C5Z: C5 front calipers on all 4 corners
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
C5Z: C5 front calipers on all 4 corners
I have been reading through multiple threads about brake bias and how the electronic braking system works on the later C5's. Even after this I am still unsure on how it works. Right now I am running C5 front calipers and rotors on all four corners of the car.
With that said my plan is to use this setup along with ht-14 pads in the front and ht-10 in the rear for my next track day coming up next month.
My question is if anyone has advice or experience for this setup for HPDE/track days.
Also as information I am running a square set of 295 Hoosier R6's.
Latest thread I read through:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...-pads-etc.html
With that said my plan is to use this setup along with ht-14 pads in the front and ht-10 in the rear for my next track day coming up next month.
My question is if anyone has advice or experience for this setup for HPDE/track days.
Also as information I am running a square set of 295 Hoosier R6's.
Latest thread I read through:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...-pads-etc.html
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
Well would anyone elaborate why they feel it is useless.
I am about to change my brake lines and this would be the perfect time to change the rear calipers back to stock.
Thanks for the help
I am about to change my brake lines and this would be the perfect time to change the rear calipers back to stock.
Thanks for the help
#5
Front Calipers
I have front calipers on all four corners on my 2001 coup.
I run a few autocrosses, high speed events, and a track day fun event.
This system works flawlessly and it works well.
I don't have much experience with trying various pad compounds.
Hope this helps.
Roger T
I run a few autocrosses, high speed events, and a track day fun event.
This system works flawlessly and it works well.
I don't have much experience with trying various pad compounds.
Hope this helps.
Roger T
#6
Team Owner
how much braking does the rear do? Piston volume is another concern. I have front rotors on the rear with WWSL 4 piston rear calipers.
#8
Team Owner
#9
Drifting
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 1,822
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Extras weight with zero benefit and as John said extra piston volume.
The extra weight should be self explanatory.
The extra volume would be beneficial if you could take advantage of it or needed it but you can't without some significant redistribution of weight within the car! Basically you need to have a 49%/51% instead of 52%/48% front to rear distribution.
Bottom line you gained nothing and now have a longer brake pedal because you have to move more brake fluid in order to get your brake pads to move the same distance.
Save the weight and go back to the cheaper pads. They still last at least twice as long as the fronts will.
The extra weight should be self explanatory.
The extra volume would be beneficial if you could take advantage of it or needed it but you can't without some significant redistribution of weight within the car! Basically you need to have a 49%/51% instead of 52%/48% front to rear distribution.
Bottom line you gained nothing and now have a longer brake pedal because you have to move more brake fluid in order to get your brake pads to move the same distance.
Save the weight and go back to the cheaper pads. They still last at least twice as long as the fronts will.
#10
Melting Slicks
I run them on the rear with a 365MM brembo kit up front seems to work really well so far. I do however run a Doug Rippie Master, I can't believe how good my pedal stays now, it's always right there and firm
#11
Drifting
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 1,822
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#12
Team Owner
Thing I like by what I did is one rotor size and one pad size. Light two piece thinner rotor in rear would be nice. Plus you have no ebrake with fronts on rear.
#13
Pro
Thread Starter
I am thinking I will change back to the stock setup as I do not want any unexpected happenings when i am back at Sebring.
As for the above, I have not noticed a longer pedal and I know that in its current configuration it slows faster.
It has much more force than stock, and when i really lay into the brakes the fronts lock up and not the rears. Also, I have noticed that the car stays flatter under hard braking and does not dive as much.
The only down side I have found, which I cannot pinpoint the cause, is at my last AutoX during a run the first time I stabbed the brakes, the pedal was harder than normal and did not travel far at all, and almost immediately after it dropped down to its normal level and begun to slow the car. This really threw me for a curve, and it happened once more that day. Dont know what it is from, but it never happened with the stock setup. With that said i will change back to stock because i do not want this happening on the track when i am trying to slow from 140mph-60mph...........
As for the above, I have not noticed a longer pedal and I know that in its current configuration it slows faster.
It has much more force than stock, and when i really lay into the brakes the fronts lock up and not the rears. Also, I have noticed that the car stays flatter under hard braking and does not dive as much.
