moespeeds

Just a heads up, check those suckers! Lost a bolt out of the FR hub at Thunderbolt this weekend, causing me to lose the brakes going into turn one. Scary but I got through it unscathed. Turns out they were all just hand tight with antiseize on the threads. From now on whenever I have a wheel off I'm gonna stick my head back there and check them!

Daffy2

I had the bolts loosen up on the one of the rear hubs on my Fiero. It made it handle very squirrely and unpredictable. In my case, it also ruined the bearing. Now, I always use loctite on hub bolts.

-Tim

sperkins

Who installed it?

RX-Ben

nord locks are a good idea on these, as well as ditching the stock torx fasteners.

moespeeds

I don't know who installed them, the car came with SKFs in the front, and I never checked them before. This weekend I'm going to replace all 3 bolts with cap screws and safety wire them.

waddisme

I just repl both fronts on mine with stock torx and loctite. I did read where the red loctite breaks down after ~400*. I was a little concerned about that as there is plenty of heat around that area.

moespeeds

Cap heads and safety wire is a good bet. I won't **** on torx bolts, I've stripped too many of those things and it's not like you can get the bits just anywhere.

Cobra4B

I used Hardbar's bolt kit and nordlocks when I installed mine. Torqued to around 70 ft/lbs. If using OEM bolts it's red loc-tite and 96 ft/lbs.

I think a lot of the issues is that it can be hard to torque those bolts to that spec with the spindle off of the car so most just get it tight thinking it's ok. Then the flexing/stress on the hub allows them to come loose over time.

I check the upper two on each hub (lower is blocked by the lower BJ stud) as part of my track weekend check over.

moespeeds

Yeah I gotta take the hub off this weekend to get to those lower bolts. I want to install ARP studs anyway so it's fine. Any advice on getting that hub off? I already see that I need the spreader tool.

taken19

It may be the antisieze that caused this. That's what it does - allows for easy removal as the coefficient of friction drops significantly with it's application. There are very few threads that I remember putting antisieze on for our cars (spark plugs are all I can think of).

It's good you caught it before it caught you (into the wall...). Thanks for the heads up as well, it may help others add one more thing to their checklist before going on the track.

trackboss

All good ideas. I always use a paint marker on anything important and mark a witness line. A quick glance easily reveals if a fastener has rotated.

stevensa

I properly torqued mine and marked them with a paint stick so that I can check them before each track day with a quick glance.

stevensa

Haha, beat me to it!

trackboss

Ya, I used to nut/bolt between every session when I was racing prior to using witness marks. It just frees up so much time when you're a one man operation to deal with more important things. The one single time I ever had a loose fastener on something important was also the one time I had someone else do some work on my car. Luckily I discovered it after practice that day cause it was something that could have created a huge problem to put it lightly. Now, in addition to the marks I even stamp the torque specs next to some fasteners so it's stupid simple to work them when needed.

mrm1149

A simple but Excellent tip

mgarfias

This is where I hate the fact that our cars are all metric. If they were standard, I'd just buy some appropriate AN bolts predrilled for safety wire and call it good.

Soloontario

Can you tell my more about the hardbar kit. Doesn't seem like a lot of room at the bottom for a normal bolt before hitting the ball joint.