. It will be one of the best investments you ever make. When we added fluid to mine bubbles started comming out of the feed hole. We waited until they stopped (not long) and started pumping. It took no time to get all the air out.

Good luck,

Jim

dfinke23

+1 on the Tick master. It's actually a Tilton master, Tick just makes the adapter. There are several bore options, larger bores flow more fluid and, depending on your gap, could spit the piston out of the slave; smaller ones may not fully disengage. Make sure you get the right one for your clutch, their standard .875 bore will not work on an RPS, I needed a .700.
Keep in mind, as the clutch wears and the plates get thinner,the fingers will actually move toward the TOB and the clutch will disengage sooner.

You should get the recommended gap from Katech on the LS9 and figure accordingly.

fatbillybob

Air in master

moespeeds

Pull it up manually, crack bleeder, push it down, repeat until you get pressure.

RX-Ben

as an aside, generally you bench bleed MCs before installing to avoid this. It is hard to do with the stock clutch setup b/c of the quick release/dry break ends and non-standard connection at the MC. Unless you changed to a -3AN setup at the MC port (there is an adapter available) and/or do away with the quick release connections, you will probably need to spend a bit of time getting the air out (unless you can figure out how to route a hose from the exit of the MC to the reservoir, like by cutting the QR off the hose). A mityvac might work well on the stock setup too.

dvandentop

yep didnt even take it out


thanks everyone for the suggestions i got a mighty vac loaner tool gonna try that 1st here and see what happens


will report my findings. and yes i have a remote bleeder

dvandentop

yep foot was getting sore last night from pulling it up LOL

dvandentop

good lord what a PITA cam in the house for a bit still effin around with it, get intermittent bubbles here and there. now allowing it to sit a few minutes then closing remote bleeder when pedal is down and then pumping it 5-10 times, then opening bleeder again, sometimes get bubbles sometimes dont,.


:argh:

dvandentop

dang mighty vac is not pulling any fluid when it has vaccum?? sorta strange??

froggy47

I would try a pressure bleed like Motiv, fabricate a cap with a hose fitting for pressure bottle.

dvandentop

yeah gonna have to get something like this i found in another thread

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...c-adapter.html

k24556

This might work if it is air:

Go to a farm supply and get a 20cc vaccination syringe (no needle needed, just the plastic syringe) They are about $1.50 ea.

Take the syringe to an auto parts store and get a small piece of black hose just fits over the place where the needle fits.

Cut a short piece of the hose as square as you can (about 3/8" long and slip it over the needle end of the syringe.

Fill the syringe with fresh brake fluid. Play doctor and expel the air from the syringe.

have a buddy stand by to open the bleeder fitting.

Put the syringe with seal you made over the hole in the bottom of the clutch resevoir make sure there is some fluid in the reservoir as well.

use the syringe to pressurize the system. You will be surprised, but you can get 10-15 psi this way. Be careful not to push down too hard. the clutch reservoir is only held with two screws. Put your other hand under the reservoir to support it while you are pushing down to make a seal.

While making pressure, have your buddy open the bleeder. You should get air out that way.

froggy47

Yeah, I like that. And the farm syringe too.

What I did on my 95 M3 was mount the slave to the hose line (of the car) and not bolt it into place. Then I bled it hanging there with a pressure bleeder (one man). I was able to point the bleed screw "up" & air went out easier.

Then bolt it up into place & done.

Obviously different slave but just throw it out there so ideas can percolate.

You'll nail it.

Trouble is overall volume is so much smaller than brakes I think it makes it harder.

dvandentop

tried all of the above and still no luck.

i have verified the master cylinder to the actuator rod is connected properly but i even went ahead and tore out the slave again and have it hooked up under the car and still no luck with bleeding.

even with the slave disconnected and the hose from the master wide open when i pressed down i still got no fluid flow even when doing the pressure bleed from the master resevoir.


did the master collapse or something???

VetteDrmr

Ok, let's take a step back. I'm assuming the open end of the MC hose is the end that pins into the slave.

If so, then use the old pump priming method. Open end, push and hold the clutch all the way down. Thumb over the end, pull the pedal up. That should suck fluid through the MC and the hose.

Assuming that works, you should get fluid through the hose pretty quickly.

Or, could it be as simple as a kinked hose between the fluid reservoir and the MC itself?

Hope some of this helps, and good luck!
Mike

dvandentop

yes the open end is the one that pins into the slave.

no kinked hose between the master and slave that i could tell.
will double check again tomorrow.

i do know when i was trying to bleed before i posted anything that i thought i had the master hose and actuator rod connected with the hydraulics but i did not have it clipped all the way. Now i know for sure it is together.

sucks this is the last thing holding me up before getting my car back on the road after the blown motor

could be possible small leak somewhere in master hoses who knows gonna check with dealer tomorrow to see if they have one in stock.

i knew i shoulda had that tick master overnighted like i was going to order last night