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Advice on Starting - Engine Hasn't Run in 4 Months

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Old 02-23-2013, 12:27 PM
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argonaut
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Default Advice on Starting - Engine Hasn't Run in 4 Months

My C5 hasn't been started since Nov. Any advice on starting it. Should I just crank it up and not worry or is there a recommend procedure to avoid what is going to be a very "dry" start?
Old 02-23-2013, 12:55 PM
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CHJ In Virginia
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I do not know of any special method for a dry start. Just check fluid levels and crank it up. Don't rev above an idle till the pressure comes up - 3 to 4 seconds or so.
Old 02-23-2013, 01:33 PM
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:56 PM
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I would assume that the battery has been disconnected or it was on a battery maintainer? It seems like most C5 owners will report their battery going dead if the car sits for just a month without being started.

Just make sure the oil level is at the full mark and that the coolant reservoir is at the COLD mark. Once the engine starts, expect some water coming out of the exhaust. With the car not running for that time, any moisture tht was left in the exhaust system will have condensed and water will pool in the mufflers.

There may also be some condensate in the block so it would be a good idea to drive the car for a good 20-30 minutes to get everything hot enough so any condensation will be removed. Take it easy for the first 5-10 minutes so the trans and diff fluids get a chance to warm up. Don't forget to check the tire pressures before driving. Tires will gradually lose air over that time and they could be as much as 3-5psi low.
Old 02-23-2013, 03:32 PM
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VetteDrmr
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Originally Posted by argonaut
My C5 hasn't been started since Nov. Any advice on starting it. Should I just crank it up and not worry or is there a recommend procedure to avoid what is going to be a very "dry" start?
Not really, my experience has been that you can't build up much oil pressure with just the starter. Just get the battery fully charged, maybe cycle the key on and off (not going to start) 3-4 times to ensure the fuel rail is pressurized, and twist the key. Should fire right up. Put the oil pressure on the DIC, you should see oil pressure within 10 seconds or so (which feels like forever!).

Assuming everything starts normally, get her up to temperature and take her for at least a 15-20 minute drive. That should go quite a ways towards drying things out.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Old 02-23-2013, 05:10 PM
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Pull the fuel pump fuse and with a battery charger on the battery, crank the engine 10 seconds on, 20 seconds off to build oil pressure. I do this whenever my C5Z sits for over a month. You won't see oil pressure until you release the key, but you will get a good 25 psi this way on the digital readout. Slip the fuse back in and fire it up. Won't take more than a few cycles. I have always done this on every car that sits.

I would drive it long enough to get to 220 oil temp. The longer you can drive it the better.

Last edited by ZedO6; 02-23-2013 at 05:12 PM.
Old 02-24-2013, 06:22 AM
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stevensa
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Originally Posted by ZedO6
Pull the fuel pump fuse and with a battery charger on the battery, crank the engine 10 seconds on, 20 seconds off to build oil pressure. I do this whenever my C5Z sits for over a month. You won't see oil pressure until you release the key, but you will get a good 25 psi this way on the digital readout. Slip the fuse back in and fire it up. Won't take more than a few cycles. I have always done this on every car that sits.

I would drive it long enough to get to 220 oil temp. The longer you can drive it the better.
I do the same. You will be just fine starting it up without doing the above, I just hate hearing the extra noises when the car hasn't been ran in a long time, especially since I have a cammed engine.
Old 02-24-2013, 06:49 AM
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Thanks for the responses guys. My biggest concern is I have a Dewitt's rad with EOC and it takes longer to build pressure than stock. I like the idea of pulling fuel pump fuse, any idea which fuse that is?
Old 02-24-2013, 03:49 PM
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Agree with ZED. I also may warm the oil in a crankcase on some of my engines if I am forced to run them in cold temps. Just a simple painters lamp with a 100w bulb sitting under the oilpan will help. On my big equiptment that doesn't have a block heater I'll point a torpedo heater towards the block. I try to be aware of the cold oil temp. My one concrete garage acts like an icebox and will stay 20degrees days after the outside weather has warmed up to 40deg.
Nothing better than the prelube described by Zed , warming it if you can especially if you are running heavy weight race-oil like 15-50.
Old 02-24-2013, 05:38 PM
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I used to worry about such things until I read my engine manual for a cessna airplane. "If the engine doesn't build oil pressure within 30 seconds turn the engine off." ......I don't worry so much about a dry start any more.
Old 02-24-2013, 05:56 PM
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4 months is just extended parking. Just turn the key. We do it every spring in the snow belt without any problem or concern. Been doing it on my own cars since 1978.
Old 02-24-2013, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by argonaut
Thanks for the responses guys. My biggest concern is I have a Dewitt's rad with EOC and it takes longer to build pressure than stock. I like the idea of pulling fuel pump fuse, any idea which fuse that is?
I pull the relay in the underhood fuse box by the battery in my C5z. I believe it is #35. Double check on the bottom of the fuse box cover on the sticker diagram.
Old 02-24-2013, 11:32 PM
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Watch you don't burn up the starter.

Old 02-25-2013, 08:40 AM
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Scooter70
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Originally Posted by Lawdogg
4 months is just extended parking. Just turn the key. We do it every spring in the snow belt without any problem or concern. Been doing it on my own cars since 1978.
Same here. As long as the battery is strong enough it will fire up and build pressure in a second or so.

Even on initial build of an LS motor, building pressure before firing isn't necessary or recommended like the old days where you pulled the distributor and put a drill down the hole.
Old 02-25-2013, 01:00 PM
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I am surprised that, with so many owners putting their Vettes away for the winter, nobody has come up with a winterize procedure the way we used to do with power boats in New England.

Drain the cooling system, "fog" the engine, all that.

I suppose the Vettes are (mostly) put away in heated garages, where the boats went in unheated barns or just left outdoors with a cover.

Old 02-25-2013, 02:16 PM
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I recently pulled the oil pan from an LS6 that had been sitting on my engine stand for 11 months. When I pulled the windage tray, there were still oil droplets hanging from the cam lobes. I wouldn’t worry about it and just fire it up.

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