The only down side I have found, which I cannot pinpoint the cause, is at my last AutoX during a run the first time I stabbed the brakes, the pedal was harder than normal and did not travel far at all, and almost immediately after it dropped down to its normal level and begun to slow the car. This really threw me for a curve, and it happened once more that day. Dont know what it is from, but it never happened with the stock setup. With that said i will change back to stock because i do not want this happening on the track when i am trying to slow from 140mph-60mph...........
#14
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2006
Location: Phoenix Arizona
Posts: 7,251
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
14 Posts
I am thinking I will change back to the stock setup as I do not want any unexpected happenings when i am back at Sebring.
As for the above, I have not noticed a longer pedal and I know that in its current configuration it slows faster.
It has much more force than stock, and when i really lay into the brakes the fronts lock up and not the rears. Also, I have noticed that the car stays flatter under hard braking and does not dive as much.
The only down side I have found, which I cannot pinpoint the cause, is at my last AutoX during a run the first time I stabbed the brakes, the pedal was harder than normal and did not travel far at all, and almost immediately after it dropped down to its normal level and begun to slow the car. This really threw me for a curve, and it happened once more that day. Dont know what it is from, but it never happened with the stock setup. With that said i will change back to stock because i do not want this happening on the track when i am trying to slow from 140mph-60mph...........
As for the above, I have not noticed a longer pedal and I know that in its current configuration it slows faster.
It has much more force than stock, and when i really lay into the brakes the fronts lock up and not the rears. Also, I have noticed that the car stays flatter under hard braking and does not dive as much.
The only down side I have found, which I cannot pinpoint the cause, is at my last AutoX during a run the first time I stabbed the brakes, the pedal was harder than normal and did not travel far at all, and almost immediately after it dropped down to its normal level and begun to slow the car. This really threw me for a curve, and it happened once more that day. Dont know what it is from, but it never happened with the stock setup. With that said i will change back to stock because i do not want this happening on the track when i am trying to slow from 140mph-60mph...........
#15
Pro
Thread Starter
welcome to ICE MODE. That happens when the rear tires slow down faster than the front tires and the computer thinks your on an icy road. Happened to me a few times on a very hot road tracks... it sux! had a badass offtrack adventure once. Even happens on the Porsche, they tuned it out on the some of the Gt Porsches. CANNOT be tuned out of the vette
#16
E-brake!
I have normal pedal.
Going from one smaller diameter rear caliper piston to two, larger diameter front caliper pistons increases hydrolic pressure to the brake pads.
Car brakes flatter with little or no nose dive.
I know no downside.
Hope this helps.
Roger T
#17
Pro
Thread Starter
I used C6 Z51 13" rear rotors and retained the e-brake.
I have normal pedal.
Going from one smaller diameter rear caliper piston to two, larger diameter front caliper pistons increases hydrolic pressure to the brake pads.
Car brakes flatter with little or no nose dive.
I know no downside.
Hope this helps.
Roger T
I have normal pedal.
Going from one smaller diameter rear caliper piston to two, larger diameter front caliper pistons increases hydrolic pressure to the brake pads.
Car brakes flatter with little or no nose dive.
I know no downside.
Hope this helps.
Roger T
#18
Melting Slicks
welcome to ICE MODE. That happens when the rear tires slow down faster than the front tires and the computer thinks your on an icy road. Happened to me a few times on a very hot road tracks... it sux! had a badass offtrack adventure once. Even happens on the Porsche, they tuned it out on the some of the Gt Porsches. CANNOT be tuned out of the vette
Last edited by z06801; 01-24-2013 at 10:06 AM.
#19
C6 rotor?
As a side note, there have been some "nay-sayers" as I did this project.There are a lot of "theary" wonks out there. I thought I knew what I was doing and, as it turns out, I did.
As for tires, I have raced on true road-racing Continental slicks as well as R6 Hoosier Street legal slicks and Bridgestone and Kumho high performance street tires. Have autocrossed, run high-speed events, road courses.I have gotten Fast Time of the event on both kinds of tires. Now I am ready to up-grade brake pads.
This caliper up-grade has worked flawlessly and it has worked very
well.